bjytech

Good luck with your conversion sounds like a interesting project, here is a diagram I have from the good folks here, starting on page 38 is the transmission specific wiring. 97 Cummins ram wiring diagrams pdf I'm getting ready to do a 12v swap into a 3rd gen truck with a 48re and am planning on trying to use the ecm and tcm to run that transmission, it may be a bit of work but I think I can manage it.

For a shop to do it with pulling and installing the motor, all genuine Cummins parts, new oil pump, water pump pistons, block and head machine work, etc it's not that far off, maybe a little high but right around $10k parts and labor is my experience doing them.

Have you cleaned out the axle vent? The axle vent being clogged is one of the main things I find that cause pinion seals to leak.

Delivery valve holder is what you seem to be referring to, any fuel shop should be able to get them from Bosch.

It all depends on what governor it has on it really, but the majority of the ones in off-road equipment use a AG governor instead of the automotive governor you would want.

I would start by tightening the star wheel up till it gets to where it doesn't smoke at full throttle and gives good throttle response as the boost comes up, if once you get the smoke tuned out it seems like it needs to fuel quicker to full throttle you'll need to put a softer spring in with the statement. Bumping your timing up to 15 or 16 degrees would help too since you have bigger injectors now. What's your boost get up to now?

Back when I did the head gasket on my truck I installed mighty diesel head bolts and used their recommend torque procedure and I never had a problem with them, they kept everything together nicely at 18° timing seeing 50psi+ of boost and making just under 500hp and they held the 4 times I pulled a sled down the track with them. The first time I pulled was what caused me to have to do my headgasket job... it lifted the head a bit on the stock bolts at factory torque

Honestly that spot is notorious for leaking on the 12v's and is 99% of the time just the head gasket itself. Sounds like you have a solid plan for doing it just pull the head and get it checked and resurfaced if it needs it.

Sorry it took me so long to post a update, been really busy working. I went and looked at everything on this truck today and the fuel pump was working as it should, and the truck idled fine but sputtered from a lack of fuel with any throttle, he didn't know when the fuel filter was last changed so I got one and put it in and she runs good now, problem solved. I also checked for AC noise from the alternator while I was there to make sure it wasn't doing anything and it was less than .06v

Thanks for all the great input guys, I'll call him today and get some more info and see about going to check the truck out myself.

I had a guy call me today that has been having some trouble with his 24v and I wanted to see what the experts here have to say about it. Here is a rundown of what I know about his issues. A few months back he told me he was having a dead pedal issue and the shop the truck was at replaced the apps and it still did it so then they ended replacing the vp44 and lift pump. Now the current problem he has is the lift pump runs when you turn the key on but then once the truck is started it seems the lift pump shuts off and the engine will start stumbling and smoking. I'm almost thinking it could be a problem in the ECM but I really hope for him that it's not.

Price seems a little high to me unless it is in really nice shape. Also for leathermaneod 5 hole injectors are the standard on 12v's there are some guys making 7 hole injectors for them but the majority of the injectors are 5 hole.

PJ is a good guy to deal with, I got a trans from him when mine had a washer go through the 5th gears. It was cheaper for me to get one from him than for me to buy just the parts to fix mine, plus since I'm local he dropped it off to me that night and picked up my core.

Top covers will swap right over just probably have to swap shifters aswell, The problem could also be caused by the synchro keys under the sliding clutch for 3rd/4th. about 2 years ago I had trouble with my nv4500 where it would stick in reverse and I found that my problem was the 5th/reverse synchro keys.

From what I've found on this camera it is only does VGA (640x480) and does NOT do 1.3mp or 720P like it claims where there getting the claim of it being a HD camera I don't know.

Not sure if its possible to make the gauge in the dash work that way or not, but if I remember right the oil pressure sender on the engine is just a pressure switch so it is unable to give a real pressure reading.

Nice work! I should do this to my headlights, I have aftermarket ones but the reflector that goes in front the the bulb broke off in the passenger side and it doesn't light up the road at all anymore, I'll have to put my stock housings back in and do some tinkering with the aftermarket ones. Do you have a part number for the projector assembly you used?

With you still having stock injectors I would say its sucking air somewhere, most common placed are the fuel heater and the formed hose going from the fuel heater to the lift pump and the steel tube going into the sender on top of the fuel tank. I had a similar problem to what you are having only mine would only do it in free rev and 1st gear, once it got some load it would clear up. For me it started after I went to 5x.014 (roughly 100% over stock) injectors and after some hard thinking about how everything works etc. I decided it was due to lack of fuel after I eliminated any possibility of air in the system, so I put bigger delivery valves in my pump and that was the end of the problem for me.

On my old truck I had the vacuum chamber rot out on the actuator so I made my own posi-lock cable setup, I don't think I even spent $40 for all the parts. I used a locking control cable from napa part # 731-1104 then I drilled and taped the actuator housing for a compression fitting that I ran the cable through, then I drilled another hole in the shift fork for the cable to go through with a cable lock on the back side. I also had to put a spring on the cable inside the housing so it would disengage when the cable was pushed back in. I used to have pictures of it all but I can't seem to find them now.

I didn't either, I was thinking it would make around 380-400, but it surprised me. It's possible that it can make even more too because each pull I did the dyno operator added more load but you only got 3 pulls on it since it was a dyno day and they had a lot of trucks to get through.

Just thought I'd mention it but since the update I have to ctrl+F5 for my browser to actually fetch the up to date pages of the site, if I don't it look as though there has been no activity here since my last visit.

Oh right just noticed signatures aren't here yet, updated first post with my specs.

Ran my truck on a dyno today and it impressed me how much power it put down, I got 3 pulls and they added load to the dyno each pull, here's the results from the last pull I did. Anyone else ever run their truck on a dyno? Truck specs: 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 63/67/12 HX35 turbo 5x.014 DAP injectors DDP .024 delivery valves 4K GSK 17° timing DPS 3 piece exhaust manifold 4" Turbo back exhaust No fuel plate, AFC tuned, custom in-cab on the fly fuel control NV4500 KY clutch 3850# dual disk ceramic clutch 3.54 gears, LSD 285/75/R16 nitto Terra grapplers on 16x8 ion 171 wheels Glowshift 3-in-1 gauge (Boost, Pyro, & Fuel press.)

No snubber at the moment on the fuel pressure sender, I was using a banjo bolt with a snubber built in on the old filter housing, I was meaning to move the fuel pressure sender and add a snubber but I totally forgot about it, but I'm not having any pulsation issues with it either surprisingly. I'll have to take a look at the 90 going into the injection pump but I haven't had any noticeable issue with it rubbing the throttle linkage.

Nice! I got a great deal on one just like that only for a 12v a while back.