bjytech

I tried leaving mine in one piece when I did my exhaust and I didn't figure out any way of doing it. I ended up making two cuts in my stock system, one a little behind the down pipe and another just before it goes up over the rear axle. Then it came right out.

A quick google search returns that pin 20 gives a delayed 12v source after throttle goes to idle.

I've used them quite a few times, they work just just fine. I normally use the preformed ones but that's mainly just because it's what the local parts place stocks.

Yes, you would use 4in. clamps.

The "muffler replacement" is just a piece of exhaust pipe instead of a muffler. For clamps the system should come with all that you will need. However, they will be the U-bolt style clamps and I don't care for them much and recommend exhaust band clamps like the picture below, any heavy truck parts place should have them in stock. Off the top of my head I think it would use 5 clamps.

I did a patent search on the patent number thats on their "ECO 4" model so here it is. http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsearch-bool.html&r=1&f=G&l=50&co1=AND&d=PTXT&s1=5197446.PN.&OS=PN/5197446&RS=PN/5197446 and scans of the actual paper documents of it: http://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?Docid=05197446&homeurl=http%3A%2F%2Fpatft.uspto.gov%2Fnetacgi%2Fnph-Parser%3FSect1%3DPTO2%2526Sect2%3DHITOFF%2526p%3D1%2526u%3D%25252Fnetahtml%25252FPTO%25252Fsearch-bool.html%2526r%3D1%2526f%3DG%2526l%3D50%2526co1%3DAND%2526d%3DPTXT%2526s1%3D5197446.PN.%2526OS%3DPN%2F5197446%2526RS%3DPN%2F5197446&PageNum=&Rtype=&SectionNum=&idkey=NONE&Input=View+first+page

Yep all you have to do is change the maxexhaustpressure variable value to whatever max pressure you want.

Our axles aren't really set up for hub piloted wheels, even the stock wheels are centered with the lugs. The 3500 trucks use hub pilot wheels but the 2500's don't

Cool to see this working on the turbo. I did some research and talked to a turbo guy and for what I'm doing a he351ve won't work to well. I would have really liked to put one on and tune it just for the fun of it but it would be to restrictive on the exhaust side for my plans. Plan was to mod a he351ve with a 63mm billet comp wheel and a 64mm turbine wheel but I guess they don't breath to well even with the vanes open so I'm sticking to my original plan of running a hx35 with a 63mm billet comp wheel 67mm turbine wheel with a 14cm hx40 exhaust housing.

I put a diamond eye 4" aluminized exhaust system on about 2 years ago and it still looks like new, and I must agree with Bill on the clamps, wherever I can I use the band style exhaust clamps like in the picture in the post above. I get them at the local heavy truck parts place and they are stainless and make taking the pipe apart so much easier if the need ever arises.

Put some power service 911 in the tank and change the fuel filters, you may have to change the filters a few times depending on how bad it is. And it really helps if you can get it inside somewhere and get some heat on it.

I do the same as Ed does, never had any problems with the handful of trucks I've done it on, when I tap the hole I have the engine off and just put a little grease on the tap. Even if you did get some shaving in the exhaust it won't hurt anything.

You are right, scrolling through this thread again I got thinking about just that. I was wrong in my first post about to much toe in, it would be toe out that would cause wear on the outside of the tire.

Chances are you either have to much toe in or a ball joint problem. Ball joints are easy to check just jack the truck up and pull the top and bottom of the tire in and out and watch to see if the ball joints move. To much toe in could either be bad adjustment or more likely bad end joints on the crossover linkage. but then again I would think if its was a toe problem both tires would be wearing. Toe in spec is around 3/16-1/8 of and inch.

Heres a picture of my truck with some mud on it after trying to pull my Dad's F-450 out of the woods with a load of firewood on it this past week. Didn't have any success pulling his truck out with mine since the mud was so smeary but I got just enough grip to get myself out of the woods. Ended up having to get the neighbors tractor to pull his truck out, even then it took some doing to get the F-450 unstuck.

I was just looking through the thread over on cummins forum and saw where BDubb'z had hooked the turbo speed sensor up to the arduino but did not get it to work, looking at the code he has for it I think it may be because he has the input for it in pin 2(digital) when it would need to be in one of the analog input pins instead.

I was looking over my notes/ideas that I had wrote down and there are 2 things that I thought I would bring up. First have you thought about using the turbo shaft speed sensor at all? It would be great to use as a safety to prevent any over speeding of the turbo, and could also be used to smooth out vane movement. Second comes from working on ISX's that have the he351ve's big brothers on them, the he451ve and he551ve, when you use the engine brake on a ISX with the electronic VGT you have 3 settings, for the "low" and "mid" settings it just uses the compression release solenoids on the valve train, but for the "high" setting it also uses the turbo and gradualy closes the vanes based on engine load, RPM and various other parameters. That being said most standalone controllers I have seen for the he351ve snap the vanes all the way closed for a engine brake setting but I was thinking that it would be better to close the vanes off more gradually instead of just snapping them closed, maybe have a setting so the turbo doesn't exceed x amount of boost while in engine brake mode or something like that. These are things I was planning to work out if I decide to get a he351ve and have a go at it so I though I would throw it out there as some food for thought.

Funny you should post this, I was just thinking last week about getting a holset vgt turbo to possibly put on my truck if I could work out some sort of controller using adruino, I only got as far as wrighting down ideas on paper though. Following to see how you get along.

Yes genuine holset parts are zero balanced so, compressor wheel is balanced by itself and turbine wheel and shaft are balanced together. its perfectly safe to take the compressor wheel off and put it back on and not have to worry about balancing.

Get that boost guage installed and see what kind of boost it will build, on a stock truck with a working waste gate you should build about 18-20 psi on a hard WOT pull.

I have a bluetooth OBDII adapter I use with torque pro on my truck when I pull to see and record IAT and RPM, I also use it on any vehicles I need to read codes from. It works great for me. Tip: when looking at OBDII bluetooth adapters make sure you get one that supports version 1.5 or higher, there are a lot of chinese knockoffs that are only version 1.4 and can have problems with some vehicles/apps.

Might as well join in.

Have you checked your diff oil for metal flakes or anything? if your CAD is fine it almost sounds like the spiders could be toast.

If it has DEF it has a DPF as well. With the DEF SCR system the exhaust goes something like this: DOC-->DPF-->Decomposition chamber--->SCR catalyst DOC = Diesel Oxidation Catalyst DPF = Diesel Particulate Filter Decomposition chamber is where the DEF is injected and the SCR catalyst is where a reaction occurs with the DEF infused exhaust gasses to turn them into nitrogen and water vapor. Some systems(like on a ISX) also have a dosing injector to inject fuel right into the exhaust before the DOC for running active regenerations. I have a video explaining this all somewhere, I'll add it to this post when I find it. Here's the video I was talking about.

It shouldn't take but an hour to replace if they get right to it and don't have any problems. Yes that would be the pitman arm, a idler arm is used on the 2wd trucks, its just like a pitman arm but its free turning(not attached to a gear box) you can see some pictures here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8717-steering-upgrade-possibilities-for-2wd/?p=94198