Alexio Auditore

Big shot in the dark but.... My truck I've noticed being more "pingy" at times, and its caught my attention to where I open the hood to investigate. I grabbed the alternator brakcet( I was just checking whatever could be loose) and sure enough, it was much quieter. Let it go, its louder. Again, a shot in the dark, and it may not even be the noise your talking about. I'd describe it as rattly or pingy

So it seems this is the summer where all the problems start showing, leaking p.s. pump, passenger axel seal leak, front brakes, and now tie rod ends. Not enough time in a day to adress it, but will be making time here pretty quick. So I know there is a 4th gen conversion I can do for the t style setup, but is it worth it? I still have 16s on my truck, so I'd have to grind off a knuckle or two for it to fit right? What's the price for one and who would be a reputable vendor for it? And are there any problems to worry about with the 4th gen setup? Like recalls and such? Other wise I saw Luke's links has all four greasable ones I can install for about 255 bucks. I'm sure napa has some cheapy garbage, but I've about had it with cheap parts not lasting at all. (just replaced water pump again 2 years after already fixing it with a new one, not rebuilt, Napa brand(gates)) Still running 265s on my truck too, nothing oversized that would be hard on the front end. I would like to upgrade to 17s 4th gen wheels, but that's someday in the future.

Yea, sometimes it can run rough when it drops to 0, mine did sometimes, but many times you may not physically notice anything wrong with the truck even with the pressure dropping low, that is until your vp gives you the finger and quits working. Either your fuel pressure gauge is not working right, or it is and you have a problem that needs to be addressed ASAP. If it is reading properly and your fuel pressure is low to none, you most likely need a lift pump. Is yours stock or aftermarket? Better to spend around 500 dollars now on a aftermarket lift pump(dont replace with another stock one) than 1500+ on a lift pump and VP. While your at it, you might as well run ½ fuel lines from tank to vp when you change the lift pump.

Oh...... Excuse me, I'm just a little slow. I'll check it out and see if its clogged or not. It's just weird how the seal just started leaking, but it's got to start sometime. I've read of an external seal you can put on the end by the hub to keep dirt and crap out. Anybody reccomend that? Or just put a bit of gasket maker on the end when I button it up?

That's the cad right? I'm under the truck, I'm not seeing g anything coming off the axel that might be a vent tube of some sort.

Ok. I believe I do have the CAD system. Do our trucks have a vent for the front diff? Is it possibly a clogged vent can cause the seal to start pushing fluid through? If I did change it through the cad, if I lifted the truck on the passenger side(obviously), then do I even have to drain the fluid? Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.

Sounds a bit overwhelming. So both axels have to come out? Even though it's the passenger one that's only leaking? the seal in the housing, so it has to be knocked out from the other side basically? And a long piece of all thread, basically from One end of the truck to reach the seal on the other end? Probably just answered my own question, might as well replace both seals then.

Hey guys. So I went to get in my truck this morning for work, and noticed a small wet spot on the ground next to my passenger tire. Thought maybe the powersteering pump fluid made it's way over there since it's currently leaking, but it is coming right from the housing. How complicated is it to take it apart and replace the seal? Any special tools? Should I replace anything else while I'm at it? On another note, I've been noticing a slackness in my steering. It's not the wondering steering, it's like I turn my wheels a direction and it almost snaps back a little like there is some sort of play in the steering somewhere. It's not harsh, it just feels loose, I feel it through the steering wheel. Any input is appreciated. I think it's time to replace the track bar again, but it's not horribly loose either, but its lifetime warranty so might as well. Thanks

Do the ones from 1aauto come with the mounting bracket? The trail ridge ones?

A few people have bought these mirrors (without signal light). I just bought a set today after breaking mine. Theyre Power control (not folding) and heated. They are on sale for 188. https://www.1aauto.com/dodge-mirror-pair/i/trmrp00029?f=1111688&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsYrpmYmp4QIVkp6fCh0-Ng2cEAQYASABEgIHTvD_BwE I've heard Amazon sells them too, but not with the best reviews. Maybe just lower quality components. My current ones for example, the mirror lense shakes bad?

The vacuum leak or the vapor blow by? There shouldn't be a big difference in the blow by coming from your truck whether its warm or cold outside. it could just be more noticable at times, but if it's getting progressively worse, then it's either vacuum or cylinder/ring wear. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. First just check vacuum. You can get a gauge and test it easily that way. That's what I did, besides the obvious defaulting to defrost. But the gauge will help pin the leak a bit more easily too. I replaced the lines from pump to firewall, disconnected the line to the t case And put the gauge on again. Holds pressure forever. Then reconnected the line to t case, put it on the end where you can add more connections, tested it again, this time losing vacuum. So I know I have a leak between the new line and the 4wd system. How many miles are on your rig?

When you get into it in the morning, if the dial is on floors or face but its blowing from defrost vents, that's an easy way to tell (Before you turn your truck on)

Vacuum leak possibly? If the leak is small enough, it wont affect your controls for you vents. If it defaults to your defrost vent when the truck is off for a few minutes or longer, then you have a leak somewhere. Weird as it sounds, when it is cold, my truck seems to hold the vacuum better, still leaks though. I know it's in from the part where it goes down to the 4wd. And the mod just might be showing you how smokey it really was in the engine compartment. I can sit in my truck and I'll see some vapor wisping out from under the truck sometimes( with mod).its not too bad though.

A little late to the party, but I have the same thing after getting a new track bar from O'Reillys. The track bar they gave me I want to say was longer than the one i took off. Went to napa to compare theirs, same thing. I know it's off center because I get a lot of dirty water from the road kicked up on my passenger side window compared to drivers side( noticeably cleaner.) Been like this a few years, no lift on truck, no oversized tires, and my tires are wearing fine.

Didnt want to start a new thread, but I do have a question in regard to the grid heater. Soon the cold will be back and I don't have the ability to plug my truck in where I live. There are 2 grid heaters right? Can i just have one turned on? Less load on the alternator right?

Sounds good. So even if I am having some ac issues with throttle where its messing with the signal, the mechanical timbo will pretty much take care of that and it wont be an issue then?I mean that I wont have to keep re learning the throttle position for the ecm every couple weeks?

Another update and a question Update: after a week, the throttle issues came back. During this time, the mornings were cold enough to cause the grids to kick on. So I did a throttle reset by pulling battery cables and disconnected the grid heaters. Again, truck ran very smooth. About a week later, I started noticing some issues, but it didn't set on as quickly as before, probably because I disconnected the grids this time. It's been almost 3 weeks since I did a reset, and the throttle is back to being crappy. Question(s) If I'm having these issues now, is a timbo gonna do any good? It seems like an ac noise problem, but it test in the tolerable range If it is a ac noise issue, then does that mean .03 is to much for certain electronics on these trucks? My guess is the grids kicking on cause a much higher ac noise reading, and even though it's on for a short time, it could be enough over time to cause issues. Not just the grids, bit anytime I have a higher demand from the alternator (start up) it seems to be affecting the throttle in just a short time after a reset. This is all guessing, I'm not electrically inclined at all. Any help is appreciated. Thank you guys

I have a glowshift egt gauge that has started acting weird. I hate these gauges and will never buy another, but I'm curious if it is fried or if something is interfeering with it. It works normally, but when under light acceleration or maintaining constant speed, it pegs out at max temps. Once I let off the throttle, goes to current temperature, or if I'm more aggressive in acceleration, it returns to normal temp also. I'm horrible with electronics, so I need your help to determine if its failing or not. I've had other glowshift gauges in the past, all have failed, this is my last remaining one. The last one the needle just bounced everywhere, there was no consistency to it, which leads me to think this one is done too. Isspro will be my next egt gauge

How long do the oil filters last? Oil changes can go for 10k plus, but were the oil filters designed to last that long?

I thought I would give an update. Tuesday, my radiator cracked , on the plastic part on the side go figure, so I took it to a shop and they put a new one in, would have done it myself, but I work and needed it back asap, had to special order it from the auto parts store. I told the mechanic about my throttle issues, unfortunately, and of course, they couldn't get it to replicate itself. I got it back, and it ran perfect. Like it hasn't run so smooth in forever, I cant remember when. I asked if they did a re-learn on the apps, and the guy said he wasnt sure, didn't bother asking the mechanic what he did, but whatever. I'm confident the problem is the app sensor, but I'm gonna run it until it starts acting up. I want to say it may not start giving me problems until the grid heaters start being used again this fall. My ac noise is in the tolerable range, .03, but when The grids kick on, maybe it's a different story. I'll make sure to keep this updated as time progresses, either way, a timbo is going to be the best route in the end

Schaeffers 5w-40 full synthetic It's a 9000 mile oil, but I always change 5 to 6k miles. Been running that for the last 60k miles. She is at 245k miles and counting.

I remember hearing once that it goes out the quickest because its used the most. Both 3rd and 4th really. 4th only gives me a little grief when cold. On 3rd, I just shift a bit slower into it, let the rpms drop and put a little pressure on it, eventually it accepts it and slides in without grinding......usually. My grandfather in law takes off in third from a dead stop all the time in his cummins. I cringe everytime lol. It doesnt sound to good

Same with mine, but 3rd is the one that give me the most grief, especially when cold, never seems to want to go in smoothly.i cant say what the history of oils or how the previous owners drove it, but redline seemed to help make it smoother, especially on 3rd. Just my experience

Not to throw a wrench in this, but I've been using the red line synthetic gear oil for my nv5600. It's a gl4. I've got to change fluid in it this summer, probably 60k miles on it now, it works good, shifts well to, these transmissions are great but are shifting has always been a little difficult, red line helped but it's still picky. Anyone else have good luck with red line?

I tried the ecm wire trick, it didn't work. If ac noise is the cause, then .035 is not acceptable level, that's where it's at. So how can I test the ecm to see if it's the problem then?