Tractorman

I would think that this could very likely be the cause. If one side of the axle was bent upward, then it would show up as negative camber on both sides. - John

@smelonas, I didn't see anywhere in your post with information regarding year of your truck. Your signature shows 2007, but you mention VP44 in your post, so I assume your truck is a '98.5-'02 second generation. If your truck is a second generation with a VP44 injection pump, then your fuel pressure is normal for an OEM in-tank lift pump. With a stock engine, you will not harm the fuel pump. There is an internal vane pump inside the VP44 that supplies fuel flow to internal controls and to the 14 psi overflow valve. Just as long as you always have a positive VP44 inlet pressure, the VP44 will be adequately cooled. You need to talk to Grandpa again. I don't think the fuel is being shut off. I think he is experiencing the "dead pedal" symptom in which the engine goes directly to idle. It will feel like the engine died because all fueling stops except for idle. The dead pedal will usually last for about 5 to 20 seconds and then clear up on its own. If the engine truly does die, then the tachometer will go to zero. Not all VP44 trucks will read engine codes using the ignition key. I would try to get access to a quality code reader and check for codes again. A failing APPS will likely trigger a "dead pedal", but other things can cause this also. A failing APPS could also be related the TCC hunting, as well. - John

I assume that you are talking about a switch that manually controls torque converter clutch lockup. I don't have a video, but I think I can provide more information about how I used the switch than a video could provide. Coincidentally, my truck that had the mystery switch was also a '99 (with a stock automatic transmission and a stock fueled engine). My installation was simple - one relay and one momentary floor switch operated by my left foot. The floor switch was a durable, low profile switch that required very little pressure to operate, just the weight of my foot. A couple of helpful things to know: 1. A stock automatic transmission will only lock the converter in 3rd and 4th gear (overdrive). 2. A stock automatic transmission unlocks the converter during a shift and then relocks the converter after the shift. 3. The mystery switch does not lock up the converter. The mystery switch allows you to keep the converter locked up after the converter locks up on its own. This is important to know, otherwise you won't be able to maximize the benefits of the mystery switch. Behavior of the of torque converter lockup with mystery switch operation: 1. Fourth gear (overdrive), converter lockup, foot on mystery switch - converter will remain locked and transmission will stay in fourth gear (will not downshift) regardless of throttle position. When mystery switch is released, the transmission operation will return back to automatic mode. 2. Third gear (overdrive), converter lockup, foot on mystery switch - converter will remain locked and transmission will stay in third gear (will not downshift or upshift) regardless of throttle position. When mystery switch is released, the transmission operation will return back to automatic mode. Driving the truck using the mystery switch: Getting up to speed quickly from a stop - lock out overdrive (4th gear). Accelerate moderately until transmission shifts into third gear. Back off the throttle and let the converter lock up. As soon as the converter locks up, depress and hold the mystery switch and step into the throttle and continue to accelerate moderately. Pre select overdrive (the transmission will not shift). Continue accelerating to about 50 mph (this will be your shift point). Back off the throttle, release the mystery switch. You will feel the converter unlock, the transmission shift into fourth gear, and the converter relock. As soon as the converter relocks, depress and hold the mystery switch and accelerate moderately until you get to your desired speed. You can now release the mystery switch since the converter will stay locked on its own. With a little practice you will find the truck will accelerate quickly and shift smoothly. Slowing for 45 mph curve – Depress and hold mystery switch and back off the throttle. The transmission will remain in overdrive (fourth gear) and the converter will remain locked (even if the brake is applied). Upon exiting the curve you can accelerate as hard as you wish. Once getting back up to speed, you can release the mystery switch. Approaching a steep uphill grade (downshifting to third gear) – Depress and hold the mystery switch. Stay in the throttle as you approach the grade and preselect 3rd gear (lockout overdrive). The transmission will not shift. When you are ready to make the downshift, let the truck slow to about 50 mph. Ease off the throttle and release the mystery switch. The converter will unlock and the transmission will downshift into 3rd gear. As soon as the converter relocks, depress and hold the mystery switch and use the throttle to maintain your speed. Again, a little practice and the shift will be smooth. Downgrades – 3rd or 4th gear – Select whichever gear for the downgrade. After the converter has locked, depress and hold the mystery switch for the duration of the downgrade. Brakes can be applied to help maintain speed. Once these techniques have been practiced for awhile, the mystery switch operation will become second nature and you will be using the switch without thinking about it. Hope this is what you are looking for. - John

Bicycles beat me of the line until I pick up a couple of gears. - John

You didn't say how many miles are on the truck. Is the APPS currently on the truck an OEM part? If it is the original part or a replacement OEM part with lots of miles, I would consider just replacing it with a Timbo unit. It may not resolve your problem, but it wouldn't be a waste of money. - John

The above test would be a good test, but before I did that test I would turn the key to the "run" position and rotate the temperature control knob and carefully listen with my ear close to the blend door actuator motor. If I could hear the motor operate (or try to operate), then I would think the problem would be a mechanical one downstream of the motor. If I couldn't hear the motor operate (or try to operate), then I would follow up with @Haggar's advice. I definitely want to know your fix because my Heater Treater part has been in use for 5 years now. - John

That is a good test. When you turn the key into the "run" position, the lift pump will run for about 1/2 second. When you bump the starter, the lift pump will run for about 20 seconds. Make sure the key is in the "off" position (key can be removed position) before you start the test or you may get erroneous results. If you are not hearing the lift pump run, the, check the condition of the fuse. If it is blown, the pump may be faulty and drawing an excessive amount current. If you are going to keep this truck, and it sounds like you are, then you should invest in a factory service repair manual for your year and model of truck. This manual will show the locations of all electrical grounds for inspection. Or, you could become a member of this site and use the site's available resources, such as wiring diagrams. - John

@Zekeworst, even though the 0216 code is a timing failure code within the VP44 injection pump, I wouldn't replace it just yet. I would inspect / clean all battery connections and ground locations. I would also investigate the APPS voltage to ensure that you are within the correct voltage range. Then, I would clear the codes, drive the truck and see what happens. - John

If the engine still runs smoothly, but is just having a fixed power loss, then the engine likely has de-rated itself because there is a problem that may harm the engine if used at full power. Likely, a DTC has been set, but as @dripley has advised, you will need to get access to a good code reader. This will be a good place to start with your diagnosis. - John

If the two wheel drive front bearing in this application does not use a sealed bearing cartridge (unit bearing), then this procedure does sound right. If the hub uses an inner and outer tapered roller bearing that are not sealed then tightening to 20 ft/lbs seats the bearing races, backing off 1/4 turn gives free play, and finally hand tightening sets the preload. There should also be a locking device to stop the nut from turning. If the two wheel drive front bearing uses a unit bearing, then the 280 ft/lbs procedure would be applicable. - John

@pepsi71ocean, I agree with the above statement. Another possible solution with other benefits is to wire the grid heaters with a manual momentary switch. You get to make the decision as to how long the grid heaters stay on with your first engine start of the day. No more post cycling after engine is started, so the alternator immediately goes to work replenishing the batteries. This would significantly reduce the electrical load on the alternator during your day with many engine startups. I have used this mod since my truck was new. I am still running the original Bosch alternator. It has received one bearing kit and two brush sets during its life. Also, I went down in battery size to a Group 24 about two years ago. So far, no adverse effects. - John

I had a fuel gauge strapped to a my windshield wiper for a week and about 250 miles. Fortunately, it didn't rain. - John

Just curious, have you tried getting the air bag code cleared at the dealer? I don't know how it is with Dodge, but some auto manufacturers will allow ABS and Airbag codes to be read, but not cleared by after market diagnostic tools. Maybe someone else knows that answer. - John

Awesome! I only have 162,000 miles to get to get to 500,000. @dripley, I think you're about 9 miles past warranty getting that air bag light fixed. I am I the process of building a house and a shop this summer - just moved to Baker City, Oregon in January. So I am hoping no head gaskets or VP44 before then, otherwise I will have to borrow your roof that you used when you did your head gasket - that is, if your chickens don't mind. - John

Always learning something new. Thanks @IBMobile. - John

Just curious as to why not coat with PAG oil. - John

My mileage didn't suffer because I went back to where it happened and shoveled up all of the soot the exhaust spit out and put it back into the fuel tank. @dripley, seriously, I do appreciate your input. - John

@dripley, I appreciate your response. I just don't want readers to think that EGT's would go to dangerous levels if the throttle and the exhaust brake were applied simultaneously. Obviously, it is not something that should be done, but there is a condition that can occur (and has occurred to me more than once over the years) in which the exhaust brake does not release and you will have to drive the truck some distance to get off the roadway. This condition could occur even if throttle and clutch switches are installed. Just want readers to know that they aren't going to hurt the engine to get the truck safely off the road. Yes, they do - typically up to around 500 - 600 degrees if I stay under 2000 rpm while using the exhaust brake. The highest I ever reached was just under 800 degrees one time when using the exhaust brake at about 2500 rpm with a heavy load.. It is normal for EGT's to rise during exhaust brake usage because the engine becomes an air compressor with a restricted outlet. It is just my opinion, but I can't see how EGT's could rise to dangerous levels (1300 degrees for example) under any condition using the exhaust brake. Thanks for hearing me out. - John

"That last is pretty important, you will send egt's thru the roof very quickly with very little throttle if its closed." I respectfully don't agree with this. In October of 2018, Mopar1973Man posted a similar statement. My reasoning is that when the exhaust brake is activated, only a fixed amount of exhaust gases can get through the orifice in the butterfly valve in the exhaust brake. So I am not repeating myself, I found the old post and you can click on it below to see more of my explanation. Click "Tractorman replied to a topic" - John

@Red Rambler, since you are going to the trouble of replacing the evaporator core and heater core, I highly recommend adding a cabin filter. Geno's Garage sells an excellent after-market one for abut $50.00 See photos. My AC system started losing refrigerant on a regular basis around 250,000 miles on the truck. I elected to replace the original compressor at 270,000 miles with another Denso unit just because of the wear factor. No more losing refrigerant after the replacement. At 283, 000 miles, I removed the HVAC unit and replaced the heater core with one from Geno's Garage. I elected to not replace the evaporator core because it appeared to be in excellent condition externally. Some people will think I am nuts for not doing this, but the AC is still working fine over 50,000 miles later. While I had the HVAC unit out, I did get some different sizes of glue-on weather stipping from the local hardware store to reseal around the ventilation doors. You didn't say how many miles are on your AC compressor. I don't think you can go wrong by replacing the either the compressor or the evaporator core first since both are likely candidates for failure. - John

I am still using a PacBrake that I originally bought new and put on my '99 truck when it was new. Then in late 2001, I bought the '02 truck and put the same PacBrake on the '02. It is a vacuum operated exhaust brake and I have replaced the vacuum operated cylinder twice. I have never replaced the control valve and the butterfly valve has been operating flawlessly. I have been using it for over 20 years and over 400,000 miles and it is still working fine. I know there is a PacBrake model called PRXB that is designed to produce significantly more braking power at low engine rpm's. - John

I am not sure what the correct answer is. I think anti-seize should work fine. I think the biggest cause of an exhaust brake butterfly valve seizing is that in many applications the driver does not operate the exhaust brake frequently enough. I have a PacBrake on my truck and the PackBrake has logged over 400,000 miles - 70,000 on a previous truck, and 338,000 on my current truck. I have replaced the vacuum cylinder twice, but the butterfly valve has never stuck or become sluggish. I attribute this to the fact that I operate the exhaust brake frequently every time I drive the truck. - John

Yes, this could be a possible explanation. One more thing to add to this step. After connecting the temporary jumper wire with a 5 amp fuse, use a test light to check for battery power at the alternator output terminal (via the 145 amp fuse). Do this before starting the engine. The test light should illuminate brightly. If the test light does not illuminate at all, or illuminates dimly, do not start the engine. There should be unrestricted continuity from the alternator output to the 145 amp fuse. I think you will get this figured out - just be cautious along the way. No telling what is wrong with a stolen vehicle with cut wires. - John

You are correct - it is still too tight. It should be effortless to move and you should hear an audible click when it reaches its mechanical stop in both directions. Just keep working on it. - John

@Florin1, could you make a couple of clarifications? Are these new batteries? Or, refurbished batteries? Before replacing the alternator, I would disconnect all battery cables and check battery voltage independently. The battery voltage will probably be around 12.5 volts because the alternator has not been charging the batteries. They should be within one tenth of a volt (.1 volts) of each other (this is important). I would leave the batteries disconnected and then recheck voltage independently about 24 hours later. The results should be the same. If one battery voltage is significantly lower than the other battery, then both batteries should be replaced. Is this fuse broken? Or, is this fuse blown? If that 145 amp fuse (alternator output) is broken, that could explain the alternator getting hot quickly as the PCM would sense low battery voltage all the time and would command maximum continuous output from the alternator. If this fuse is blown, then you will need to figure out why the fuse is blown. In either case, fully charged known good batteries should be installed. To protect the new alternator, I would do the following: Disconnect grid heaters at battery (driver's side) Replace the 145 amp alternator output fuse. Install the new alternator and connect the field wire connector. Do not connect alternator output wire at this time. Reconnect both batteries Fabricate a 5 amp fuse temporary jumper wire. Before starting the engine, install the temporary jumper wire with 5 amp fuse - one end to the alternator output terminal and the other end to the alternator output wire. If the temporary fuse does blow, then you need to find out why before proceeding further. If the fuse does not blow, you can connect the alternator output wire to the alternator and start the engine. Have a multimeter handy and check battery voltage immediately. Battery voltage should rise to about 14 volts and become steady. If battery voltage continues to rise (does not stabilize), shut the engine off immediately. Further diagnostics will be necessary. I would personally follow this procedure so I wouldn't destroy a new alternator. - John