Tractorman

I looked out my window this morning. There was a guy standing in the street with a breaker bar. I pulled the shade down. - John

Yes, you did mention it first - I missed that on my first read, so I apologize for that and thank you for letting me know. I had a '99 with an automatic (with temp gauge) and an exhaust brake for 70,000 miles. I controlled the exhaust brake and the lockup converter with a momentary floor switch and a throttle switch. This way I could lock the converter with or without the exhaust brake. Like you said, the transmission always runs cool. I have had the '02 with the six-speed manual for the last 16 years and 283,000 miles. For me it is a better solution. - John

You have now read several posts for different scenarios for having the torque converter locked up, and they are good posts. But, the really important reason hasn't been mentioned... and that is heat from normal torque converter slippage. Serious heat if you are towing up a hill for any distance and the torque converter is not locked. Heat takes out transmissions. The moment the torque converter locks up (with a lockup switch that you control), the automatic transmission instantly behaves like an manual transmission and the only heat that is generated is from moving parts, and that heat is minimal by comparison. - John

I know I am posting this a little bit late, but I wanted to clarify some things. I also apologize for any confusion on my part as to whether you should use the hand-operated vacuum pump or use the engine-driven vacuum pump for troubleshooting vacuum leaks. I use the hand-operated vacuum pump for troubleshooting vacuum leaks for two reasons. First, it comes with a vacuum gauge and a release valve which allows you to verify that the circuit being tested is holding a vacuum when you stop pumping. The second reason is that the hand-operated vacuum pump pumps a very small volume of air so that even a small vacuum leak is easily detected. The engine-driven vacuum pump is so powerful that even moderate vacuum leaks will go undetected because of the large volume of air it is capable of pumping. This is why it is not a good tool for finding smaller leaks. Also, If you do have small to moderate leaks, the air from the leaks will be continuously pumped into the engine crankcase by the engine-driven vacuum pump. This air will combine with normal engine blow-by gases and then exit through the crankcase breather.. The higher flow of gases (air mixed with engine blow-by) exiting the crankcase breather will make it appear that your engine has excessive blow-by. The additional volume from the combined flow may not allow the screen in the crankcase breather to catch all the oil droplets, so you may see an oily mist, as well.. In the last 283,000 accumulated miles on my truck, there were two occasions that under certain conditions I noticed an excessive amount of vapor in the air when the engine was idling. In each of these occasions (using the hand-operated vacuum pump) I found there were moderate vacuum leaks due to failing hoses or connections. Also, in each of the occasions all of the vacuum operated components (HVAC, CAD, etc.) performed as they should. So, just because all the vacuum components are working as they should doesn't mean that you don't have vacuum leaks. It is for the above reasons that I recommend using a hand-operated vacuum pump for troubleshooting vacuum leaks. Thank you, - John

A hand operated vacuum test pump is a good investment, is not that expensive, and will allow you to accurately diagnose vacuum related problems. For example, the CAD unit can easily be tested. Place the transmission into a gear and select 4-high or 4-low with the transfer case. Jack up the right front wheel and disconnect the vacuum lines at the CAD unit on the axle. Connect the vacuum pump to one port of the CAD unit; leave the other port vented to atmosphere. Operate the vacuum pump and hand rotate the right wheel to ensure engagement or release of the CAD. Swap connections and test again. Assuming that vacuum held on each test, one test should allow the wheel to rotate freely, the other test should lock the wheel in place which means that the CAD is mechanically doing its job. Using the vacuum pump you can continue with testing of all vacuum lines until you find the source of the problem. If both tests pass and the 4WD light does not come on, then you have a bulb failure, an electrical wiring problem, or a CAD switch contact failure. If the right wheel spins freely during both tests, then you have a CAD failure. Vacuum leaks on these trucks are commonly overlooked until something fails. The vacuum pump is very powerful and vacuum leaks can go undetected until they become large. Remember, all air from these leaks pass through the vacuum pump, into the engine crankcase, and then out the breather vent. You do not need this additional air flow out the breather vent! This issue alone is reason to invest in a hand operated vacuum test pump. - John

I just replaced my heater core about two weeks ago. I had the HVAC unit on the bench (the only way to do it in my opinion) and spent some time replacing weather stripping around doors and duct connections. I bought some universal adhesive weather stripping in various sizes for windows at a local hardware store. In some places where I needed a thin seal, I used the fuzzy side of adhesive Velcro. Whatever you use, just make sure it has a strong adhesive. I had already done the Heater Treater blend door repair and all vacuum lines and motors were in good condition and passed the vacuum test. I will be getting the after market cabin filter from Geno's - I definitely recommend it. My evaporator core had lots of debris blocking air flow. My windshield and side windows now stay clear and the heater keeps the cab warm on the lowest settings. Success! - John

I wired the intake manifold heater in my truck in the same manner right after I bought it in late 2001. I mounted a momentary switch on the steering column so it is very accessible and cannot be accidently left on. I don't mind the two codes that are set since I know what they are. My truck has been wired this way for over 280,000 miles and has never required any repairs. Mopar1973man makes a good point for those who live in areas that require vehicle inspections or emissions testing. - John

I would very much like to see some on-highway photos (low beam and high beam) of the light pattern from your truck's headlights. Hope you take the time to do that on one of your trips. - John

Dieselfuture is right on here. The factory evaporator drain on the firewall side does not have a downturn. So, when the seal between the AC housing and the firewall fails over time the condensation dripping from the drain follows the pipe right back into the passenger compartment. It took me awhile to figure this out because I thought it was from the windshield as well. I found a piece of preformed 90 degree heater hose the right size and pushed it onto the drain pipe. Problem solved - that was over two years ago. - John

Since there has been some interest in the heat blanket, here are more photos. All the pieces were installed in October, 2015 and have 42,000 miles of operation with no signs of deterioration. This product was expensive, but since I am keeping the truck for a long time, the decision was a good one. - John

The valve cover cover is a heat blanket developed by Advanced Thermal Products in Irvine, CA. It is custom fitted to the valve cover. I also so have the exhaust manifold, turbo charger (exhaust side), exhaust down pipe, and oil pan covered with the same material. This heat blanket is designed to easily withstand temperatures well above 2,000 degrees F., so the material does not deteriorate. The engine compartment runs considerably cooler, the seals in the exhaust brake vacuum cylinder don't get scorched, and the passenger side floor now stays cool when pulling a long grade on a hot day. My wife likes that. There are noise reduction benefits, as well. The raucous idle clatter is subdued when standing outside of the vehicle as well as when sitting inside or driving down the road with the windows up or down. My wife likes that, too. The purpose for covering the valve cover and oil pan was for engine noise reduction only. The purpose for covering the exhaust components was for heat reduction in the engine compartment. There was some noise reduction benefit, as well. - John

I am tired of struggling to do repairs in that confined area between the front of the engine and the radiator shroud. I modified the top of my fan shroud and now the work area is very accessible - I should have done this a long time ago! The belt tensioner, water pump, and fan clutch are now very accessible, in fact I removed the belt and then the fan clutch assembly just so I could clean and inspect the fan blades. The work was very easy. I know that someone has probably already done this, but here are some photos anyway. I made the cut in a specific manner so there would not be any sharp corners when you reached into the work area. I used two zip ties on each side for easy removal and installation of the modified shroud top. Note that in the photo with the shroud top installed, the zip ties are not very conspicuous. - John

My truck is a 2002 with a manual six speed transmission. I am not sure if your '01 truck will be the same. The wiring diagram for my truck shows that the ECM supplies the "speed control switch signal" and the PCM handles "sensor ground" and "speed control supply". I know that some of the circuit has to pass through the clutch switch and brake switch, as well. I would check these two areas first. The only problem I ever had with my cruise control was a broken power supply wire in a panel just below the steering wheel which was an easy fix. The broken wire was caused by lots of use of the tilt steering wheel. In my case I had code "0577 - cruise control switch voltage high" set. Do you have any codes set? Hope this helps. - John

If you still have the parts, you may be able to do a close inspection and figure out whether you had a loose wire connection, or the contactor failed internally.. When inspecting the wire connection (after the damage has occurred) look at the copper eyelet, the two nuts, and the stud for extreme discoloration. Then make the same inspection where the contactor connects with the post. Whichever location shows the most evidence of an extreme heat source would likely be the problem area. Not an absolute method of troubleshooting, but usually the source of the problem can be detected. - John

I removed the insulation from the PCM wire and soldered in the wire that I added. I brushed on a couple of coats of liquid electrical tape for water proofing and finished with regular electrical tape. I actually ran the added wire through a relay to a good ground contact and wired the foot switch to operate the relay. This step probably wasn't necessary, but I wanted to keep the tapped PCM wire separate from the foot switch wiring to protect the PCM from any possible unwanted electrical voltage. Let us know how everything turns out. - John

I think that there is a definite benefit to having a momentary switch on the floor by the park brake. Just make sure the switch has a low profile and that it is durable and can be activated with light foot pressure. I had this setup on my 99 truck for 70,000 miles and I liked it very well. I used the lock-up feature in 3rd and 4th. With a little practice you can have smooth, quick manual upshifts from 3rd locked up to 4th locked up (unlocked during the shift) Once up to speed the floor switch no longer needs to be activated, but if you are accelerating after a curve or you are cresting a hill and don't want a downshift to occur you can just step on the switch and pour on the power without an unwanted downshift. Also, if you are pulling a grade in 4th gear and it is inevitable that a downshift will be needed, you can keep your foot on the switch and pull hard until the shift is required. Then ease up on the throttle, manually downshift while simultaneously releasing the foot switch and then quickly activate the foot switch when the converter locks up in 3rd gear. Again with a little practice you will find the shifting will be smooth. The foot switch can also be used to keep the converter locked up going down a grade, thus giving you a little hold-back power. When I had my 99 truck my foot switch (wired in series with a throttle switch) also operated an exhaust brake - a great combination. - John

Yes, you can. I have had mine wired with a manual momentary toggle switch since the truck was new. It is simple to do and works very well. Since your truck is an 02, you should be able to use the attached wiring diagram. Find the two relays that control the intake heaters. They are located just below the driver's side battery and power distribution center. You will see the two relays side by side, each with two small gauge wires and push-on connectors. One wire on each relay comes from the ECM (12 volts when commanded) and the other wire on each relay goes to ground. Remove the two wires from the ECM side of the relay and protect them from the elements (the wires will no longer be needed). The wire colors (according to the diagram) are orange with a black tracer and yellow with a black tracer. Sometimes colors differ slightly. From an un-switched 12 volt source add a fuse, a momentary switch (your choice of location), and enough light gauge wiring to complete the job. The wiring and the switch will only need to handle less than 150 milliamps of current. Coming from your switch, connect to each exposed terminal of each intake heater relay The terminal posts are threaded, so you will need to provide a nut with the proper thread pitch for a secure connection. Codes P0380 and P0382 will be set, but should not activated the CEL. - John

A couple of thoughts: * What happened to the alternator 30,000 miles ago that it needed brushes and bearings? * Disconnecting the alternator output wire and then running the engine is never a good idea. The field circuit for the alternator is controlled by the ECM and could easily damage the ECM. Before you remove the alternator you can inspect the alternator output wiring and fusible link as you mentioned, as well as inspecting the ground circuit and the field wire to the ECM. You could use a jumper lead from the alternator case to a battery ground as a test to bypass a potential ground circuit problem. - John

I understand and I like having a simple circuit, but are you not concerned about having only one fuse for all of the headlights? If that fuse blows for any reason, it could be exciting getting your truck stopped. Also, are you using heavier gauge wire from the 87 terminal of each relay to each headlight, or are you tapping into the existing very small wiring to each headlight? - John

I agree with you here. A few months ago I converted to an after market Sports headlights version from Headlights Depot. I chose to go the aftermarket way because of the very high cost for the OEM headlights. The optics on the Headlights Depot lights are definitely not OEM quality. Fortunately in my case the headlights were of better quality than many others out there and there was a significant performance improvement over my two-bulb system making it well worth the purchase. I would rate the low beam circuit as good. The roadway is well lit when looking down the road and to both sides. The low beam works good in rain and fog conditions as well. The beam can be properly aimed and does not interfere at all with other drivers on the road. The downside is that the light is not evenly projected onto the roadway - there are some dark areas (although small). These dark areas do not cause any problem, but they should not be there. I would rate the high beam as very good to excellent. The beam projects very far and is evenly spread. The high beam is properly aimed when the low beam lights are adjusted properly. I wired my headlights the same way an OEM Sport version is wired. I also used Philips Extreme Vision lamps as Daniel Stearns recommended. Katoom, if I understand correctly, you have OEM Sports headlights on your truck and you were very satisfied with them, but they are yellowing now. I am curious as to why you are not replacing them with OEM equipment. Is it because of cost? - John

Unfortunately, the my particular switch is no longer available. It was made in China and cost less than $5.00 at the time, including shipping. I think it was made by 8 - 10 year old kids because it was of good quality. II think if you keep searching on Amazon you will come across something that will work. A Linemaster T-91-S Treadlite II looks like it would work (1" tall). It sells for around $20.00. It looks like you can get it with or without a cord. Either way you will have to do some modification. - John

I tried different setups and I found that a momentary, easy to actuate ,low profile sturdy switch worked the best. It took me awhile to find my final switch, but I did find one on Amazon. The switch is contained in a metal frame that is less than an inch tall and has a large operating platform that has a mechanical stop so the switch inside will not be damaged. I have the switch held down by two carpet tacks and Velcro backing so the switch won't move around. This mounting method also allows for the switch to be placed anywhere and for easy removal when cleaning the floor. You could wire the switch in parallel with an LED light and have a nice setup. If you are considering this approach, just search on-line for "foot switch on Amazon" and you should be able find one right for your budget. - John

I used to have a 99 Dodge with an automatic as well. I used a momentary switch mounted on the floor near the park brake pedal. The momentary switch was actually a universal horn switch (button). It needed to have a low profile, be easy to depress (just the weight of your foot), and be robust. The floor switch made it very easy and natural to control the lockup feature. Whichever switch you use, you may find the converter lockup feature doesn't perform the way you might expect. From what I recall, here is how I used my switch: I put the gear selector in "Drive" and turned the "Overdrive" switch off and started driving the truck. When the transmission shifted into third gear, I watched the tach for a small RPM drop noting that the PCM had just locked up the converter. When converter lockup occurred, I immediately pressed and held the floor switch as I modestly accelerated the truck in lockup mode. As the transmission approached the shift point for fourth gear, I easeup on the throttle and released the foot switch momentarily to allow for the shift and for the PCM to command lockup in fourth gear. When that occurred I immediately pressed and held the foot switch. Under normal driving at highway speed the PCM will keep the converter locked up, so you can release the foot switch and drive the truck. If you need to slow significantly for a curve, but don't want the converter to unlock or the transmission to downshift, then you press and hold the foot switch (before PCM has a chance to unlock the converter) and drive through the curve in a normal manner. Once you have manually locked the converter in fourth gear with the foot switch, it will remaine locked in fourth gear whether accelerating, coasting, or braking until you release the foot switch. This feature is useful to help slow the vehicle when traveling down grades as well. Reverse the procedure when shifting from fourth to third with a touch of throttle during the downshift. After a little practice you will see that it works quite smoothly. By using this procedure you will never have the converter locked during a shift, and it makes for smooth and precise shifting even pulling heavy loads. When I had my 99 with an auto, I had an exhaust brake controlled through the same foot switch as well - a great combination! Attached is a schematic confirming what Jlbayes posted. - John

That's even easier to remember! - John

Here is what I wrote down in my notes for my 02. For left side adjuster, turn star wheel tooth up. For right side adjuster, turn star wheel tooth down. Hope this helps, - John