Leaky88

I've included more pictures. Everyone likes pictures. Width of the Ball hitch bracket is 2-3/4". It appears it will come to the middle of the Air Bag bracket which would be 1-1/2 inch. I have never had airbags but when I look from the bottom up it is not a straight shot upward. It leans into the frame. The area it is bolted to is concave. (The B&W instructions talk to this.) Is bringing the whole upper bracket out 1/4" that critical to the proper functioning of the air bag? I'll do whatever and want to be safe. Thanks. Leaky

Hi, I want to install a Model 1394 B&W Hidden Gooseneck Hitch pictured under the bed on my truck. The truck has aftermarket airbags which I did not install and know nothing about. Former owner had a slide in camper. . The brackets on top of air bags interfere with me installing the side rails for the Hitch. There are 2 bolts on each side of each brackets. My thoughts were to put 1/4 plates between the brackets to bring them out 1/4" so the Hitch side rails will go behind. Good/Bad idea? Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Leaky

The “signature” chip at shut down I can live with, no problem. Mine is now constant and I think I got a bad Tentioner. I went with the Gates HD belt and tentioner as their belts have served me well on my gassers. I saw a Cummins tentioner for $188. Not ready for that swipe since many on Forum have indicated they run Brand X with no issues. I had a squel shortly after installing new belt, followed Moparmans suggestion and reversed belt. Problem stopped. This noise is constant and different.

It chirps while running.

Hi, I know this is an old topic, but what brand Tensioner do you use? I put a Gates Tensioner and belt green belt on mine. It was OK for a few days but now it chirps constantly. Are Gates products off shore junk and I need a Cummins tensioner or what? Thanks. Leaky

Russ Roth: Thanks for sharing. This is a great testament of His power and prayer. I too am alive today for reasons only known to Him and I don't question it. Mike: You continue to be in my thoughts and prayers. Leaky

Mike, I'm very sorry to hear this. You and your wife are in my thoughts and prayers. Sincerely, Leaky

Hi, Wanting to buy a Sonic Cleaner, 10 LTR probably. Looking for recommendations/experiences with one. Thanks. Leaky

Hi, Replaced Gear Box and Power Steering Pump an a 96 Ford Ranger XL, 2.3, 2WD, 5sp. I'm bleeding system with MityVac Pump and Rubber Stopper in Reservoir. I have bled system, started engine, bled system again, restarted engine and cycled wheels back and forth 5X. Instructions say I should be able to put 20 in vacuum on it and see no drop in vacuum after 5 mins. Mine continues to drop to 19" and remain so for hours. Repeated test at least 5 times. Left vacuum on it overnight and it might have dropped to 17" max. All PS lines are new, and tight. No visible fluid leaks. Vacuum pump tested, and plastic line between pump and rubber stopper are secured and tight Am I expecting too much or do I need to put the coveralls on again? Thanks. Leaky

I need to purchase a good impact. The Craftsman I bought years ago is getting old like its owner. Seen a lot of IR's in shops and people seemed to like them. Any suggestions, please? Thanks,. Leaky

Tried a newer one. I rented a 16 from Enterprise a couple of years ago for 2K RT to Wyoming. I could hear my wife talking, the radio playing and there was no smell of #2. Didn't like it. Never do that again!

New to Diesels compared to other's on this forum. I'm 18 months from retirement from this job at least. 800+ employees where I work. The oldest vehicle, a 96 Ford Ranger (Daily Driver), sitting in Parking Lot belongs to me. This past Tuesday was Name your Car Day. I named mine "Paid For". Daughter and SIL bought a new vehicle 3 weeks ago. I got stuck in the dealership watching this wonderful, life-changing experience. Afterward, they insisted on me joining the family at restaurant for diner. (I was so sick at my stomach from watching the transaction, and new debt they took on, I could not eat. True story.) If I get an urge to have a "new vehicle" smell, I go and rent one. MHO Thanks. Leaky

Point taken. For what it's worth, I looked at replacements - ones that I would trust- cost from $29 - $44 out the door. Two replacements I looked at did not have the same type seal which concerned me. (I'm sure a Chinese Engineer took it's compression into account, but I was not sure.) MHO, a Thermostat will either work on not. Naturally, no Cab heat or an overheating condition warrants an IMMEDIATE replacement. The one in my truck was an OEM from Cummins. I tested it, it passed, and elected to go with it. I guess if you are there, and have the money, replacing it is the way to go. Subject change: Mikes article on coolant change, states system takes 6 gallons, and 1 gallon of water is usually left in the block. Question: Does the 6 gallon total include the 1 gallon that goes into the reservoir? Thanks. Leaky

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/gates-33888-kit/thermostat Using the picture in the link for an "example" only, the gasket on right is what the Felpro 35639 looked like. Nothing like the OEM Seal on my "99".

Dieselfuture, I had the Felpro 35639 physically in my hand from AZ. I returned it because it is DOES NOT fit. It is a square-cut and too thick. It has 2 different size lips on it. (I should have taken a picture.) My quote "Thermostat Seal DODGE TK 6, 5.9L Turbo Diesel 2001-03." came directly off the Felpro 35703 packaging. The Felpro 35639 fits like a glove on the OEM 58MM Thermostat and the OD of Thermostat with Felpro 35703 installed is exactly what the it was with the old seal installed. And it is round, NOT square cut. I don't know why there are so many differences between the websites etc. It could be that the Felpro 35639 I have has China stamped on it. Who knows? ( I often buy from Rock Auto and have had good luck with them.) I even looked at an aftermarket Murray Thermostat from O'reily's and it has a thicker Square cut seal that is nothing like the OEM. I'm just trying to share my tiring experience in traveling down this endless gravel road.

Lessons learned: The NAPA seal listed above is perfect fit. Believing it was a re-branded Felpro 35703 I got one from AZ because my small NAPA store would have to order it. Felpro 35703 package says: "Thermostat Seal DODGE TK 6, 5.9L Turbo Diesel 2001-03." (Note: My truck is a 99) Before receiving the info on the NAPA Seal, I had been to Auto zone with my old seal, but everything they showed was a no-go. All the AZ DB showed was a stepped-rubber ring (square-cut) and a paper gasket. No O-ring. Plug for NAPA: [One thing I love about NAPA is they usually have assortments of O-rings in a tray where you can physically look and see what might be a good substitute.] AGAIN, I appreciate all the info and help I got from this forum. Leaky

Thanks guys. Leaky

Thanks for tip. And I am correct in saying NO other sealant is needed between the Engine Block and Thermostat housing?

015point9, Nothing found on Rock Auto. I thought the Felpro 35639 might work, but closer examination of it at AZ proved wrong. It's way too thick. Leaky

Hi, In process of servicing Cooling System, hoses, etc. I Need to replace seal on a GOOD Thermostat. Found one (1), a with Cummins rebrand for nearly $10. It's an O-Ring with grooved ID. Cummins # 3942454 Seal, D-Ring Anyone know of a better deal? Or a X-Reference. Thanks. Leaky

I serviced the bearings when I installed the new sensors and there is no excess play. So far, the ABS and Brake light only come on when CRUISE is used. I took it into town today (32 miles RT) without CRUISE and no ABS or Brake lights came on. Always something to work on. Thanks. Leaky

Dieselfuture,, No, I have not. My sensors are unique to say the least. Please see picture above. And I cleaned up the tone wheel and removed any excess grease I found. I checked the routing of the sensor wires, ensured all connections were tight. Went into it pretty cautiously after reading Mike's experience.

Update: Cruise Control works now, BUT the Brake and ABS light come on intermittently. I can put the Cruise on and it works fine. Then - without notice or symptoms - the Brake and ABS light will illuminate and stay on until I shut down the truck. When the Brake and ABS light come on, the Cruise continues to work. L and R wheel sensors have been changed as was the one in Differential. I also cleaned and inspected the tone wheels for damage, movement, etc. Now what? Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Leaky

UPDATE: It appears a company called AIP Electronics makes these sensors. Nothing $150 won't take care of. Part number on Sensor proper is KH 21A9 and a 14A9. Initially I thought KH stood for Kelsey Hayes but that didn't wash. During all the research I found a Sensor for a 99 3500 listed as LF ABS106 RF ABS107 by AIP. So, I'm in the holding pattern again. It gets better. The starter is dead on the Zero Turn so the grass will continue to grow. Leaky

Thanks for looking. It never fails for me. I have 99 Ford Ranger with 2000 parts on it. I saw Mikes article on changing sensors and thought "that won't take long, I'll get that done and mow the 5acres. Grass continues to grow.