Marcus2000monster

Keep us updated on that monitor please! I’m prob gonna stay away from the adrenaline until that comes becuase I don’t like the idea of using a phone. Just my personal opinion.

Hoping all goes well mike.

Rotella T6 and 133k

Any idea why the machine work would cost? If it’s not too much I would consider it. I want to do it righ the first time if I can $$ wise. @dieselfuture I’m having a little trouble understanding what will have to be done to the Ford seals. The outside diameter will need shaved down to fit and what else? Im really hoping this is something simpler but it’s not likely. We will find out this week sometime.

Thanks for the link! When I pull the valve cover and springs how can I tell if the valve guides are shot? If the guides need help I’m going to do it right and have everything done. But if I can get by with new Ford seals for another 100k I’ll be happy. Also what is the answer to fixing this problem forever? If possible I want to get 6 or 700k miles if possible before any major engine work. Is they’re anyway this blue smoke could be caused by a leaky turbo seal?

Do you have a link to the seals?

I’m not look Mg forward to this when I do my valve seals. Still undecided whether I’ll pull the head and get it machined for tophats or install oem replacements.

Just got through the top hat seal article. So should I pull head and have it machined for the 4.0 Ford seals or modify them like @Dieselfuture did? And you got the seals from usseals or Manton?

Tell me more please! How do you modify them?

The plan is to run stock injectors. I'm not interested in tuning my truck at this point.

Deal is is that I'm really looking for a mainly stock truck without lag. That's the reason for wanting my stock injectors back. If I do anything for tuning it will likely be an XZT

Yea the 53 block don't bug me much but darn those valve seals can't mean anything good. If the seals are bad that likely means the valve guides are shot to right?

Yes I bought it used. And I suspect it was ran at high egts becuase he pulled a good amount cross country. If all I need is valve seals I can handle doing those but if I have to pull the head and spend a lot of money Idk what I'll do. The other reason I would consider selling is it has a 53 block. Like others have said it prob would have cracked already if it's going to.

H mm if it’s going to be that big a deal and cost me 1k aim going to be better off getting rid of it and getting an new truck. I’m baffled as to why I’m having valve seal problems at 133k miles?

Replacing the injectors won’t cost 700$ and a qaudzilla will. Plus I can have my oem sticks rebuilt for 150 or 250 with new nozzles.

Ok so at this point I need to remove valve springs and dig around for seal bits and if they’re is check for excessive valve wear?

Yea he did. He keeps in touch with the new owner too. Still runs perfect with a little bow by at 475k. Now pa treated himself to a 2017 Laramie 6.7

Lol yea I am getting a bit worked up. So when I pull the valve cover I am looking for little bits of valve seals and what else?

If my seals are bad that means my guides are bad to right? Oh boy I’m crapping my pants now. Lol. I can’t afford any expensive repairs right now.

Well I never ever tag it when cold and rarely when hot. Makes me think the P.O. must have ran it pretty hard. I know he towed a good bit and did long hauls. I want to be sure it’s balve seals that are the problem what are other symptoms?

What should I be looking for? Tempted to sell the truck being this issue and having a 53 block. Problem is I’ll never find one this clean with these options ever in my life.

Mine smokes at all start ups afternit has sat a little bit.

WhT are other symptoms of bad valve seals?

Hmm what would cuase this with this lownof miles?

So best bet is to get mine repopped or get new stock hp sticks?