Scarecrow

3 cyl idle would probably warm up the truck, but when it's -30 you have to start the truck first. We just got done with 10 days where the HIGH temp never got above zero, and the lows down to -35* F. Extreme cold weather requires such things as high crank batteries and block heaters.

Was one year old, battery replacement possible, but they were mopar batteries. About CA vs CCA, yes CCA should be measured at 0* but some companies measure at 32* to make them look better than they are. I've got a pallet of core batteries right now, and about a 1/4 of them are marked that way. Mark

OK, my bad, checked our Parts Watch program, and you are correct group 27 750 CCA batteries were OEM until 2002 when they moved up to group 65 batteries. Still don't know why mine had 34's in it. Mark

Yup, factory with 34's. A important thing to check is at what temp CCA is measured, 32* or 0*, they come both ways. Mark

Factory calls for a group 34 battery, and I think you can fit a group 65 battery in there without modification. Both of these batteries can be got with higher CCA Than a group 27. Up north here it's all about the CCA, I modded my trays so I could fit group 31's. Gotta love a pair of 950 CCA batteries when it's -30* f, like this morning. Mark

FPPF makes some good products. I use the Bio Diesel Winter Treatment due to the fact even in the winter Minnesota still dictates a 5% biodiesel blend. I have been able to start and run at -40 using this. About the only thing useful about biodiesel in the winter is it adds lubricity, otherwise it stats to gel at +35*. Costs a little more $18 for a quart that treats 250 gal, works out to about $.07 per gal.

Yup, normal "winterized" fuel is between 60-70% #2 and the rest #1. Used to mix it ourselves at the pumps, but now winterized is all you can find, probably because it costs more. Mark

Yup, usually it's a lot drier in the winter here. That's what makes this year extra special. Mark

Yeah, it's cold. Mark

Correct, but these mods don't blind oncoming traffic. As I said, just sharing information, and as bright as some of these headlights are getting there may be some push back coming. Mark

I posted this back a few moths ago about LED bulbs, not trying to rain on anybody's parade, just trying to share some information. Personally, I don't want to give law enforcement a reason to pull me over, follow your own moral compass. Sorry to weigh in so late, but I've been kind of busy lately, and haven't been keeping up. The LED kit is a great idea, but LED headlight bulbs are NOT legal for on road use. I'm in the automotive parts business, and our company checked into this. This is from Philips lighting on why they don't make LED headlight capsules and for those using other may want to reconsider. The US Federal Motor Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 108 specifically states for forward lighting (headlamps) that "You cannot replace your filament type light source (bulb) with anything else other than another light source" The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has concluded that it is impossible to produce a conversion kit (converting a halogen system to LED) that would be compliant with the federal lighting standard, Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) no. 108. These noncompliant kits frequently include LED modules, control boxes, relays, and wiring harness adaptors. The NHTSA believes this equipment presents a safety risk to the public since these kits can typically produce excessive glare to oncoming motorists. In one investigation, NHTSA found that a converted headlamp exceeded the maximum allowable candlepower by over 800 percent. We are able to produce the LED Sealed Beams (which replace Halogen Sealed Beams) because the sealed beam unit in itself is a headlamp (contains a lens, reflector, and light source). When it is replaced, all these components are replaced with something new. When the integral beam was tested and passed to DOT/SAE requirements for beam the entire unit is passed, not just the light source. This is the same thing the OEM does to validate headlight assembly on a new vehicle, and why they can sell vehicles with LED headlamps. Long story short, (I know its already to long) it is illegal to replace a filament bulb (light source only) with a nonfilament bulb in the United States. Again, this is our suppliers reply, so if you want to use LED conversion headlight kits in you rigs, remember, this is at your own risk. Mark

Glad to hear you got it fixed, having had the same symptoms myself I was pretty confident you would end up at the G100 ground. It's hard to get to and like you mine was almost hidden by the other wires. When I replace the fender this spring I plan on inspecting, replacing, and upgrading that mess! Mark

Understood, what I am saying is at 0* F and below, this truck has never idled up or gone to 3cyl idle even after it was flashed. Hell, I didn't even know it is supposed to do that until I started following this form years ago. Mark

Last I checked, we might, and I say might see +2 Monday!

Well, you were wondering when the cold would show up....... Mark

My problem is the up idle has never worked since I've owned the truck, had it reflashed 10 years ago, and still nothing. Kinda sucks up here in NW Minnesota when it idles alot when it's -20 to -30.

24 years 11B light then mechanized Infantry, got damaged on my last tour overseas, and after I got out of the hospital was told I was being retired. The key to picking a MOS is to find something YOU would like to do, and if you think you might stay until retirement. I know that not many people think that long term, but if your plan is to do an enlistment and get out, then my advice would be try something different than what you normally would for a career. Keep in mind, the military is not like the commercials you see, and there can be some frustration/boredom. You will meet good and bad people, go places, see things, and do things you never would have. All things considered, I'd still do it again in a heartbeat. Mark

If the outside air temp is less than 32* F and your coolant temp is less than 170* it should activate. There's no way a block heater will get your coolant to 170*. Mark

If you look at Mike's diagrams you'll see that they both ground to G100 on the left fender. A good ground will solve a lot of electrical issues. Mark

So was the flash not done correctly, or any ideas why my truck does not want to idle up/3 cyl idle. I've replace the inlet air sensor, and I can guaranty the coolant is below 0 f. Mark

Had this issue two years ago, replaced the multi function switch and still had the problem. Turned out to be the ground under the drivers side battery tray. This is a very important ground and is in a very bad location, lots of corrosion and rust. Clean it up and make sure everything is grounded properly and a lot of problems go away. Mark

Have the same problem, went to the dealership, got charged to enable. Still does not ramp up to fast idle or 3 cyl idle. Read the TSB and the only thing I see that might be an issue is number 3 1. Intake Manifold Temperature less than 0°C (32°F) and, 2. Coolant Temp is less than 60°C (140°F) and, 3. The Transmission is in Neutral or Park and, 4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed and, 5. Throttle = 0% and, 6. Vehicle Speed = 0 mph Could this be an issue with the NV4500? Looking for answers, since the temp here is not going to get above zero until maybe Monday. Mark

Timken hub assemblies are pretorqued at the factory, it's one of their selling points. Some of the Chinese hubs you have to get the torque dead on. As stated before, torque to 180 and let her buck Sorry just read it's a 2wd torque is 280 according to the federal mogul tech page Mark

430,000 rounds on original cross overs. Now I see that DAP is recommending new tubes because it's a 98 truck. I'll get new ones if I have to, but if I can reuse my old tubes that's $150 still in the pocket. Thoughts? Mark

Are you using a local bank? They should know what lake front property goes for.