Tom Robarts

I wouldn't worry about cutting them open

A bit of biocide might not hurt even if you empty the tank as it could be in the lines or filter housing. If you have algae. If it's just old fuel drain and refill and add some conditioner this is what I use

I should have just replaced my HG, approximately $30k CAD later...

I bought the urethane inserts from Geno's, you have to remove the old rubber and steel from inside the mounts then they just push through. I was installing a reman at the time so it was easy access to remove.

I own a commercial fishing boat. I use BoiBor JF, as a biocide. Most diesel fuel is stored in huge tanks at the refineries. These tanks have a water bottom. Usually diesel fuel is treated for Algae before leaving the refinery. Might be the reason diesels all have water drains on the filter housings? As I carry 2000 gal of fuel sometimes its sits for quite a while. I have had 2 or 3 bouts of bad algae contamination over the last 25 years, I shock with Boibor JF and sometimes add a maintenance dose. It does not plug my filters after it's been treated.

The wide lap joint clamps are far superior to the steel rod type clamps, if needed with the lap clamp you can still get the exhaust apart

I had 4" with a muffler, straight pipe and now 4" straight with 6" stacks. I don't find it real loud. Cann' t carry a conversation on in the cab. I ran a 671 Detroit with a straight pipe in a fishing boat for years so I'm GM deaf anyways

That bracket in the picture has a gasket behind it. Could be leaking from there

I have never tried moving the lines. I always take them completely off

Hello, I have to rebuild the engine in my 2002 Zetor 6341 Super with a Z7703 engine. I blew the head gasket on the #4 last week. Pulled it down to put a gasket in it and the piston scuffed the sleeve and stuck the rings. I'm just waiting for my inframe rebuild kit. Has anyone on here rebuilt one of these engines before? Are the sleeves hard to pull?

A couple quarts of oil leaked would be very noticeable, not just a wet spot on the pan.

I have a deep dish MagHytec pan, when I rebuild the tranny after the truck is finished I'll move the sensor into the port in the pan. I need to have a new larger cooler installed behind my bumper as my heat exchanger was leaking coolant when I removed it I won't be running the truck anymore in the winter so am not concerned with the fluid not warming up enough

I've got a 2017 G56 running 70 I'm around 2200 with 3.73's and 255/80r17s

We were still together then

I provided the valve body and pan and governor. He had bought the shop from my exe's uncle. I was thinking they still did decent work. My $7500 slipping transmission tells me otherwise

After my experience getting ripped of by a transmission shop who said they knew what they were doing, I asked around to see what shop actually knew what they are doing. There is a shop up here that builds transmissions for the guys here in the pulling circuit. I'm going to take the truck to them and have them build me a trans with billet internals and a triple disc. The price they quoted wasn't far off what I'd spent on the stock rebuild that didn't hold up, first time they rebuilt it I got 3 weeks before is started slipping and shifting bad.

Its not right from the pan, I realized after I typed it. Its from the port on the rear pass. side of the trans. It will be getting rebuilt again as soon as the truck gets put back together. It was rebuilt twice in 2016 and was slipping at stock power levels last spring when we started the tear down on the truck.

My trans temp from my edge in my Magtec deep pan would show 10-15 degrees above engine temp. If engine was 190 trans temp was 200-205

When I spec'd the turbo's it was still being used as my work truck and tow vehicle. That's what was recommended to me by the shop I bought the turbo's and piping kit from. What housing are you running @trreed, how do you like them? Did you make your piping up or buy a kit? Where did you end up mounting your air filter?

If I'm not mistaken there are freeze or expansion plugs behind the tappet cover as well.

When you account for the oil removed, do you drain the filter too? The filter would hold a quart of used oil. Are you topping up... adding oil between changes?

It would be appreciated. I'm not sure if I actually need it as mine had been missing for an unknown period of time. The bolt has a circlip on it so you Can't screw it too far into the ecm

I replaced it when I had the engine out. I Don't think I could get it back out now that the truck is back together

I realize this is an old post... I installed the bushing in my '99 Auto. Steering seems good and tight, but when I turn the wheel it causes the truck to shift gears... Any advice on a fix?

The Steering kit was easy. The coilovers need to be adjusted and everything set in the front. Can't adjust the ride height until I get the rear lift Installed. With the coilover mounts on top of the spring perch up top being bigger than stock I had to change the air intake tube and move the filter down by the altenator