wil440

yep..... dribble out of a large hole..... damn dangerous out of a small hole, I've seen posts on here saying home made injection pressure testers.... all fine and good just don't get anywhere near the nozzle and what most don't see is the mist is no different to a 13 yr old breathing on a can of butane... been there done that testers not butane

I recieved this from whitelightening maybe 2 months ago but since I had the seats out of my 3500 fitted and it had passed it's yearly i've only just found the time to sort this out, I fitted the belt reel to my original seat and fitted it back in the truck, drivers side was at the time still the leather seat out of my 3500, warning light out and reels working good, refitted the original drivers seat and all ok, over a few days I noticed that the seatbelt warning light would come on intermittantly and then go out and be fine for a while then come on again so I checked ohms on the drivers seat, on this there is 4 wires not 2 which after seeing the passenger side complete from whitelightening was a little confusing as pass side is 1 solenoid, 2 wires, so I pulled the drivers cover and there are 2 solenoids one top, one bottom of the reel, PO or should I say PAO had butchered the lower solenoid and the casing was not attached to the reel but not open circuit, so I got that fixed and all aligned to work and checked the top which ohmed ok, but after scratching head and a beer or 2 and several key on checks bingo open circuit on the top solenoid, check it again all ok. If the seatbelt module sees a fault it puts the warning on and disables the abs, now my question to Dodge is WHY when they used the cheapest made in god knows where solenoids, I asked earlier in this thread if anyone knew what the noids were like with a view to replacement, well I can answer that, they are absolute junk and by the time you got them out of the plastic housing it would be for the bin..... Million mile motor in a 50k electrical system. If I lived in the USA I'd be scouring yards buying electrical parts and piling them high to sell later and much thanks to whitelightening who has agreed to find this peice

every injected engine has a low limit even petrol/gas and they do vary, usually the smaller the holes the lower the pressure can be as it's going to atomize through smaller holes at lower pressures than larger holes and note the word atomize... this is not mist and can quite easily penetrate skin, flesh and bones and cause at best blood poisoning and at worst death, if an injector is outside the cylinder for a pressure test you get mist right at the edge of the fuel cloud when most of the energy has dissippated, at the nozzle it becomes dangerous as 322 bar is 5000psi give or take, over here in the uk it is illegal for the old fashioned injector testers which were high pressure mechanical pumps which were supposed to be full of a fluid that mimicked diesel and didn't burn but they never were, the injector was fitted to an old injector pipe of the same thread and away you go, now they have to be tested in a cabinet with the correct fluid with no way of getting any part of body inside the cabinet while it's tested. Even cracked injector lines are dangerous if the injection pressure is generated at the pump like a P pump I suppose, best to crack them a lot and never just a gnats, most everything I see now are unit injectors and thats take em out and change them usually in Cat C32, C18, C13,C9 and C7

280 to 322 bar is a 622.8 psi increase in injection pressure this will atomize the fuel better therefore the rate of burn will be faster and more complete hence why bad injectors dribbling cause a lot of smoke the flame cannot move fast enough across the cylinder to complete the burn before exhaust valve opens.

Here's stupid from 3000 miles away in uk but aren't Canadian lights on all the time ?? has PO used the wrong switch or wired it wrong

No yards here let you pull your part, that was stopped by the heath and safety police ages ago you can still walk around junk yards but they are full of ...well junk ☺ the info though will be useful for a ebay search for a volvo part

Thanks for that.. that will be great in an emergency. I've been looking and the posi lok seems to be the one as my old 3500 had cad and sometimes it was a struggle to get it out again even after straightened truck and wheels to undo any windup but again it's finding companies over there that will ship to the UK. Found a company on ebay but £90 shipping on top of posi lok then import tax and vat will make it close to £250. I can get a 12volt air solenoid switch off ebay for £5 but from china, uk made £30 ggggrrrr

I'm 57 so won't bother me ☺

Yes that's right BUT even more so as they get older and as parts become harder to find and as we're all herded into battery vehicles

Yes. The road I was on last Friday truck was in 1st gear flat out for about 300 yards this was in the middle of 1.5 miles up a valley road so trans was hot already and round a corner is that climb with 2 sharp S bends, truck had maybe 8"either side the wheels then grass, I haven't done the 2wd mod in low so that wasn't an option and pulling 9k 1st lockup would have been nice but the trans is standard

They even send me a code over in uk...... just got mine in email, valid till sept

https://www.google.com/search?q=mopar+power+steering+pump&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=8YJz2L-ocndOhM%3A%2Cvf-mxn9hm1r-AM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSmmPXgnDoaJzEnDesg-c8P36DWoQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjb8oa7xJnjAhUE_aQKHX4vAy8Q9QEwAXoECAgQBg#imgrc=8YJz2L-ocndOhM:

Just checked my truck.... upper left is the bolt that holds the can on, can't believe Dodge used a 40 plus year old power steer pump is the green stuff plastic caps ?

think there is only one bolt holds the can on

I used to imports Mopar parts and cars/trucks into the UK, was the UK dealer for FBO Systems from Oregon for 10 years until the banking crash in 08 very little clearance on the back of the pump to other stuff If I remember right

I'm pretty sure that is for the mounting brackets on mopar pumps, I'd say take it back off and pull that plug out and see what you can see, the bolt that holds the reservoir on is not in the centre where you expect it should be, I used to rebuild loads and I'm also sure there used to be a filter in there somewhere Now I'm not sure memory huh where did that go. but thinking about it there wasn't a lot to mount these pumps with so a double stud would make sense

this is it without the reservoir Looks like the exact same pump from ram to 69 charger, according to Rockauto but the front is/was different as charger had a pulley If you have no bolt then I'd say your old pump was a crimped together thing and not bolt together, I have a funny feeling that the bolt was UNF but can't remember the size, Just remembered there was actually 2 used on earlier Mopar stuff one was definetly Saginaw, pretty sure the other was Federal Mogul, Sag res was bolt on, there's a good chance Federal was crimped but It is over 15 years since I touched one so not 100%

it all looks very similar to the Mopar power steering pumps from the 60's and 70's and IIRC wasn't the reservoir held on by a bolt at the back and the can sort of sat/sealed on a large o ring or am I talking rubbish

My truck dislikes turning much at all on tarmac roads, never mind 90* turns in 1st flat out

Parts for that would be impossible to find here in the UK and silly money to ship from USA but it is the better option over there. I found a 5 speed on ebay.com for $2k just the box,that would be £2k shipped here and more

Yes tarmac road, also a few years ago I used to compete in off road events in a Landrover and know when not to use 4x4, I think the video isn't working because I tried to delete and add a smaller file as it was buffering badly, but there must be a MB daily limit as when I tried to add the smaller one a box popped up saying I could only add 173mb, I'll do it again tomorrow with the smaller file

Bone dry road with lots of sharp bends so 4 low no use I needed 2 low and as I said before Id already gone past the point of no return due to a heavy vehicle sat nav screwing up. Part way through the vid is a set of S bends, this is where the rear tyres were squealing and spinning out the day before pulling the 9k trailer, this vid is the truck on it's own New_video_Medium.mp4

My fluid changed colour after about 3 miles straight up a valley, I'm actually glad I haven't got gauges as I'd have bottled it and still there blocking the road

I'm away for the weekend in the Peak District of Derbyshire. No mountains. Just very tiny roads that go up and down VERY quick so I bought a large vehicle sat nav as a lot of our roads are not 9k american trailer friendly, plugged the size of truck and trailer in and weight. Stupid sat nav does not do elevation. At one point I heard squealing like a fan belt slipping it was the rear tyres spinning as not enough traction for the weight, this was in 1st gear flat out,I had no choice but to do as we were too far in and no way of turning around,engine temps at 204 and just got over the top,in all maybe 1.5 miles but 1st gear steep and no chance of speed due to tight road and twisting corners. 53 block.... no leaks.... 47re not gone bang.... came up the same road today again but just the truck and videoed it.... truck sounded great on its own but 9k it was howling yesterday. When I get home its trans oil change and pan down for a look and engine oil change. I'll post vid of road with truck empty tomorrow. I was worried about the trans before.... not now. If it dies i'll fix it, I'll say there is no other vehicle available here to buy that would have got over the top towing 9k other than another american truck

I just recently got a 9k lb fleetwood trailer towed it back home about 150miles, truck is 98.5 47re bone stock except BHAF and a Fass fuel transfer pump but not a big one just the stock replacement, truck pulled it fine.... slow but fine no bother as I drive it slow anyway, once home I had to sort out a light plug on the truck as trailer had a 24N socket which here is large truck stuff, while fitting all this at the back of the truck I spotted the manufacturers tag still just about attached to the tow hitch which said 6klbs ooppps and a 6k ball mount, got a heavy duty ball mount from rockauto but the hitch was £147 with £877 to ship it so spent some time welding steel onto the one I had and it will now do the job, one thing I did notice was that rust had weakened it quite a bit so It will get 2 coats of Cat black tomorrow which is on top of rust eater and etch primer and new steel. Motto is check the stupid bits first, no good making 500hp and 19003449289lbsft of torque if the towed bit rips the hitch off at 70mph in the fast lane