wil440

I tried bridging the 2 wires to the passenger side tonight, this makes no difference and after the checks the light comes on so I've ordered 50 ohm resistors to bridge the wires to see if the seatbelt controller needs to see a resistance, I'll have them tomorrow... No luck anywhere getting the seatbelts or a solenoid so this is my prefered option over leaving the seats out of my other truck fitted

going to do the mods, fit a gauge and make the decision after that..... I really don't want to get on that silly power slope as I said been there done that

Just about to do the fuel transfer pump relay mod and also relocate to closer to the tank and 1/2" lines and straw, question is PO fitted this Fass pump https://www.dieselautopower.com/fass-direct-replacement-fuel-pump-drp02 is this good enough ? truck is 98.5 24v auto, trans is stock as far as I know, it has been rebuilt by PO late 2017 although looking at the rest of this guys work that may not mean much. He had used a canister pre filter and nothing else, luckily It hadn't done diddly miles and I got it, the guy wanted £60 for the original filter housing he had thrown under his bench yeah right, I fitted a Cat filter housing but this ****ant prefilter is still in the line, it's like one of those rubbish precarb plastic things you used to see on gas engines but it is steel, I haved a much bigger Cat one to add into the 1/2" lines , I also have a Cat water seperator filter but can't fit that yet as the bowl is clear so will only use that when I have to buy all fuel I'm looking at a quad later this year when the truck is in better shape fuel wise but realise the trans is the limit. I have been down the slippery HP slope at Ray Barton RE and have no desire to go there again all I need is belt and braces so I don't break down miles from home as no one in UK will tow this thing LOL My thinking is DAP straw, relocate TP to frame near tank and relocate Cat filter/filters, put it on a relay and fit a fuel pressure gauge so I know what I'm dealing with, if it comes in below what's needed pressure wise fit a Cat 9.3L 12v fuel transfer pump which will put at least 70% back to tank....??

Got the rear shocks delivered today from Rockauto by Fedex took about an hour to fit tonight after work, hopefully book the retest for tomorrow as off now until tuesday, got some more stuff I want to do on it but it will be good to be able to use it again..... here if a vehicle isn't MOTed and not road taxed they can tow it and crush it..... really gets me cos at 40 years old neither is required. Might go look at a 5th wheel trailer thats about 150m away over the weekend also

thats great thanks... they are for a quad cab with the retractors in the seat backs ?? if so let me know how much and how you want to get them to the uk, also how do I pay... paypal is good for me and I'll cover cost of parts, shipping, paypal fees and your time no problem

Gray, on a funny bracket that sits underneath the seat cover at the top, got a solenoid on them, passenger side on my truck has open circuit on the 2 solenoid wires, I could get a picture of the belt and bracket but the solenoid on my pass side has been removed by PO, I am in the UK but would cover any cost to get a passenger side or both

Shame... what wasn't spoken about here was the true cost of producing a new car versus carrying on running an old one. Salvage yard.... now that would be my ideal job.... I'm after front seatbelts for a 98.5 QC the ones in the seat if you got any LOL ..... sorry but my motto is don't ask don't get

Here we get free road tax and no mot once vehicle is 40yrs old but I can see that stopping seeing as everyone is being incouraged to go electric and new,they did have £2k scrappage deal here were you got 2k off a new car for an old car trade in, lots of good classic cars went to the crusher. I do get classic insurance on the dodge though at £ 230 a year

It is harder here and as you say mechanical is the easy bit as most of that can be planned for to at least keep breakdowns to an absolute minimum not so with electrics. Luckily I have breakdown recovery included with insurance but if I had a 5th wheel trailer on that breakdown deal wouldn't be worth nothing no one would recover it ?. Another thing to consider is its only 21 so its got another 19yrs before it's mot and tax free, by that time I'll be parked in a similar hole also Is a toyota that same headache there for parts, pretty easy here. I have lots of ideas also and no spare time ☺ there's a 68 double cab w200 for sale here with a 12v but its £15 k ouch I'll keep the 24v at least till the free fuel ends though,might be worth a bit more by then

Had a slack day yesterday at work, nothing broke down for once so got on here and read some posts, what struck me and sticks out like a sore thumb is how unreliable these trucks can be on electrics.... post after post of dead vp's, dead ecu's, dead pcm's, bad connections, bad this and that..... Million mile engine bolted to a chocolate auto trans that just might run ok through the first year, I then got to thinking what it would mean to me here in the uk to just suffer 10% of the faults posted, I came to the conclusion that although I've been a diesel mechanic for 41 yrs now and have picked up a few things along the way I'd be struggling. I get diesel through work so that offsets a lot of $$$ but I hope to rod up in 2 years (RETIRE) free diesel will end so this truck will be sold I think, I will be looking for a 40's/50's hot rod job rated Dodge that can be fixed with a roll of tape and a bag of zip ties ? that will sit nice next to the WLA Harley I fancy

Mot was due last october but seeing as weather can be grim around that time of year I decided to sorn it ( statutory off road notification) which notifies Gov, and police its off the road so you don't have to tax or mot it. This has given me the chance to do some jobs on it. 1. Fit front seats out of my other truck as seatbelt warning won't pass mot check 2. New reverse/neutral switch as reverse lights not working 3. New LED strip reverse lights 4. New fog light on rear with new switch/wiring in cab 5. Alternator wiring mod with 150 amp resettable fuse 6. New battery terminals 7. New front flexi brake lines 8. 3 New front brake hard lines due to corrosion, now all copper lines 9. New pass side top/bottom ball joints 10. 2 rebuilt brake calipers 11. New shocks (front) got rears to do this week 12. New sway bar links Some of the above was failures on the mot check. All parts specific to truck from rockauto excetp calipers as i've got more pistons and seal kits than I know what to do with Still to do 1. Move fuel lift pump to frame 2. Larger fuel lines 3. Fuel pump relay mod 4. Lockup switch (maybe) 5. Quad ( maybe)

You guys are probably not going to get this at all...... worked at a garden centre from 11 yrs old, weekends and school holidays but before that ( I kid you not) I used to go hay bale carrying and potatoe picking at the local farm for 50P a day which is 1/2 a £ but in the mid 70's so was maybe $3. My school jobs paid for my first motorcycle a Fantic 50cc which I had stored on the landing next to my bedroom for nearly a year before I was old enough to ride it, a fantic caberllero, suzuki 250, yamaha dt 250, honda 750 and mortgage and rubbish put paid to all that had many a classic car but all british until I was better off ££$£ wise

Can't even start to imagine what it's like to not have a Nation Health Service, it might sometimes feel to us like it's rubbish and slow and whatever.... blah blah blah but we pay for no treatment at all unless you want to pay to get it tomorrow, we do pay maybe £7.50 per prescription for medicine and we pay National Health Insurance but it's to our government, I maybe pay £600 per month ish because I'm classed as a high earner but I'll get a pension when I retire from the state as well as my private one, if I was stoney broke and on hard times everything would be paid by the state especially if ill. I've worked 7 days a week for maybe 25 years + as a heavy mobile plant mechanic, in my spare time i've built a house (brick not wood, been on it since 2009.. living in it now) work 5 1/2 days now but I don't need to work at all really..... school till early 20's no ties no bills no nothing life was good early 20's till early 50's one big uphill struggle not a pot to leak in.. no ££ just work work work... no bikes, no cars just work, did manage a few american cars and a couple of trucks but no ££ to run them.... thinking about that 30 years it could have broke the Hulk/Pope/any man...... add whatever..... now out the other side BUT I'm that tight with money now I squeak like a bricklayers wheelbarrow with a rusty wheel. motto is after all the hardship it does get easier... well it has for me but the one thing I am incapable of doing is being beat

I'm a heavy mobile plant tech. Have worked for Caterpillar, Finning the cat uk dealer and 4 large quarries mainly large cat and volvo machines I or anyone I know have never stripped an injector due to not being able to keep parts clean enough. These things are sonic cleaned and fingers and rag etc never touch them, all torque figures need to be right preferrably with a calibrated torque wrench as bodies are easily warped, tolerances are that tight that even heat off of fingers on one part can make it tight in it's mating part. Just something we never touch

Truck has failed it's test on passenger side lower ball joint, front brake pipes corroded, rear shock rubbers, worst thing is after all the seatbelt hassle and changing the front seats for my 3500 ones he never pulled the reels at all... typical..... if I'd have left the original seats in he woulld have checked them I'll bet

every one I have contacted says no go, Mopargiants.com has the seatbelt but won't ship outside of USA, MOT is tomorrow with seats out of my 3500 in it, once it's passed I'm going to refit reel and see if I can add a resistor to seatbelt harnesses to fool the control module and make the warning light go out, but besides that if anyone has seatbelt reels for a 98 to 01 QC with the reels in the seat I'll take them

It is all quite easy to figure why the timing key.... tolerances simple as that, timing has to be bang on to the degree the tolerances on crank, crank gear, cam and cam gear won't be anywhere close so off set key gets it to where it needs to be from the factory brand new, it could also change in theory when VP44, crank, cam or gears are changed but I'd guess VP44 is the one, one thing to remember bigger cummins use timing to increase power but this is done by moving cam followers in relation to the cam centreline and fuel timing changes

Yes same here 150amp resettable fuse, drove the truck for the first time today since doing the mod, no difference at all but my truck hadn't got a problem with AC noise anyway

3 replies so far no luck.... even a seatbelt repair company on ebay.com is a no, think if no one on here has anything I'll just have to ohms resistor both to fool the module so no warning light. MOT test wouldn't have been a problem last year but april 2019 it got tighter, now any warning light on the dash on is a fail This is just the type of problem that I think will be the killer of these trucks and a reason to get it gone and buy a 40's job rated, can't really see the point of a million mile motor when the rest just falls to bits, I've read most posts on here and you just have to conclude reliability is not good especially electrics. I could sort this in about 2 seconds flat but I really don't want to scrap my 3500, although I could buy a 40's job rated and use the v8 and some running gear for the JR and keep the rest for parts for the 2500

At the back of the seat at the bottom there is a zip on the leather seats in my 3500 that zips the front to the back as the front tucks through the gap at the squab, on my 2500 with cloth seats same idea but a strip of metal sits inside a u shaped strip to keep both together,the cover then slips upwards and off, on the front there is a strip thats hog ringed to the seat so cover has to slip forwards as I didn't fancy disturbing them I haven't looked at the drivers side yet and there isn't a solenoid on my passenger side as PO removed it,the solenoid looks like it unbolts off of the belt reel, so I have no idea what it looks like, mine also has no electrics at the latch so no warning for seatbelt not fastened,wiring goes up the back of the seat inside the cover to the retractor. Be great if you had a solenoid at least

Several places have the drivers side oem new but not pass side. One of the first I messaged has just replied he doesn't have pass side, maybe 4 or 5 to go

Searched ebay.com and messaged a lot of parts sellers and also a seatbelt repair company. None specifically listed ship to uk but who knows

Need hepl So I removed the seat fabric and got to the seatbelt retractor, guess what.... no solenoid... previous owner must have removed just the solenoid off of the end and left the rest of the retractor, I can see where the solenoid has been on the foam as it's blackened in a small area as if it got a bit hot before popping the fuse SO I can't even see what type/shape or anything to try and replace just the solenoid, the PO of this truck was a backyard blindman when it came to repairs, Part I need is 5FP64LAZAC seatbelt retractor although the 5FP64 is the trim code so not to important... I can't find it anywhere, has anyone got any ideas, I can't even get a replacement used seat as shipping will be $$$$, is anyone breaking a 98.5 to 2002 with solenoid retractors, anyone know anywhere that has NOS, Moparpartsgiant.com has it but doesn't ship outside of USA GGRRRR. Have all of 98.5 to 02 got these solenoids on the seatbelts or have some just got plain inertia belts instead of restrain belts ??? My next thought is if the module is expecting a 50ohms resistance to put the warning light out I could fool it by disconnecting both left and right and using a 50ohms resistor between + and - on each harness, the belts would still work but not lock ? HELP as I can't leave the 3500 seats in it forever

Been looking around at pricing and if shipping to uk is possible, $740 ish straight off Quad website or $640 ish off of ebay both plus shipping, import duty and vat why the difference ? And is the ebay one the same

Just checked again as per the information above, drivers side 50ohms passenger side open circuit so I just need a passenger side seatbelt retractor for a 98.5....