wil440

collected it today, 150 mile there cruise on at 55/60 used 1/4 tank diesel, hooked it up and spent a while fitting a trailer light board from my UK spec tow plug and messing around with the E brake wire to get them working, brakes all good to the point of Ebrake on manual full, truck will not move, got back onto M5 which is a 3 and 4 lane motorway/highway for the 150 back, set the cruise at 55, OD off, trailer tows really smooth, truck pulls it easily. On the way there just the truck IAT was 40C back 48C, coolant there 86C back 90C, boost there never went over 7psi, back hit 20psi once, these were all OBD with my SnapOn Modis plugged in so not sure if boost is accurate but it's a figure none the less to work from. I've towed quite a bit with my 3500 and I always thought it rode better towing, this 2500 feels better towing, empty and not towing both are choppy and bouncy, get some weight either in the bed or on the bar and they are so much smoother. I don't drive hard or tow hard nice and easy catches monkey but I can see that 9klbs towing isn't nice for a stock auto, M5 fine no probs, little roads to and from the M5 highway is a whole different game..... me thinks flexplate, tork, VB and a trans build THEN more power. Funny thing is truck used a 1/4 tank back same as going. I am happy truck ate the job easy and it's bog standard with no power mods at all

From China, and also from Europe and soon to be also from Mexico, I see the reason for it which is to try and lower the amount imported and manufacture more in the US but It may just mean you end up paying more for stuff as it's a tax on the end user really and china fixed there own tarrifs against the US so checkmate .... waste of time

Agreed.... concentrate on the good points and don't offer info on the block unless asked.

Got the controller fully wired last night, tonight I checked underneath for the blue brake wire, nothing at the back so I checked the build sheet and the truck wasn't built with a tow pack so everything at the back is UK spec and of no use for the electric brake wire. Found the blue at the left wheel arch plug so I cut it out of the plug as I haven't got a terminal for the other part as it was blanked so added enough blue to get me to the back with a soldered joint and heatshrink and inside protective ducting, I'm going to leave it coiled at the back until I get to the trailer then complete the wiring as needed

I bought a 98.5 24v with a 53 block a year january,only done 155k miles, no cracks, no water marks anywhere on the block and as from Saturday it's going to be towing 9klbs plus a lot and if it cracks it cracks, it's auto so I have much more to worry about than a 53 block as already asked how much $$

Seems that you can't help some people though, about 20 yrs ago I did some work with a guy that worked for a company call Aveling Barford who made dumptrucks up to 55 ton for quarrying here in uk they got into heavily subsidised trucks brand new into africa basically giving them away. They had a mountain of warranty work mainly engines, now engines were Cummins KTA19C and they don't go bang no matter what. Turns out after a few new engines the oil sample lab noticed oil taken out of failures didn't contain the same additives as the new factory fill oil, turns out locals were draining the engine oil out of the new nearly free 200k truck and filling it with million mile gunk then selling the new stuff. Factory pulled the plug and never sent anymore trucks.

I got the controller just about fitted last night, I haven't got anything to fit the factory plug so i'm going to remove that and use a 4 pin Cat plug, made up a short harness from the controller to the plug just really got to get it down the back now

I'm sure the enjoyment will outweigh the ££££ My wifes also on one cos I bought it BEFORE finishing the house I've been building since 2009 ? I have a 7 pin on my other truck so i'll check for the plug under the dash as that has factory tow pack

Some people stop at nothing to get into europe and no it's not a joke, 1 person in a glove box, 1 in an engine bay in a running/driving car, 1 behind back seats and 2 sewn into a mattress all trying to get into spain within a week, all needed hospital treatment for dehydration and seized joints especially the guy in the engine bay

Well it took me a while but yesterday I got a 2004 Fleetwood Terry Quantum 30ft bumper pull with one slide, it's had a lot of new stuff inc new rubber roof (no water damage inside anyway) new brakes, new cooker, new microwave, new sounds, new carpets, new seating, new toilet and shower new fridge/freezer, new mattress, it is basically new all done at a rv dealer, weight is around 9500lbs and I'd say it was cheap as no Jap/Euro vehicle/pickup is able to tow it legally here in the UK I decided on a trailer rather than a motorhome due to my brother buying a 32ft rv and after taking a look at that I thought the motor bit looked way over complicated and the electrical system certainly left a lot to be desired especially after the conversion to UK electrics, so I already have the ram so why have to tax, mot and insure 2 vehicles. I figure that while the ram and a 30ft trailer is longer than a rv I have a pivot in the middle ish and the trailer also has a pivot so I'll be able to get into tighter areas, I also prefer that I have transport once unhooked, I collect it next weekend around 100 mile from me. I have to fit a electric brake controller to my truck which the seller included the controller and a wiring kit in with the price, It's a POD Pro and after reading instructions it needs a 12v positive, negative and a brake switch feed then a wire goes down to the tow bar to operate the brakes. Is there a dedicated brake switch feed to use on the truck ??? and where is the best place for the 12v supply ?? my guess for this would be the PDC and as I've done the ground and power mod I have a spare stud so off of that fused ?

I took another look and yes the belt you have is correct, checked the part njumber and that is correct also thanks let me know a cost including shipping

there is one other thing to consider...... when I'm either long done with tools or long done here they are still worth a good amount although my 4 kids and 11 grandkids and counting not one is on my page so I guess ebay or they go with the ram

Hi thats the best I can say is right, my belt has no solenoid so I have to take the chance this is correct, It looks right to me, I will take all responsability no problem... please go ahead and figure out a total cost and I'll PP Thanks

Yes agreed on the cost but for every day use for a job they are cheap. Buy once and forget. only problem is thieves

Same here.... used and abused got to be snap on..... was changing a cutting edge on a loading shovel yesterday 18:1 torque multiplier shattered a 1 1/2" no name socket. Didn't shatter the next one I picked up which was SO ?

Messaged email address

Wow that was quick. Thank you. I've sent you a message for shipping and payment

Problem is the module under the centre seat needs to see a resistance in each seatbelt circuit, warning light comes on if it sees and open (disconnected) or short ( both wires bridged together) Tonight I connected a 50ohm resistor across the 2 wires and the module puts the light on at key on/start as it should then does all the checks and puts the light off, so a 50ohm resistor works and fools the module into thinking the solenoid is connected and working so this would work on the original seat that has the solenoid missing, trouble is the resistor gets a little too hot for my liking, I did try and find a 12v relay to check ohms on that but I've only got 24v in my van so I'll check tomorrow at work for one, my other option is to pot the resistor into a heatsink, the next steps will depend on whether whitelightening can find a belt but I still think it's worth making a plug in box that will fool the module as wrecking yard belts won't last forever, this needs to be figured out as when the seatbelt light is on the airbag sysyem is disabled AFAIK. The seatbelt works fine with no solenoid it's just the module has a ball bearing inside that if the truck is over a certain angle or upside down it makes a connection and the solenoids tension the belts

I work on Cat and Volvo mainly, mining equipment I have a variety of tool brands but the stuff that gets the most use/abuse is snap on. I bought a SO roadchest when I was 18, still in the work van today and its 39 yrs old cost £800 now its £3500 I earned less than £50per week when I bought it so it is actually cheaper today than it was 39yrs ago. Bought a hammer about the same time SO have replaced that at least 6 times over years. 3/4 drive 5ft ratchet same age..... never had a kit in it no chrome on it now.... I could go on

I take the later trucks (gen2) still had the reel in the seat back but didn't have the pretensioner solenoid ? Or the module under middle seat ? Also does the later belt come out with ignition off ? As both my trucks need ignition on for belts to unreel. Thing is belt still locks on decel without solenoid as that part is just mechanical, hopefully wire up resistor tonight to check warning light

I'm not bothered whether the whole seatbelt assembly or just the solenoid, you know i'm thinking if you can find both I'll have both or just passenger side at a push, I wouldn't take your own apart well not unless the solenoid is faulty as I can use my truck as i've fitted seats out of my other truck. The cover has a long clip at the back of the seat back (zip if leather) then the front piece slides forwards through the gap between seatback and base, work it slowly up, there is a bead hog ringed into the front of the foam so the back of the cover goes forward, the seatbelt trim pops out of the cover and it all then works back through the hole, the torks are largeish, i'd say 50, pretty sure they were the same as the seat hold down torks, just as and when is ok for me and I'll pay all costs including time, cost of parts and shipping, I am also going to try the resistor deal in my wiring as I think these things will cause a problem certainly here as we cannot as from april have any lights on on the dash. Hopefully you'll be able to find them and I appreciate you time and help.... thank you Neil

sorry to hijack but I came across this thread while looking for information on this www.dieselautopower.com/dtt-assassin-mechanical-fuel-pump-with-plumbing-98502afp cheaper than some of the electrical pumps, comes with a drawstraw and I wouldn't have to do the relay mod

Here's pictures of the passenger seat with the seatcover took off and the seatbelt retractor removed, as you can see PO has removed the solenoid so I have no idea what it is like but it over/around the white gear. The retractor slots into the top/outside part of the headrest area and is held onto the seat with 2 torks bolts which are at the back of the headrest,

If you could that would be great,I'll get pitures tonight when I get home.... thanks