wagntagn

Trying to adjust the front band,is this the adjustment screw it's beside the TV cable - - - Updated - - - The steal line on the pic is it the one to remove and blow to get oil out of coolers

Thanks man,so this is done with the pan off.

So what you do is pull the 2 lines going to cooler from the tranny and blow those off ,then you blow air in the fittings on the tranny ,does it matter which hose or fitting you blow in?I picked up somewhere that there's a check valve in the cooler lines to prevent the TC from draining when the truck is sitting for a few days.

what's the best way to drain the tranny oil,if I pull the pan I only get 3 to 4 litres.

On the attachment on how to adj the cable it shows to refer to different figures,where can we see the figures to make it easier to adjust?This one was posted by mopartechnician.

how can the kickdown cable be adjusted?

would it be worth to switch to manual tranny or is it too much work and money involved,the body and engine are in real good conditions

Talked to our tranny guy and he said a shift kit can be installed for $500. but that might kill what's left out of my tranny.How can I troubleshoot problem with lock up or bad TC.Somebody mentioned the tranny would go up to 240 degrees if wore out at what temp does the dummy light flicks on,never seen it come on yet.If I buy a Smarty can I modify the shifting pattern?The tranny as 300,000 km the tranny guy figures it lots of k's for a 47RE.This truck pulled a few campers and not abused,the only thing making it work harder is the 35'

I think your right that's probably the best way to go .....Thanks man!!

I'll check for codes,if no codes I'll bring it to the tranny shop to check the pressures unless there's a way to check the lock up

fuel press 18 idle &13 wot(fass ddrp2 pump)showing no codeswhen I floor it rpm goes up to 2600 rpm and ramp speed is slowhow can I check for lockup?can the band be slipping in the tranny?would a smarty be a good thing for the tranny shifting?

my 2001 with auto tranny 47re seems gutless,my diff's are 3.55 with 35" tires.How would you know if the torq convertor is slipping or tranny?Top end of the truck is 85 mph and slow on take off.Is this normal for the specs of my truck?

I'm using a liquid filled gauge on a 1/16 ID hose,I leave the set up under the hood,once in a while I pull the set up on top of the hood to see my pressure.Eventually I'll set up a pillar gauge.

Prowelder is a little too busy,is there anybody else building those units?

I went with the DDRP & 3/8 big line kit a year ago and no problem yet ,running roughly 18 psi idle and 14 psi WOT,kept the original OEM filter & drawsraw.It's a pretty good set up,I 'm not planning any mods,my gauge hose is set up on a T before the VIP,with the big line kit it makes it easy as everything is JIC fittings.

Shell Rotella T 10W30 diesel engine oil is what I switched for.

The truck wasn't plugged in wasn't quite ready for the cold but I had done the switch to 10w30.So 750 cca would be good enough what about res cap?

winter man is here,this year my truck is a little harder to start.I'm thinking replacing the batteries,what is the best battery for these cummins (reserve cap & cranking) I'm thinking we need some reserve for the grit heater,then cranking to start,the new style round cells are they any good ?

Good job!!

I heard from another guy that 75W140 was a good choice as he didn't have any problem when he switched over,he didn't have to add a friction modifier.

On the gallon of the Lucas 75w140,it shows you don't need the friction modifier.

Winter is around the corner we get to -40 farenheit some days ,I was thinking about going with Lucas 75w140 full synthetic instead of 85w90.the front diff is a M60/2 and rear M70/26 with anti spin.

Your right I better wait but for now I have the lower rad hose leaking a bit,it was rubbing on a turbo hose clamp so I was gonna drain the cooler for now,change the hose than refill with same coolant ,but the coolant won't drain pulled the cap off and opened the rad drain on the drivers side,is this valve a 1/4 turn to fully open?I tried blowing air in and still no coolant coming out:cookoo:

Might have time to do a coolant change today but it's -6 celsius a little cold to flush with water.Can I just drain the old and refill with new coolant,is it real bad not to flush with water?I f I drain at the bottom of radiator do I drain the complete system,is there a drain on the engine itself?

They recommend distilled water,at home my water runs threw a water softner would that be the same or I have to buy distilled to mix with the antifreeze?