Perrysburg Dodgeboy

They are sealed hubs but every hub that has failed has had lots of grease coming out of the rear seal area. I installed the hubs Saturday and had the rotors cut at NAPA at the same time. Have to say the NAPA store really pissed me off also. Dropped off the rotors and when we came back 1.5 hours later they only had one done. They clown behind the counter said " Your rotors are really bad and very pitted" I asked wow what causes that? (was setting him up) He says "that's what you get when you buy cheep import rotors". OK then again why did my rotors do that? They are NAPA rotors and you guys (not that store) charged me $190 each telling me just how good they are. His come back was "oh well we didn't sell them to you so maybe you should ask the guy that you gave the $300 to and not me. Will be the last time that store sees me and my money and maybe NAPA all together! With that said they have been good if you figure the dealer changed the OEM under the 12/12 coverage and I changed them @ around 32K with the NAPA rotors and the truck now has 125K+ on it. Just pissed me off that he ___-U-ME-D that I bought imported rotors. Don

Well nope I have not tracked it, to be honest I checked it about a dozen times with in the first 10K miles and have never double checked it again. So now I'm going to have to check it out again. I have done hand calcs every now and then just never double checked the OH.Don

Well my truck has it and a buddy at work that has an 03 and just had it turned on after I showed him mine. He also told me "I was told you can't do that with our trucks". Wow I glade someone didn't tell that to my dealer then . Don

All the third gen and up trucks have the option for setting your idle with your cruise control. You only have to take your truck to the dealer and have it turned on. If your dealer says he can't find a new dealer.push the cruise on, then push set and your idle should run up to 1000 RPM. By tapping the accel button you can run it up to 1500 RPM in 100 RPM increments.Don

Is there a write up on the valve adjustment? The Cummins shop wants $250 to do it, sounds like a lot of money for maybe an hours worth of work. I would like to do it myself but not sure how you know were TDC is on our trucks.Don

Overhead and my overhead is off by less then 0.5 MPG checking it by hand. The thing most people don't understand about the overhead mileage is you must reset it every refill to get an accurate reading. Also if you reset between fill ups you will not get an accurate reading. The other thing is where I live (the Ohio valley) we are as flat as the desert valley, so this also aides in better fuel mileage along with tucking in behind a big truck on the highway.Don

Crown Batteries are the only thing you will find in my vehicles. Simply the best money can buy IMO :thumbup2:Don

15 MPG on the highway?:wow:Man I was pissed at the 24 MPG total I was getting Tuesday driving to pick up my new Ruger GP-100 SS 357 Mag. Was bucking a strong head wind. On the turnpike I was hitting 28 but on the State Routes it dragged it down to 24. But mine is a 2004 4X2 with 3:73 gears and an auto. When was the last time you changed the air filter?Don

First I have a 4X2 so the conversion kit is out. If I had the 4X4 I would have bought the Mopar hubs the first time. The hubs for my truck are $490 list but the 4X4 hubs are $325 list . They say it has to do the four to one ratio 4WD verses 2WD. As far as the last hub, it might have had 2000 miles on it maybe. I spun it before the install and was not happy with the way it felt. Very tight and not smooth at all, I'm going to call Hub Warehouse in the morning and see if he is going to refund my money for the last hub he sent out and then just write off the $240 and move forward. The Part that ticks me off is him insisting that the issue is with the truck! I signed out a bore gauge that checks too .0001 of an inch. I also brought home my Starrett micrometer that also checks to .0001 of an inch. I will mic the OD of the hub (both the imports and the Mopar hubs) and ID of the knuckle and see whats what. then next week I'm going to take the import hubs to the plant and deconstruct the bearings to see what went wrong. Bad heat treating maybe, press fit to tight, roller bearings not ground correctly? Not sure but I'm going to try and figure it out. Don --- Update to the previous post... And BTW yes I'm very good at it now! The last hub was installed in 12 minutes! This does not include removing the wheel, just the caliper, caliper slide, rotor and hub then reinstall, all in 12 minutes! Sad really if you think about it. The one I did in my driveway was completed in under half an hour total! Don

OK it has been what like almost a year since I installed the hubs. Well we have replaced the left side 2 times and the right side 3 times with it needed to be replaced again! The last time for the right hub was December! The clown at Hub Warehouse told me "you have to have something worng with your truck or you just can't drive for $hit" really? So now I'm going back to the OEM Mopar hubs and we will see what happens.Don

I just got done replacing the gov sol & pressure sensor in my 04 48RE this weekend. I was experiencing the same thing you are having. Ordered the parts from DTT.COM but it should be noted that, before you install the gov sol you MUST make sure you install it using the correct grove!!! If you are going to do the install let me know and I will tell you what to look for.DON

OK I installed the new Gov/solenoid I bought from DTT today and new the trans won't sift out of second gear unless you let off the throttle completely and then if you give it to much throttle it wants to go back down to second even if the RPM is to high for it!!!! Any ideas as to what could be causing this? Don --- Update to the previous post... Should add that I install a new sensor at the same time, this was a OEM part from the dealer. --- Update to the previous post... Mike can you move this to the power train section please. --- Update to the previous post... OK found out what was wrong, the new governor solenoid is used in two other transmissions the 46RE, 47RE and the 48RE and there are two retainer groves and I installed it in the first grove and I should have used the second or the one that is closest to the solenoid motor! I would think maybe a heads up on this from DTT would have been nice. Will be calling them Monday to let them know of the issue and the fact that a simple note added with the solenoid could save their customers A LOT of aggravation!!!! Don As a side note this thread has received 29 looks but not one reply???

With that low of mileage I would just drop the pan, change the filter and add the fluid...4 quarts as previously noted. Don

Man glad to here you got her running , I think I would have been drinking a 12 pack after that ! I hate to say this but why didn't you cut the lines to shorten them up? My Airdog-100 came with 3 barbed splice connectors for just that reason and you are correct the lines are made up for the quad cab LWB trucks. As for where to pick up your power, I don't know if the 2nd gen trucks have this or not but here is where I picked up the 12 volt power for the pump. The main battery line (drivers side) going into the fuss box (or power distribution box). If it were me I would go back under and shorten those lines up. Here is a link to the post on my install of my pump and a guard I had made up to protect the filters from road derbies. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4261-Airdog-100/page2

What Mike?

OK I know it's been awhile but we have been working 7 days a week on a new torque converter launch. Well Tinner got around to making up my shield this week. He used 12 gauge SS so rust won't be a factor and one of the reasons it took so long, he made it out scrap left over for a guard. Here are some pics of it. The tab that goes under the frame bracket is 6"X3" Here is the main filter guard it was 8"X8" with a 45* bend 2" from the bottom. Note: the cut out for the lines was done with a cut of wheel and a 90* die grinder Here is the guard installed the notch I cut out after I marked it up with a cut off wheel and die grinder (off the truck of course). I think it should do the trick don't you. OK if you do this mod and you zip tie the return line to it, add a small piece of 5/8 heater hose split down the middle. If you don't the guard will amplify the pump motor to the point that it will drive you nuts! You can see some more pics here http://rides.webshots.com/album/558448972PkXvyB?start=48 Don

No the factory does not tint any front windows other then the "SoftRay" tinting like GM uses. Not sure about Canada but here in Ohio you can tint your front side windows using 50% tint. I'm having my front windows redone with 40% (blocks 60% of the light).Don

JT great minds must think alike I'm going to have an millwright make me up a shield to protect the filters from road derbies. I'll post some pics of it when I get it finished. Don

dripley that was what I was wondering also, the tool for removing their jiffy tite fittings is $70/100+ ! :cookoo:As far as the instructions go, I thought they could changed the order of a few things myself. Like if you want to remove your lines you need to do it BEFORE you mount the pump! Not sure if the 2nd gen trucks have the battery tap like the 3rd gen trucks do. If so this makes a much easier and better place to get your power from. JT just read and understand the directions before you start. I didn't have any problems they just seemed a little out of order like I said above. Myself I do like the cleaner look the filter delete gives, BUT you will lose the factory "Water In Fuel" light. however in 125,000 miles I have never had it come on either so do you truly need it? I'll roll the dice and just drain the WS filter every 3 months. The number one thing I can say that saved me a lot of laying on my back was removing the inner wheel well liner ! Made removing the filter assembly and running the wires and lines a walk in the park. Take your time and if you can get a helper you can cut your time in half and save the crawling back and froth under the truck! :banghead: I also did not I repeat DID NOT bleed the lines like they said to do. I just turned the key and bumped the starter to kick the pump off the first time and then waited until I heard fuel running in the filler tube. Oh that was the thing that pissed me off they say to cut out 1/2 " of filler tube! Don't do it, just cut it as straight as possible and in stall the return tube. Make sure you have it pointed with a arrow to the tank!!!! and no I didn't mess that up . All and all it is a very nice system and should give me many many years of trouble free service. Oh yes JL I copied the serial number down and wrote it on the owners manual the day the pump was delivered, I anal that way . Don

The truck The Airdog-100 This is where I picked up the battery power Here is where I mounted the relay Factory fuel filter delete pipe. Later I'll remove it drill and tap for a 1/8" PT to add a fuel gauge. Pics of fuel lines Anyplace the lines touched or was close to something I put pieces of inter tube to protect the lines.

Z-Bart is a wonderful thing!

I was thinking about the filters and was wondering, the WS-100 filter is a 10 micron and the FF-100-2 is a 2 micron filter. So would the FF-100-2 100% of any water that gets past the WS-100? Their is a company XX-Fuel that claims "Specifications: "8" 8 micron filtration at 99% / 10 micron at 100% efficiency. 95% first pass water stripping capability." on their WS-2008. And their XX-2 micron filter claims "Specifications: "2" 2 micron filtration at 100% efficiency." so is that just 100% sold contaminants or would that include water also? Don

Start the truck turn the fan to one of the medium speeds then tilt the steering wheel up and down several times. If the fan starts you have a bad wiring harness on the column! You may need to push it hard to the upper and lower tilt stops (not real hard however). Or just remove the knee bluster and look at the harness, disconnect it and look at the connector ends for signs of burning. Dodge has a harness repair kit for this very problem. This is what you don't want to see! Don

Well I installed the Airdog-100 today in the 96* temp @ noon today . I should have pulled the truck inside the garage instead of working on it in the middle of the driveway :banghead: . The install went well however longer then I figured it should have went. Started it around 10:30 AM and finished it a little after 4 PM.Sorry about no pics but I just wanted to get the job done, maybe after I get the tools put away tomorrow I'll snap some picks of the finished job.Have to say the decision to delete the OE filter assembly was a great idea. Makes for a much cleaner set up and removing the inner wheel well made working on it a lot easier . Not happy with Airdogs instructions on how to do the install and will be calling them to see if they would like some ideas to make their product a lot easier to install .The unit itself works great and have to say the truck idles 110% better then it has in a long time. Also has a lot more power then it has in a long time . Funny how you can drive a vehicle for a long time and not notice the performance slowly slipping away . I did install the 17 PSI spring that comes with the pump instead of using the 15 PSI spring. The kit also came with 1/2 inch premade lines with the quick disconnect fittings.Will be asking them why in the world would they use two different kinds of fittings on their system. The pump has some goofy fitting that requires a special tool to remove them . Their wiring harness is kind of poorly thought out also. But since this kit fits many year trucks maybe that is why I had to cut ten feet off the battery power line. I will post a pic of where I tapped the battery power from. Workout very nice and was very easy to do.I will look into the BF1275 WS as with the OE filter assembly removed I no longer have the "WATER IN FUEL" warning light! Will ask them what is up with that also. Don

I have a 04 with the adjustable peddles and they work the same as they did when new. Not sure how or if you can adjust them but the system is just a screw drive system. So I would think there should be an adjustment on it.Don