Perrysburg Dodgeboy

If you have the time to wait I'll talk with one of the guys in the quality/repair shop at the plant where your column was built (I work there). The issue you describe is a known issue and if I remember it is the upper bushing/bearing assembly. But I will check to make sure and find out what parts are needed for the repair.DonPrinted the TSB off at the plant but then put it in my tool box and then forgot it SORRY :banghead: .Basically you grasp the wheel at 12 and 6 and note any up and down movement. You should have zero to +/- .010 up or down movement. If you have more then that or any noise like a clicking, clunking or ticking you will need to adjust the tilt wheel section of the column. Again I left the instructions on how to adjust it at work but will tie a string my finger or wherever to remember them.

And that is why you should always have an oil analysis done at least every other oil change.

Mike I'm talking about the "factory alarm" not an after market. With the factory system there is a transmitter built into the gray key cover. If the vehicle is started without the key it will run 15 seconds then shut down the fuel pump. That is why it is very important to have a spare key made up as you need to have two keys to program another key. With out them a new key will cost you just a tad over $200 bucks.Don

Man that sucks, I guess you don't have security system on the truck. If they peel my column the truck will run for about 15 seconds then the fuel pump shuts down if the ECM does not see the signal from the key.For you guys that have a spare key so you can lock your truck with it running. I'm also guessing you don't have power locks with a key fob? I keep my key fob on a different key ring so I can lock and unlock my truck with it running. No you can't lock the truck using the power lock switch but the key fob will lock the truck.Don

I feel the 03 and 04 Ram/Cummins is the best two years for them and here is why. [*]No emissions so the best fuel mileage. [*]48-RE trans. [*]No pump failure due to low fuel pressure like the 02 and older. For the known issues: [*]Fuel pump issues, will want to upgrade. [*]Main wiring harness mounted after the tilt section can cause electrical gremlins. Don

Nope the ones I pulled out are factory with 118,000 miles on them. but to look at the junk in the bore after I removed them was very enlightening. I'll get some before and after pics and post them should have them up Wednesday unless I work on it tonight. Don Here are some pics of the steering knuckle left side after the hub removal note the build up of rest and crud on the in side. here is a pic of the two long bolts along with a sort one for reference. It should be noted that the heads where a little dis-formed from being hit with the hammer. Nothing a little grinding didn't remove. I know I'm a bad photographer, I'll retake them on the right side when the part comes in. Sorry Finally the new hub installed with the dust shield installed. I was going to take the shield into the plant and glass bead it then prime and pant it black with heat temp paint but then I thought that might be to anal.

DieselD24 and Dully with the links Mopar supplied I see now what you where talking about as to the extension:duh: . But my truck is a 2WD so I can't do it that way, for us 2WD boys and girls I think the use of the two long bolts installed into the lower bolt holes threaded in until you see the end of the bolt coming out of the hub. This way you will not damage the threads. Also a nice torch set would be nice but if your like me and do not have one then map gas will do the trick. It just takes a lot longer to get the heat up. I also wounder if some of the failures of replacement hubs could be attributed to not getting the bore and mounting face completely clean? a small piece of dirt or rust not removed from the face could tweak the bearing enough to harm the bearing.Maybe I'll take some pics of just how bad my steering knuckle was and why you should use Never-Seez during your assembly.

OK I could not figure out how to get the extension to the frame even with my 15" extension. But what I did do was take the two (one from each side) long top bolts and run them in until I saw the threaded portion coming out of the hub. Then I heated the bearing with map gas, sprayed it down with Kroil, then hit the bolts back and forth until it came out. I received the GMB hub today and have to say the machining appears to top notch, surface finish is good bearing feels tight and smooth so only time will tell. BTW the warranty states "These parts are warrantyed by the seller for as long as you own the vehicle. This warranty does not transfer to the next owner. The warranty is strictly limited to replacement of the parts. Shipping, labor and any additional costs are not covered. This document is your proof of warranty. A copy of this document must be included with any warranty claim." So even if I only get 50K per bearing I'm only out the shipping cost. Don

I usually try to buy American however having been laid off for eight months and just being called back two weeks ago I have little choice as to how much I can spend. I did find the 4x2 hub with Timken bearings at an internet store for $256.98 at http://www.usautoparts.net/?uapcoupon=SAVE&apwcid=UAP20110502CM19&om_u=Ng55PP&om_i=_BNvshMB8acj$qLThat's the same price EO else is selling the 4x4 hubs for, still expensive but not as bad as $377!Bugman how do you press it out with the power steering? I need to do the other side and am getting ready to start. If you or someone else can enlighten me I sure would appreciate it. I'm going out to pull the wheel, caliper assembly and bolts and will check back in about 1/2 hour. Thx DonYep 30 minuets and this side is just as stubborn as the other side .

Man on man took me an hour and half to get the POS hub to pop out along with three soakings with Kroil and heating it with map gas . Ended up beating up the dust cover a tad but nothing a ball peen hammer and a 2x4 wont fix. Did find the left bearing has a little slop in it so I'm just going to order another hub and replace both at the same time. BTW my hub had Timken bearings in it not SKF and they don't look to be replaceable for what I can tell. I'll call a buddy at the local Timken bearing warehouse and see if they are or not.After beating on the wheel flange I got to thinking, what if I bolted the wheel back on the hub with three bolts that way I would have a lot more leverage to pop the hub out. What do you guys think? Don

Well the total cost for the imported bearing with shipping was $114.99 now tell me again how can NAPA charge $377.90 for a hub with a SKF bearing. The only difference between the two is the bearing, I work for Chrysler and if the hub was not bad (I can move the wheel about 1/8" total) I would just get a Timken bearing and replace the bearing only. In fact that is what I'm going to do with the hub I remove. Then I'll put it on the left side and do the same thing to the left hub assembly and keep it for a spare. I will let you know what the bearing only costs me and I bet it is less the $70. As far as quality goes does SKF even have a bearing plant here in the States anymore, I believe their manufacturing went to China some years ago. Then add the fact my truck has SKF on it now (OE is SKF) and given it went out with only 118K on it, nope they don't impress me any. Don

$377.85 for a NAPA bearing for my truck!? OK jshmohr tell me how the 4WD cost $265.85 and a 2WD hub that does not have the splines for the front axle so 1/3 the manufacturing time but costs over a hundred dollars more!? Sorry SKF bearing or not no way I can pay $377.90 for a hub assembly, the guy at the store told me it's because they don't sell as many,being it's a 2WD not 4WD. Just does not make since to me. Don

OK if memory serves me (it normally doesn't ) didn't Dodge/Ram OK the 05 for a after market exhaust brake? I thought you had to get a flash done then you can add it.Don

There is an elbow on the turbo that had a vacuum hose on it and controls the wastegate. You can adjust the set screw to increase the boost. If you don't know what I'm talking about then you most likely have not changed it out.Don

On the P-0234 have you installed that elbow with the set screw to up the boost? I got that code and the dealer ordered a new turbo and waste gate, then found the elbow . Was covered under warranty but I was told never again .

Just a heads up guys, those "orange things" are not seals they are insulators! The seals are the blue o-rings, add a light coating of vacuum grease to the o-ring and they will seal again. Just make sure you DO NOT get any on the orange insulators!If your case is cracked buy a tube of plastic repair and seal it from the outside. Try to mold it so it warps around the edges on the inside to make a air tight seal. I would scuff up the plastic inside and out to help it adhere better.Don

Well after finding all the parts (I think) here and there it is going to cost me almost as much to piece mill a system together as it is to buy a Airdog I system. Then there is the warranty issues with putting a kit together myself over buying a complete system. So it looks like I'll be getting a Airdog I. I got the call to report to the plant this Monday in the Tool and Gage Room and from what I have heard you can work 7 days 12 hours a day if you want. Don

I'm running Autometer only wish they had the OME Dodge gauges when I bought mine. Sure is going to upset Momma when I replace them! My question is I want to add a fuel pressure gauge should I dump the boost gauge or add the fuel gauge using a Single Steering Column Pod? Here is a link to Diesel Manor they have a ton of install info on their site. http://www.dieselmanor.com/installsheets.asp

Yep you are truly blessed and Our Lord is truly Great! Glade everyone is safe and made it out all right.

If you do find it is the harness there is a kit out to repair it, you get a new connector all the wires about three feet long, heat shrink and splice connectors. You will most likely need a new ignition switch also. Good luck, it took the dealer 4 hours to do mine and after pissing and moaning I got Chrysler to cover the whole cost. Don

NW Ohio here.

I agree with 4U, as a mater a fact I'm out $438 for a water pump on my DD Volvo because the new WP went bad. I had to pay to have the dealer replace MY supplied part a second time! I had the timing belt/pulleys replaced and figured I would have them replace the WP at the same time. Yep the freaking WP went bad and I had to pay to have it replaced. Still waiting for the check from the manufacture for the parts and labor to be refunded, has been 6 weeks now!Now had I let the dealer supply the WP they would have to do it over on their dime not mine. Any shop that does not install customer supplied part is foolish IMO. Think about it, unless you screw up the install, you don't have to warranty the parts/labor, it's a win win for you. Don

The ECM does not look at how much boost is being made? I post one of those fittings on my truck and the SM at the dealership told me if I do it again the turbo will be on my dime!!! Had an over boost code so they ordered a new turbo complete with waste gate before they found the fitting. It cost me $75 for dinner for him and his wife.Don

What do you think about the Raptor pumps. The problem I have is shelling out five to six hundred dollars for three to four hundred dollars worth of parts. Like you said you can pick up Walbro GSL392 pump for about $100/130 off of E-bay then all I would need to do is add in the filter. Maybe I'll open an internet store then buy wholesale and drop ship like all the rest of these places are doing. I could sell for 15% over cost and still make out like a bandit.

I had an interesting conversation with a Carter fuel pump engineer this morning. I have been researching just what way I want to go for a new lift pump and filter system. I just can't pay $400+ for something that costs the dealer $100 at the most . So anyway carter sells a pump (P4601HP) with 18 max PSI, 3/8" lines and a 100 GPH flow rate. More then enough for a stock to lightly modded truck. However I was told that the pump MUST be mounted with in two feet of the tank AND the inlet MUST be below the tank. If the height is not fallowed the fuel will siphon back into the tank and shorten the life of the pump. The fix would be a simple check valve mounted between the tank and the pump. This got me thinking, I wonder if the pump kits they sell have an internal check valve or not. BTW the P4601HP kit lists for $99.95/129.95 and comes with 3/8 hose fittings, clamps, mounting bracket, wire stubs, bolts and nuts. Then I'll add a single Cat filter kit after the stock filter for $99 and a bigline kit for $39 and I'm good to go. The only thing I need to come up with is a block to replace the stock carter pump on the OEM filter housing, any ideas for that. I could make one when I get back to work but, if it can be bought I'm open for that.Don