Perrysburg Dodgeboy

Nope I bet you will find your main wiring harness behind the knee bolster is shorting out. Remove the knee bolster then remove the harness on the steering column and look for this. Note this is on the Ing. switch The issue is if you use your tilt wheel a lot the 12 AWG wire connectors start to become lose and start arcing out causing an interment connection. Mine would cut the blower motor out.

If used in the States it must be shown on the ingredients label.Don

You can get the true OEM mirrors off E-Bay for about $280-$340 with power and heat. I ordered a set for a buddy and they work great and had the same part numbers on the tag that my have. Here is a set for $189.95 not sure who they are made by though, do some research and remember the cheapest is not always the best nor is the most expensive the best http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Truck-Power-Heated-Towing-Left-Right-Mirrors-Set-Pair-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem483f3e4053QQitemZ310298689619QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Here is an answer for your dimmer question, http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS-G2gauges/G2image17.htm tap into the light brown wire on the lamp connector. Note if you add the boost elbow with the set screw you will also need to add a turbo pressure fool chip other wise you will trip an over boost and see the "CHECK ENG" light.

Now that is a good point, our trucks are a little front end heavy .

Not knocking NAPA but the I know that the GMB lifetime hub I installed a the Neon has over 70,000 miles on it right now. Our Volvo has 14,000 miles on it and it is not a lite car. I would be willing to bet that most of the so called OEM bearings are not even made in the US or Canada but China. I work for Chrysler and the bearings we are getting for our stators used to say "made in the USA" then we noticed the stickers were gone. Yep sure enough they are made in China now, same company they just moved their factory to China. I bet the price didn't drop any :mad:That's my :2cents:Don

Wow mine don't have that and they are the factory set ordered with the truck .

OK thanks guys I was told that the 03 and newer trucks can run even if the pump dies. Was told it would still run without damaging anything, it just would not start back up. I'm going to pick up that tester from HF and see what the PSI is coming out of the filter also I will have the dealer do an injector balance test. Where is the test port located on my truck?

I'm running the stock $32 Carter pump mounted on the filter housing, I know, I know it's not an ideal pump for the QC LWB truck but I just don't have the $400+ to do the upgrade at this time. Anyway what should the pressure be on the back side of the filter going to the IP? During cold weather the truck will ramp up to 1000 RPM but it stumbles almost like a misfire if it were a gasser. This causes it to drop back down to 750 RPM. The only way I can get around this is to use the idle up feature with a cruse control. The truck will still stumble but it stays on high idle. I was thinking maybe the pump was going out again but would like to find a gauge to check it like maybe this. http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html. I know the IP on the 03 and newer trucks will not be damaged by low fuel pressure unlike the older trucks, but I'm sure low pressure can't be good for it also. What things could I be damaging if the FP pressure is in fact low. Also if it's not low what else could cause this, it only does it when it's cold outside. Don

I have bought from them and they are great to work with. Go with the GMB lifetime hub I installed them in my DD Volvo S-80, a 2000 Stratus and a Neon for a neighbor without any issues. BTW what is wrong with being cheap, I paid the dealer $380 to install the left hub on the Stratus and it took the guy 20 minutes to do it when it came time to do the other side I ordered the hub from H,B & W and installed it in about an hour. A heads up, mark the ABS sensor with a paint stick or marker before you remove it on units that do not come with a new sensor! If you don't you run the chance of damaging the sensor if you install it to deep, or it may not read the star if it is to shallow. :smart:Don

can someone post a link to the Steering Column fix?

Can you post a pic? I looked at my stock ones and can't figure out what your talking about. I ordered a set of after market ones for a buddies truck off e-bay and they came with the convex mirrors. They were made by the same OEM manufacture and even had the power and heater option for $230 for the pair.Don

Is this a 12/24 valve thing? Have to say with 116K+ on the ole clock I have never had any bad smells (not oil related anyway ) . I ran Rotella but switched over to Amsoil for the extended life.Don

Try changing the fuel filter first, @ $14 it's a lot cheaper then $200 to have the injectors cleaned and tested.:smart:Might want to run a few tank fulls of Lucas injector cleaner through the truck first also. I like try the cheaper things first, cause I be poor

Not sure if you made your decision yet but given low fuel pressure is a I/P killer in your truck, I vote fuel pressure.

That's your problem, any line that uses a ferrule or o-rings should never be over tightened. After the nut is snugged down turn it 3/4 of a turn if it leaks turn it 1/4 turn until it stops then go one more 1/4 turn.

Does the truck have a stock exhaust system, I had a similar noise in a 97 Ram Van and it turned out to be the rear muffler/resonator. There was a TSB on it and the dealer replaced the whole system from the cat back and it was gone. Maybe it's time for an exhaust, if so up grade to a 4" SS or anodized aluminum system and let her breath!Don

Well I can tell you I did it (bought a e-bay kit) it didn't work on my Ram do to the fact that my truck has the "lamp out" warning thing on it. It reads the amp draw of each circuit and if it reads low the "Lamp Out" comes on in the dash. Then you go around and find which one is not working. Anyway after I install the kit I turned on the headlamps and the started to blink on and off. After hours of research I found out I was going to have to buy a $180+ relay kit to make it work. I ended up installing them on my wife's Neon and they lasted about 2.5 years before a ballast took a crap. Save your money here is what I'm getting a buddy down the street has a set and they fit as good a the stock headlamps and look cool as heck! http://www.topgearautosport.com/part/A1223KVZ101/Dodge_Ram_2002-2005_Black_CCFL_Halo_Projector_Headlights_with_LED.html Here is a link for all of the kits. http://www.topgearautosport.com/type/101-1012/Dodge/Ram/Projector_Headlights.html Good luck Don

Anything built after 01-01-05 is classed as a 04.5 and will have the 325 HP and 610 TQ ratings.Don

I used the tee fitting from the link below and it works great. Here is a great resource for install videos and instructions. http://www.dieselmanor.com/installsheets.asp Fitting although you can buy this direct for a 1/3 of their asking price. http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/FTG-MFD.asp pic of installed fitting in line http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-MFD58-installed.htm

Back when I was rebuilding engines I used to buy heads from the wrecking yards and rebuild them. It's not a big deal to install a new valve seat in a head. Bore the pocket .005/.008 under size put the seat in the freezer before you start the machine work to shrink the seat, bore the pocket, heat it with a torch (the pocket) then install it. Cut the valve angles in the seat, grind the valve, lap them together and your done. At most a half hour job if you have the tools and set up down. They are getting $1000 to $1500 per head man I might take the buy out at Chrysler and go back to rebuilding heads! Just what is the issue with the seats and what years are the bad seats found in? I have a early 04 is this part of it or did this start showing up in the 04.5 trucks. Never heard of this before. Don

How do the third gen trucks compare to the second gen? Would this write up more or less be the same? I'm thinking this is in my very near future as I'm seeing one to three drips of oil on the floor every week or so. If it's not one thing it's another :broke:Don

Welcome and I have to say I will be joining you when I get my Dad's 91 D-350 CTD. I have always wanted to drop a Cummins in a Ramcharger for a long time. I owned three Ramchargers in the past and pushed a lot of snow with them. Good luck it will make an awesome truck for you. :drool:Don

Your pads have to be replaced as a set both sides at the same time! Are you replacing the caliper also? You might want to replace the brake fluid at this time as well. Myself I junked the factory rotors and bought a set of NAPA ultra premium brake rotors. The stock rotors were pitted and wrapped at 30K, I now have 84K on this set of rotors. When I replaced the rear pads I found them to be pitted also and they were replaced with the NAPA rotor as well. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=UBP880143_0129730924&An=599001+102004+50022+2022078+26346+4294945981

Yep sounds like the rods need to be adjusted from this post "It's kinda like there is a cable inside and it's stretched or something. I have to pull on the handle a lot harder then I used to...." Most likely the door might have been frozen and you forced the rod to move a little. If it keeps getting out of adjustment you can pick up a new clip retainer and this should solve your problem. I try and use dry lube, anything wet like oil or silicon sprays and such tend to attract dirt and grim that will do more harm then good. If you do use a oil or spray let it soak in then wipe it off, use a rag dampened with a cleaner. You can pick up a small can of wax and grease remover from any auto parts store that sells body shop supplies.