fire176969

Thats good. Still going to wait until I get gauges in the truck before I go upping anything anymore. I should probably not use it anyway without gauges but I have been. On the gauges part of things, I work in a heavy truck dealer and all the pyrometers on them are after the turbo and all I see on the dodge pickups are pople drilling the manifold to put the probe before the turbo. Which place is better? Or is that another thread?

I know before I go doing anything to make more power I need gauges. I've been doing a no no and running without gauges on anything for a while since the truck keeps bringing up gremlins.

Is there something wrong with the gears or just changing them to change them? I'm just wondering cause I wish my truck had 4.10 gears in it and have the 3.54s instead

Just wondering if they would be too much injector for the turbo to keep up with along with the HRVP.

You shouldn't have any problem at all with that slide in camper you are wanting. I've had almost 3 ton of slag in the bed and a trailer with a bobcat and an couple extra attachments behind my old 3/4 ton chevy with no trailer brakes before. DOT officer with the temporary scales was so nice to just call me out of my mind but couldn't find anything illegal. He said the weight was just under 30k and apparently was still legal in Ohio.

On his website now and looks like dieselautopower has them if he wants to check it out.

I'm thinking about a set of injectors for mine but not sure what would be best for my truck. Everything besides my sig is stock and not sure about going over stock sized sticks with the stock turbo and HRVP. Any thoughts??

This might be something for the common rail guys to look into, https://cummins-tuner.com/

I'll give it a shot then. This will be my first attempt at rebuilding one of these transmissions so hopefully I won't be steering anyone in the wrong direction. Probably going to need some assistance getting everything posted in the correct order and organized so it would be useful if you're up for it when the time comes. won't be for a week or so until I get started.

I'm planning on doing a rebuild and shift kit on a 47re as soon as I can get the money rounded up for all the parts. Any interest in posting the process on here?

South-east Ohio here.

Have any tips on using the search engine. I'm not trying to be a smartass but I can't ever seem to find anything I'm looking for. :banghead:

I did adjust the shift linkage and TV cable, not sure if I adjusted the TV cable correctly though. The shift points seem to be the same as the old tranny as long as it doesn't start slipping obviously. There is a speed sensor on the tranny, I never gave it a thought of that being the problem since my speedo still works correctly and reads the same as it did before. (compared to MPH reading on gps)

Depending on road speed I do get a drop in RPM's when I lock the converter manually. The converter will NOT lock on its own regardless of speed/load etc. I had the OD turned on going 55 mph and it didn't even act like it was going to try shifting. At 55 mph I locked the TCC and the RPM dropped by 200 but still stayed in third gear. It honestly acted like a 3 speed without a lockup converter. I thought backflushing them would be best. I will have to check and see if we still have our flushing system setup at work for this kind of thing. It was put together to flush coolers and line on big fuller transmissions so i can figure out a way to adapt it to the coolers from the truck.

Thats what I was thinking but wasn't sure since the OD is, or atleast thats what I was informed, electronic so that when I manually locked the converter clutch it should have been able to reach the speed and pressures it needed to shift into OD. I'm not trying to say you aren't right because it is obvious you know way more about these autos than I do, I'm just trying to understand. Is there anything other than ATF +4 that I should use to flush the coolers? Should I backflush the coolers or just pull the cooler return line off and do it that way?

Rechecked fuses and relays, all ok. Would the converter be causing it to not shift into OD? I checked the fluid without it running and obviously it is overfull but there is also some black looking particles floating in the oil on the dipstick. Doesn't smell burnt or anything though. Kinda concerned about that a litte bit. I like the auto but am really starting to lean towards swapping in a manual.

Will double check them tomorrow. Just kinda took me by surprise when the one I took out worked fine and then this one had this problem. Any budget friendly recommended converters if I do needs one?

I recently purchased a used transmission which worked fine when he pulled it out to convert the truck to a 5 speed. After getting it installed in my truck and getting the fluid level correct and everything adjusted properly, I think, I have no overdrive and no TCC lockup. The TCC will lock when I flip on my mystery switch but not under normal driving with the switch off. After driving the truck for approximately 20 miles I had a couple of pretty steep hills to go up on a side street in town. The trans seemed like it was slipping the entire way up both hills. While climbing a longer hill on a backroad I started up the hill and everything seemed fine and I noticed the engine temp up about 220. I flipped the switch locking the TCC and within about 300 feet with the cooling fan on the temp was back at 190. No codes showing up with key switch method or scanner.

I did some looking under the truck this weekend while replacing my transmission, which is another set of questions all together. I did notice there is some kind of drop bracket on the frame end of the track bar to compensate for the lift. I noticed that bracket is moving, along with the worn out ball end. Apparently it had moved around on the previous owner cause there is some bubble gum welds from the frame to the bracket which I found are cracked which explains the movement.

Did your truck have what seemed like an on and off pull to the right?

That is the fitting I am referring to. Found the fitting, identical to what I removed except not broken , at Napa. Part number from them is BK7304980. Was $15.24 after tax.

Any idea of what you might want for it?

The reason for the concern is when I got the piece of the fitting out after it broke off it had been installed with loctite for some reason instead of thread sealant. I think I found the fitting at Napa, just got to go check and make sure it is the correct one incase I do happen to end up with another broken one. Was basically trying to find out so if something does happen to on of the extra fittings I know where I could get one. I had already called everywhere around here and it was like I was speaking a different language. Found the part number online and called back and now they knew what I was talking about the whole time, lol.

The fitting in my replacement tranny is the one that is broke. The brass fitting that screws into the tranny case. It got cracked somehow during shipping. I got the remainder of the fitting out just need a replacement to install. I am planning on building the tranny I am taking out and don't want to remove the fittings from it so I don't break one of them.

Is there any compatibility issuse between a 99 47re and a 2002 truck that are going to bite me on the butt when I go to swap this tranny in? I can't ever seem to find any info when I search for anything. I did a search for fittings and 47re parts before I posted and got no results, I must need a class on searching the forum, lol. I checked out that thread you linked, thanks again. I still have yet to find the fitting. I plan on ordering that line for the temp sensor but still need the fitting in the trans that the front line screws into. I checked the DTT website and can't find anything. Tried calling several times yesterday and once today and can't get through for some reason. Must be the bad luck part of buying this truck so cheap, lol.