fire176969

I've got the baby hy35 on mine. With the HRVP and edge comp set on 5x5. Not sure how much boost it will build without the j-hook but I haven't got a cel because of it. I used a friends smarty to check for codes and have overboost codes in it but never had a light.

Have you ever had your scanner on another CTD? It might not be able to see that parameter to display it. Have ran into this problem before but never had a snap-on scanner but I would want to try it on another truck first if it was me. If it does happen to be your truck, I would replace the sensor since it could have an effect on your fuel mileage or possibly other driveability issues.

That sounds like fun, if I didn't do it all day everyday already. I have usually had enough of wrenches by the time I get done with other peoples OOPS at work.

Should have just put the 13 speed in the thing and got rid of the auto. Oh well, next time when I'm not so

I did get the write up done for the OD section of the transmission. Have the pictures of the front section and once I get a few bugs worked out I will get the write up started for the front half of the transmission. Here is a link to the OD section article. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=65:47re-teardown-od-section&catid=39&Itemid=115

I have been doing that. It first showed full at 12 quarts and have added 4 since then. I can't seem to find out if the amount of fluid is even close to normal. I've never had an auto have fluid level change so much before.

Just rebuilt my 47re and have a couple problems going on. It is slipping with the TC locked, no matter in drive or overdrive. Fluid level keeps going down with no leaks and not going into the antifreeze like a cooler is blown out or something. I have already put 16 quarts of oil in the transmission and it is showing a quart low again. Just put in a stock overhaul kit, a shift kit in the valve body and a single disc billet converter. I'm kinda lost for where to go next other than keep dumping fluid to the thing until it quits going down.

Go to NAPA and get a choke cable kit for a carburetor or a PTO cable. Should be a lot cheaper than $200. If you are looking for another route get an air switch for the power divider lock or suspension dump from a tractor trailer and run the vacuum line to it. Flip one way to send the the vacuum and then switch to release the vacuum. Have to use two switches, one for each line. What would even possibly work better would be a PTO air shift valve that way it locks in whichever position you put it in or even a combination valve like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BUYERS-PTO-PUMP-VALVE-K85DF-FEATER-DISENGAGE-RETURN-/250877570047?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item3a6977ebff

Best way to fix them is to permanently lock the axle engaged and eliminate the vacuum system. Those things are nothing but trouble IMHO. Glad mt truck doesn't have it.

I finally got my gauges installed yesterday. Airdog 150 has been on my truck for about 10 months now and I had 13 at idle. Found the ball had stuck in the spring dropping my pressure. Had to add a washer to both keep the ball out of the spring and to get the psi a little higher. Now at 17 idle and 15 WOT.

I guess my first step is to get the gauges put in. :banghead: Right now I couldn't control the EGT with anything since I have no clue what they are. I like the 90 hp injectors that my buddy has in his, but it is also an HO truck and it gets to 1500 pretty fast when towing. Not sure which route I want to go yet since my primary goal is better fuel mileage, even though at times like sled pulling or towing the power is more important. Do not recommend sled pulling with 35's on a Dana 70, first time I pulled it got me a nicely destroyed set of spider gears, lol.

No need to worry about hijacking, I was going to ask the same thing. I also wanted to go as big as a stock turbo can keep up with since it will be a while before I could upgrade the turbo. Towing and sled pulling with the truck so I don't want my EGT to skyrocket on me.

Put heads studs in one of those not to long ago. You start making up words to scream because the normal cussing just won't cover it.

The transfer case has a poppet, a.k.a detent, to keep it from jumping out of gear. Could be a weak or broken spring, or worn poppet or even the plug that keeps them in place could have come loose. I doubt the plug coming loose would be it since it just suddenly happened.

I either rebuild mine or go to napa now. Closest O-reillys is 75 miles away. I avoid advance and autozone if possible. The alternator I replaced 6 times was within 2 days on a jeep cherokee. Wouldn't even make it 5 miles before they quit working. They got pissed cause I made them start testing them longer before I took them.

Fill out your signature with your truck info to help us help you faster. Click on settings at the top of your screen and scroll down on the left side you'll see the edit signature link. As for the issue you are having need a little more details. Stick or automatic? Were you just coasting or on and off the throttle? Bumpy road?

Sorry guys, the transmission tear down had to be postponed again. Going to try for next sunday, had a pretty big paying job come up and with working double shifts i'm low on time. Thanks for being patient and not trying to hunt me down.

If you get one from autozone or anywhere that has a lifetime warranty make sure you have them test it before you leave. I went back and forth 6 times to get an alternator that would work. It is a tremendous pain, and its only a 20 minute drive for me.

What gears/tire size do you have? In OD at 55 I'm running about 1250 RPM and about 1500 at 65.

The shims are what I need to find along with specs for RV injectors. Have access to pop-testing bench at work.

Thinking about attempting to rebuild my injectors. Possibly trying to increase the power output a little in the process. Can't seem to find any good info on how to go about doing this. Biggest problem I think will be parts for them if needed. Any ideas?

Found these, might be an option for you if you can't locate anything else. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Axle-link-coil-mount-brackets-2_p_1444.html

I bought my truck with 47,000 on the odometer and it didn't run. Had a lift pump fail and it was drove until the vp died also. Funny thing is the lift pump never quit running. Fuel pressure gauge is very important after seeing that.

I'm not sure what kind of schematic you're referring to. I have a manual printed off the internet if needed but I am planning on going at it without using the manual if possible. I will be sure to note if I use the manual or not. The teardown is planned for sunday and depending on what I run into while it is apart it will probably be the next weekend before I put it back together. We'll see what happens I guess. Maybe help someone from :spend::spend: and be able to do these transmissions at home.

Yeah I agree. I really need to get gauges put in the truck before I kill something expensive. I normally just lock the TCC with the switch to get up to cruising speed and then turn it off to avoid just stomping on the pedal with it unable to unlock.