fire176969

Right now I am planning on tearing the trans apart next weekend. I've never had one of these apart before so it will be a learning experience for all. Going to get as many pics as possible. I'm not sure if any special tools are required but I'm sure if so I don't have them, lol. So if I run into that I guess I'll have a second thread to start on how to make the tools, lol.

I am definitely still planning on posting the rebuild of a 47re. Trying to wait until I can get the parts I want for it but it seems like everyone is so eager for it I might just have to tear it apart and put it back together for the sake of the pics and wait until I can get the pieces I want and do it again.

I tow in OD also, although I have a TCC lockup switch to keep mine from trying to downshift. Have to pay attention to the RPM's though cause the trans will still kick down into passing gear even with the TCC locked by the switch. With my larger than stock tires though I am running about 2300 RPM at 65 MPH with the OD off.

A friend of mine replaced his factory cac with a spearco. It dropped his egt by almost 300 degrees, have not heard anything at all about the others.

That sucks about the shop going downhill but atleast you found another place. I do know that Sears or National tire and battery will never touch any vehicle I own ever again. I took mine to both places and ended up getting into heated arguments with both guys that tried to do an alignment on my truck. One of them stated that he has been doing them for over 20 years and has never had one not right after he was done. He didn't have an answer for why he didn't test drive my truck before and after to see if anything had even changed. He also didn't know that I watched him through the garage door the second time he had the truck in there. He put the sensors on the wheels and turned the steering wheel until the numbers on the alignment machine all turned green indicating everything was good then printed the paper and parked my truck outside.

Did you change the vacuum line or anything in the vacuum system. It sounds like the booster is doing a lot more than it should be. I'm not sure exactly how the system is setup but it sounds like there should be some kind of valving to proportion the vacuum. It sounds like you are getting more assist than you should be under light brake application. Does the brake pedal return still feel like it used to before you replaced the booster? How far does the pedal travel before the brakes lock up?

Not necessarily would both tires wear if you had a toe in problem. It doesn't make sense for one tire to wear with no pull but it is possible obviously:lol: . As for measuring the toe, if thats what you were meaning by your example, you can't really go by the tread due to manufacturing differences in tires. Jack your truck up and spray paint a stripe on both front tires while rolling them and not moving the can, the using a jackstack or something to stabilize it take a screwdriver or awl and scribe a line in the paint. Set the truck back on the round and bounce the front end a couple times and take a sledge ans hit the rear of the sidewall to simulate the force of drag while driving then measure from the line scribed in the tires in both the front and the rear. The measurement should be atleast 1/16" less in the front than the rear.

Which brakes are locking up? Front or rear or both? Do those older dodges have the hydro boost or is it a vacuum booster?

Did you replace/resurface the rotors and drums when replacing the brake pads/shoes? Also need to check and see if there is any type of adjustment on the actuator rod coming out of the booster to activate the master cylinder, it could be adjusted to close and applying to much pressure to fast.

Does the truck pull to the right? Camber is not considered a tire wear angle. I agree it should be corrected but you need to look for another problem if your tires is wearing on one side, that is usually a caster or toe-in problem but it should be causing a pull to the right to wear the outside of the passenger front tire off.

Yeah, automatically thought of the engines I work on most of the time. Never even crossed my mind that these engine don't have replaceable liners. --- Update to the previous post... Yes, use it quite often to clean the cooling sytems out after oil cooler failures or injector cup failures where oil or fuel gets into the cooling system. If the are really bad you might have to run more than one bottle through, just make sure to get all of it rinsed out before you put antifreeze back in.

As far as your cooling system goes on something I'm not replacing a bunch of parts on anyway like the water pump and liner orings. What I would do is drain the system and put a gallon bottle of cascade in it and fill with water. Drive the truck at operating temp for atleast 30 minutes then drain and keep flushing it with water until all the cascade is out. If you don't like the idea of dishwasher liquid go to almost any caterpillar dealer and get a bottle of caterpillar cooling system flush. It will clean better than just water and not harm anything. As for over-torquing the head studs I don't agree with it but I know it is done all the time. Personally I would prefer to have the head fire ringed instead of over-torquing the bolts but I'm sure that isn't cheap.

If the engine is completely disassembled it wouldn't hurt and might really help it. I have used acid to clean the cooling systems of many gas powered cars and trucks and even some diesels with good results. The problem I see with trying to do that to one of these trucks would be the liner orings and other seals. Are You having problems with your cooling system?

Having a block acid dipped is a really good way to get every nook and cranny cleaned. It is very effective but also really hard to both find a place to do it anymore and also somewhere that won't charge out the butt to do it. Thanks to the EPA alot of places couldn't afford to keep the acid tanks. I agree with Mike though, you can do a more than good enough job with some hot water and over cleaner or some kind of citrus based degreaser and a scrub brush. Another good way is with a steam cleaner.

It is still in the works Just having issues with the funding. I'm considering just tearing my spare trans apart and putting it back together just so I can get the pics and everything posted. I guess the important thing is the steps to do it. I'll see if I can find some spare time here soon and tear into it and get some pictures.

Read the other forum you posted the link to. Have you thought about the clutch possibly slipping?

Well my dad actually called a little to late. I had already talked to you and installed the resistor when he called to tell me he finally found what he thought it was. Apparently there is a difference with the temp sensor between a 99 and a 02. I guess the 99 has the sensor transducer in the valve body and the 02 has the transducer in the dash. So as far as I can tell it was doubling the resistance and making it read much colder than the trans was. Now to just get the money together to rebuild the other trans before 3rd completely goes out of this one. I have a feeling it won't last long.

I wish I could keep mine running 190 as well, mine runs hotter than that constantly. Over the winter with temps 40 and under the truck would get to 190 within 5 miles and stay there with no winterfront. Didn't get much colder than 20 so I can't say how it would have been under that. Now with the temps up in the 60-70 range my temp has been running up around 210 or so just going down the highway where its level and no trailer behind it. I'm honestly considering taking the guts out of the t-stat for the summer.

I tried the resistor in the wire for the trans temp sensor. Took the truck out the road and instantly noticed a difference in shifting and finally I had od and lockup again. Still feels like it slips in 3rd gear but I'll take it for now so I can make the extra money to rebuild the trans I took out of it.

I have used the fluid film in the spray cans for flywheels and engine blocks and that kind of thing. It does work really well but really stinks and leaves a film like the name implies. I don't live near the ocean but during the winter here there is enough salt and other truck eating chemicals dumped on the road to fill an ocean. It gets a little expensive but I wash the truck as good as possible and let it sit for a day or two to dry out and then coat everything underneath with WD-40. Afriend of mine uses an old undercoating gun and used motor oil as a rust proofer. Both seem to work pretty good, I just don't want old motor oil on everything when I have to work on it.

Adding an update and adding to the confusion a little here. I swapped out the speed and temp sensors from the trans I took out of the truck and nothing changed. I took the truck for a drive and some idiot cut me off . After the road rage took over and my truck paid the price the trans shifted into od and the converter locked up. Drove for a few more miles and stopped to put fuel in the truck. Started the truck back up and had no od or lockup again. Parked the truck that evening, drove it again 2 days later and had no od or lockup. Drove it again the third day and had od and lockup after climbing a fairly long and steep hill and the engine temp hit 220. After topping the hill the truck cooled back down to 190 (thermostat) and still everything was working fine until I stopped at a stop sign. Took off and had no od or lockup yet again. Still no codes for anything. I was hoping I would be able to rebuild the trans by now but need the truck to make the money to build the trans with so I'm kinda in a catch 22. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

Put a lockable battery disconnect switch inline with the battery cables. Myself I would put a hidden toggle switch in the solenoid wire for the starter. You could even go as far as to run a switch to control the power to the vp44 controller and the fuel pump.

It should be a 12 volt solenoid so you shouldn't have done anything to hurt it by going straight to the battery. I checked the wiring diagram for a 2001 Dodge CTD, there is no wire in the Cummins diagram for exhaust brake control in the Dodge pickup. If you are concerned you have a vacuum problem also I would tee a vacuum gauge into the line at or as close to the exhaust brake as I could to see what the vacuum is there.

I would jumper that wire to ground with the engine running to see if the exhaust brake kicks on. Would definitely want to use a fused jumper wire incase there happens to be power there so you don't let the smoke out of something you can't put it back into. I'll dig around and see if I can find a diagram but that's what I would try without having a diagram.

I think I would run my own ground wire and setup a switch of my own that trips when the APPS goes back to idle.