Stanley

Have you checked for play in the shaft? Up/down & in/out Any visible grooves in housings, fins look OK, etc. I'm kinda leaning more towards a possible exhaust leak of some sort from from your card on a bicycle reference. Sounds are hard to describe and without hearing them, they can be perceived differently.

When you say rotating the turbo, are you meaning that you loosened the bolts on the turbine side and rotated the bearing housing? You can clean the gasket off by not removing turbo or clocking it. It will take time and patience but it will work. Sure taking the turbo off is easier, depends on what your doing to justify the work, additional time, and gaskets/seals. When you replaced your drain line gasket, I assume that is the only line you replaced, did you oil the turbo from oil feed side before startup? Same applies if you replaced the oil feed line too. Every time I do a drain line or supply line I make it a habit to pre oil the turbo bearings or bad things can happen. It could be that a manifold gasket is not properly centered and has an exhaust leak...

I'm the same 3.99 in Fair Grove, MO. Prolly cheaper in Springfield...

The NV5600 is not hard to rebuild, a bit clumsy to do, its completely different than the NV4500. I think it could just be the syncros and fluid from the past life. I have one of the best parts places for these transmissions here in my home town. Let me know if you need anything, and their super cheap (last time I checked).

What was exactly broken in it? There's not much to those t-cases and fairly easy to rebuild and cheap...

You could even put your own pop rivets in there. Wouldn't hurt, small and easy to do. And bolts work too as previously mentioned.

I'm in the same boat. Need entire cable setup, Then a second big bright light to tell me brake is still on lol.

I like it, done this on multiple trucks. Very nice, run it!

I got one of the big draw straws that's further up the tank. Any how I fixed it so will see how it goes. Here's my little concoction Plugged the broke section with a little epoxy and a screw, not proud of it but it works. Snipped off the connector end, put some new hose on with clamps and wala. Not to bad, even had time to make a nice bracket to hold fill hose underbed.

Since I don't use my draw straw any more, would that be a good place to return? It's pipe thread ready for a nipple...

Well I'm gonna have to splice mine in this evening somehow. I was messing with the fitting just to make sure again it was connected. Then we'll, you know, it snapped off... Guess I'll try and seal the broke end on the unit with jb weld or epoxy. Then put a nipple into the fass return tee into the fill tube.

Wow, I literally have the same issue currently! So haven't pulled it off but after cleaning and starting it and watching its definitely return leaking. Cracked nipple or bad fitting. My little line to the fitting is pretty stiff, what are yall doing just cutting and splicing a barbed fitting to the line then into filler neck? Might have enough room to put a threaded nipple into vent "y", don't think taking the vent line section out would be the best choice. I'll have to get pics but my fill for my flatbed is just a pain in the butt to do also.

Well the test drive went OK. Didn't go very far lol, fuel is to damn expensive to test drive haha. Parked the truck, mowed (7 acres) then moved truck back later, didn't notice it at the time but the starter stuck ON when I started it and I didnt noticed it till when I tried to shut it off... frantically ran to shop and grabbed 1/2 and ran like raged wildebeest back to the truck to disconnect batteries... It's a new starter from oriellys, not the best but it will work till my I rebuild oem one. So my guess is the new starter went bad quickly. I don't think it's ignition switch, I will check the starter relay though... What a day...

Checked valve lash twice, change engine oil and trans oil, done a apps reset, fired it up and its sounds great so far. Revs seems to have more pep/quicker. Might just be in my head though lol. I'll have to wait to drive it, had a few adult beverages while working, so no driving for me. That's cool! I didn't know it was the newer design...

@IBMobile yes I deed! Copious amounts always!

Here's some pics of the new stuff. @dieselautopower rockers and push rods. New vs old... Didn't get a response in the black plastic retainers. What's yall take? Edit: Well you can not remove the black plastic retainers, since they are pressed in there's no way to remove and reinstall them in the new. I guess fyi if no one knew...

Guess Ill just stay with the tried and true 10/20. My new rockers didn't come with the little black plastic retainer deals. Should I just take the old ones off and swap? I know they matter but would I be safe not using them?

Poll: Being .010 and .020 is right in the middle and the norm, with that big gap where would you prefer to have it set at and why? If not the goto normal lash 10/20... Middle, little tighter, little looser?

Rockers and push rods should be here Tues. Still haven't found my dang Chiltons manual lol... thanks for yalls input, sometimes I'm pretty indecisive... I doubt it, but I wonder if the new setup and a good lash adjustment will help with flow and egts? Oh, how long do yall usualy run new valvetrain stuff before rechecking lash? Day or two? = 2 trips to work and back ~ 120 miles/ 2hrs~

I think that is a good synopsis... @SVALIN yup those look like mine just with out mushrooming lol. I'm getting new rockers and push rods coming today. Iffy on the bridges but I think they'll be ok maybe... What's yalls thoughts on those?

Pulled everything last night. All of the look the same as the first. #1 intake push rod looked like it had the biggest mushroom or flare, but all of them had it. Is the stock ones all like that? Bridges look good to me, what's your thoughts? Gotta get ahold of @dieselautopower this morning to give them some more money lol. Let me know if yall think bridges are needed so I can add it to the order around 0930 (cst).

Yea most likely before me, I havent put that many miles on it. I would guess the guy who had it before and that dragonflow pump was doing some sketchy stuff... About 2 weeks ago I had the valve cover off and started engine running, Im pretty sure there is a video of it in this thread now that I think about it. Other than watching oil come out around everything like I did, is there a more "gooder" way of checking? I gotta find my chiltons manual, need to research the torque spec for rocker bolts. Maybe google lol... I thought it was 28ft lbs but...

Thanks @dieselautopower I assume that rocker set (in/exh) comes with everything ready to install just $86 x 6 Not a bad deal, Ill be pulling everything this evening and prolly give Mitch a call tomorrow.

Im gonna just pull them all and check. Most likely replace as my beginning thought was. Maybe @dieselautopower has a combo set or something, I seen some hamilton sets on the web that looked decent.

Didn't look, but mine came off with the long more oval shape to the outside. If you look at the pics it'll show what I'm talking about. Not sure why its bigger/oval on one side?? What's yours look like? So: Rockers = ok to run or no pushrods= mushrooming -bad? replace?