Stanley

Here's where I was at by the time I got to work this morning after some messing with it more... give or take a smidge on the numbers, theres nothing flat in southern Missouri... lol

So for how ever long I've had my back to going normally, I cannot get my timing and everything thing else figured out. I been talking, chatting with @Mopar1973Man for quite a bit over the past month plus and give him all the credit for getting me thus far, however I figured asking additional input wouldnt hurt. My egt's are through the roof! 800-900* cruising 65 mph. Slight hill or Itty bitty incline 1100*. Lord help me if I wanna pass or just even getting up to speed 1500* Oil and coolant always the same 195* give or take. Oil should be cooler. Engine load now seems to be 19-20 going 65 mph. I think this is what I was running yesterday and this morning. I have tweaked it a bit since so... I believe timing was 14,18,22,25,26 or some where close lol, it's been all-over the place lately; it doesn't matter it's all wrong and I'm just to dumb to fix this. Please be gentle.... I seriously need all the help I can get. I'm losing my mind. I want a nice daily that has a little pep than stock, just to start. I can't get there... sig is up to date, (new IJ pump not tapped), turbo and injectors billing the big contributing factors here. I will admit that I will have to compromise something for something and big injectors don't usually help egts and mpg but come on 900-1500* and 11 mpg ??? What gives? Oh and I really don't get any black smoke for what it is **testing purposes only** That will later become a inevitable side effect when a race tune is born. Idea i had.....I'd be open to doing a screen share with iQuad while driving...

@James T the pic you posted, I can't really see and oil on it? There's tons of turbos that you can slap on and work great. Bolt on + down pipe and your good to go. Alot of turbos will already come with a down pipe in some cases.

Do you have a stock clutch? Either way I think you'll need one if you don't already, along with turbo, you got a pretty hefty price tag. Little bigger and better never hurt right? Youll be fine with a little bigger one, not sure on size for ya though, someone else will prolly chime in.

I basically just re-sealed everything minus the head. It's a stock engine with cam/springs plus turbo and fuel etc. I'm gonna do a complete build process thread at some point with all that I have done to it, maybe slide show too...

Oh I been working with moparman alot on this already, but having a difficult time finding a good timing setting then all the OTHER settings, cruise timing, max load, canbus fueling, etc....... Egts are through the roof, no black smoke (not needed - just for testing purposes and tuning), I have went through 5-6 sets of injectors with dap, new vp44 (unfortunately not the dragon flow anymore) new lines and cross over tubes. Add everything else in sig+ Might still have a injector knock again, checked compression (amazing numbers) checked and set valve lash 3-4 times with in the last 2 months. Has white ish smoke on start up Long long story with everything and getting to this point but this is where I am now.

Well if you were around here I could hook you up with 4" or 5" I can't figure out any of my quad stuff lol. I guess in time I'll learn something...lol

There's an option for oil pressure on the quad but undoubtedly it's really not an option. Would be nice to have that option at some point. I agree seeing those numbers are more satisfying.

Meanwhile I wish I could just figure out my timing. Was that just playing around or do you run close to that initially?

Call C&M Gear Works. Their here close to me in Springfield, MO. I bought all my t-case and nv5600 parts/seals from them when I rebuilt both. They will have whatever you need - in your case a rear seal. Great guys, super knowledgeable and great prices! https://cmgearworks.com/

Yea I was being silly lol. There is alot to it and your correct, mostly the prep work. I think if a guy could get a decent diy setup and do some practicing, could make a pretty good side gig.

The Ole wiggle jiggle method lol. Just twisting and turning if I remember right. Clean it really good before you pull it. I was talking with @Mopar1973Man and I still don't think the spring gate would clear. Still would have interference with in drain. I forget what's it's called but it was an adjustable elbow of some sort on the compressor side I think, that you could use in place of spring or rod.

They are push in style... I got the braided line from DAP aswell but have a problem with fitment. Tried the bending etc but the rod is just not going to function properly with it, even with stock line it's limited. I need to get rid of the wastegate completely and go to a valve style. (Looking for ideas - hint hint) Super Bee Special turbo btw 64/71/14

Have 2 batteries makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside, extra security than one and MO power... Speaking of batteries, I'd like to do a battery relocate someday to under my flatbed in a "under box" I call them.

I need to double check my vents today. I'll be under it anyway pulling starter to disassemble and check again.

I might look into powder coating one of these days. Get an old oven, gun etc.., and go to town. How hard can it be right?

Yea it's on really tight. I borrowed 3/4 impact from the shop and had to heat the nut with a little torch (not to much) and the impact slowly took it off. Any part drive train wise I go to C&M Gear Works, there here in town but I think they ship too, good people and prices. $80 for yoke, straps, and bolts. Only thing from oriellys was the seal.

Little trick I used with mine, I painted the whole thing in the engine high heat paint from oriellys that I had laying around then sanded very carefully the tops of lettering and ridges, polished it then clear coat. Turned out awesome.

I have never done this! Maybe I need to give it a try and see what happens.

I can second getting a SOVP. I came from a dragon flow vp44, now a SOVP on a HO truck. DFVP44 is one of the biggest vp44's out there, made a TON of HP, but man they are a pain to deal with. Same goes with the hrvp44. Stay away from hrvp44's and go with the highly suggested sovp44. Edit/side note: HO trucks can use a SO pump but a SO truck can't use a HO pump.

I didn't know how to add to @smokeythedodge thread he has already made so here we go. Please move where needed if required. I figured I could post some helpful part numbers/info along for those looking to replace a (2002) Dana 80 pinion seal and/or pinion yoke. Sometimes obtaining part numbers can be annoying and just plain difficult. I replaced my seal due it starting to leak more as than it had. Started leaking then stopped for awhile and now just started again so I bit the bullet and dove in for repairs. I have a *flanged yoke* aside from @smokeythedodge non-flanged yoke in his thread. I have attached pictures of parts/part numbers and including the carnage on my seal and yoke. Spicer Flanged yoke pn# 3-4-14391-1X Orielly's Pinion seal pn# 100727 If anyone wants an addition to the write up, including how to remove seal and install etc. lemme know. Need to start contributing more here and I have a couple of items in my pocket I could definitely explain and help with.

AC noise check ---2nd this... I remember seeing it somewhere but cant recall where.

Still trying to figure out my tuning problems...., everything else is up to par, however I am sitting at 11/12mpg Got work to do I'd suppose.

I been wanting to get a spare head, I had one but stupidly sold it 3 years ago, then I can rebuild/port and polish as I go, hell maybe even Mill the intake off. Have everything ready to bolt on. I guess at that point just a spare engine that's freshly rebuilt with all the above wouldn't be a bad idea either. I love doing that stuff anyway.

Electric vacuum pumps and direct drive PS pumps? I did not know this kind of sorcery existed! What a brilliant idea, not so easy on the pocket book, but definitely a route to consider next time since I already built vacuum pump and got a new PS pump...