Stanley

Here's some pics of the new stuff. @dieselautopower rockers and push rods. New vs old... Didn't get a response in the black plastic retainers. What's yall take? Edit: Well you can not remove the black plastic retainers, since they are pressed in there's no way to remove and reinstall them in the new. I guess fyi if no one knew...

Guess Ill just stay with the tried and true 10/20. My new rockers didn't come with the little black plastic retainer deals. Should I just take the old ones off and swap? I know they matter but would I be safe not using them?

Poll: Being .010 and .020 is right in the middle and the norm, with that big gap where would you prefer to have it set at and why? If not the goto normal lash 10/20... Middle, little tighter, little looser?

Rockers and push rods should be here Tues. Still haven't found my dang Chiltons manual lol... thanks for yalls input, sometimes I'm pretty indecisive... I doubt it, but I wonder if the new setup and a good lash adjustment will help with flow and egts? Oh, how long do yall usualy run new valvetrain stuff before rechecking lash? Day or two? = 2 trips to work and back ~ 120 miles/ 2hrs~

I think that is a good synopsis... @SVALIN yup those look like mine just with out mushrooming lol. I'm getting new rockers and push rods coming today. Iffy on the bridges but I think they'll be ok maybe... What's yalls thoughts on those?

Pulled everything last night. All of the look the same as the first. #1 intake push rod looked like it had the biggest mushroom or flare, but all of them had it. Is the stock ones all like that? Bridges look good to me, what's your thoughts? Gotta get ahold of @dieselautopower this morning to give them some more money lol. Let me know if yall think bridges are needed so I can add it to the order around 0930 (cst).

Yea most likely before me, I havent put that many miles on it. I would guess the guy who had it before and that dragonflow pump was doing some sketchy stuff... About 2 weeks ago I had the valve cover off and started engine running, Im pretty sure there is a video of it in this thread now that I think about it. Other than watching oil come out around everything like I did, is there a more "gooder" way of checking? I gotta find my chiltons manual, need to research the torque spec for rocker bolts. Maybe google lol... I thought it was 28ft lbs but...

Thanks @dieselautopower I assume that rocker set (in/exh) comes with everything ready to install just $86 x 6 Not a bad deal, Ill be pulling everything this evening and prolly give Mitch a call tomorrow.

Im gonna just pull them all and check. Most likely replace as my beginning thought was. Maybe @dieselautopower has a combo set or something, I seen some hamilton sets on the web that looked decent.

Didn't look, but mine came off with the long more oval shape to the outside. If you look at the pics it'll show what I'm talking about. Not sure why its bigger/oval on one side?? What's yours look like? So: Rockers = ok to run or no pushrods= mushrooming -bad? replace?

Ill measure them when i get home today and see. Im thinking 7/16 just by memory visual... Be ok running these them? Those are the more expensive part of this. Im ok if I have to buy push rods, the mushrooming does set well with me. Just dont know if its kinda normal and Ill be ok or hey you need to replace those.... Maybe some of this is part of that tick/tap I hear... IDK.

Only tried it when I first pulled it out, done a quick wiggle nothing in depth and didn't have much at all, the exhaust rocker- if you were to spin it 360* it had trouble moving all the way, had some binding. Course it doesn't move 360 but that scoring/scarring is there most definitely. Yea upgraded valvetrain but that mushrooming?? I'm not 100% these are aftermarket or oem rods...

Here is some pics of #1 exhaust and intake rockers and push rods. there is a significant (mushrooming) on the intake push rod and some on exhaust. Both have bluing and one a wierd swirly on it. Rockers and fulcrum have scarring too. Only number 1. Not looking good so far. What's yalls veteran experience with this? @Silverwolf2691 @Mopar1973Man @Me78569 @SVALIN @most recents

Don't know if it's really worth my time pulling push rods yet, kinda hesitant, and it's Memorial Day lol. Thoughts? Any small inconspicuous tale tale signs to check that one might miss if I did proceed?

Sorry took a bit to get back. @Silverwolf2691 sounds are so hard to describe but if you took a syringe full of (water) and pushed it out really hard that wierd sqeakey squirting sound....? Never heard that sound on anything ive worked on, cummins or john deere. As ocd as I am and as many times I have changed these dang injectors I am super by the book on steps/torque etc. I'll admit it is extremely challenging to get all the lines torqued properly even with the tooling I have... As far as my cam/crank sensor, it's replaced. Prolly gonna make an article on install. Have my valve cover off to check valve lash again and I'm half tempted to pull the push rods to check them (for my tick-tap noise). Check what I can except valves...... Words of advise on that? Mainly just time consuming....

Thank you @Me78569 I am going to replace the cam and crank position sensors prolly this afternoon. Never changed by me so why not huh. Maybe it will help... Sounds...Its not a hard miss but still kinda- sorta sounds like one.-------Weird syringe sound by lines? Anyone know what Im talking about? Thats why I asked about the lines and tubes.

I don't believe I've changed that one yet. Worth a shot! Thanks for the tip. Still concerned about the syringe noise, never heard it before cummins or John deere. Then there's still figuring out how to tune, just can't figure it out? I'm just going to have to accept that part of the equation for now. I guess if it's running good but hot that's ok for now. 1-3 psi during cruise.

Anyone have anymore thoughts from above ^^^^? Would injector lines or cross over tubes make things go wonky if there not correct or bad perhaps? They were new but new can be junk as most prolly know... I still got that syringe sound... And of course my tic/knock - no frigggin idea.... Still lost in the sauce, I basically got a $800 boost fooler cause believe me I've tried and I simply can't figure it out. Once it clicks with what the hell needs to happen, then I'll be OK. Don't know where to start. FML

I got a few data logs for @Me78569 the one from today has a full send at the end, last little stretch of road before turning into work. I try to get the logs on the flattest parts of the drive into work. I seem to be averaging low 700*s at 65-67 mpg. Any, and I mean any little smidge of an incline and it shoots up, super sensitive. Well see what fuel mpg is once gauge shows half a tank and ill fill up again - been running the walmart marine 2 stroke oil lately. I think it runs ok for the most part, it could be better, not sure which part of the tune to try and modify first. Probably over thinking it but there might be a slight chance I have a valve issue or something internal, also found my clutch has an excessive rattle now - maybe 5k on it... iQuad-2022-05-16-06.03.201100454368[1].csv iQuad-2022-05-13-06.01.081353158434[1].csv iQuad-2022-05-13-05.56.10-1563766250[1].csv

I thought I had mentioned it earlier, but I got with dap and 6x13 are sent in and getting looked at. I went ahead and got a set of 7x.011 @320bar from them - they helped me out ALOT with these, another shout out to them for their amazing customer service. So I'm a smidgen away from .10 🤣 The above mentioned nagging issue is with the new 7x.011 set What is preferable for a log, reset while on interstate then drive a few miles/minutes and export, rinse and repeat etc? Or log whole drive into work? I am trying to accept the whole turbo issue/problem that I can't fix and I'll have to live with for now... But with the smaller ones I seriously thought it would jump down on egts and up on mpg. Oh and running AC adds 30-40 degrees to temp haha. Oil temp and coolant are always the same sometimes oil is hotter. It's definitely not in Mike's rule of thumb for timing.

Well he'll, I can't imagine pulling an rv with this thing!!! That's kinda what I'm trying to figure out, I was to the point of buying a tune but nothing is close to what I have to really work well. It's all stressing me out Mike, lol

Even with the engine load up from where it was? Average 20-21% Maybe I'll back it down again to 65 and see how it acts. I don't have any smoke right now so I was wanting to bump up the fueling a tad for a little better get up down low. But im afraid for egt sake. Boost still seems low when getting on it though.

Well I guess no matter what size injectors I get I'm still a hot mess. Average 750* cruising about 70 mph with a big increase in engine load at about 26%. I'm really not super convinced that the tick tap I got is timing, maybe a tad but I prolly got some valve issues... owell guess I'll find out when it breaks lol, pretty much have to pull the head to really find out. @Mopar1973Man when you coming to Missouri with your fix it service? I need some help! Idk if this tune is helping or hurting.

Well that just sums it up right there.

Glad you got that figured out, what a mess. I see this alot in all the heavy equipment (JD)I work on, atrocious. Welcome to the site. Speaking of lugs, I think I have to much, looks cluttered, on my posts. Been thinking about a buss bar or something to distribute wiring, mainly on drivers side, so it looks cleaner and overall better connection. I seen some things too that I'm sure you fixed, Great job overall! However your last picture shows a wire piercing connection on the brown to black wire, not a huge fan of those, too many negatives about those and never suggest them.