NIsaacs

I agree. When did you change it last and with what? Normally, when a Trac-Loc wears out the clutch's, you just have an open diff, no unusual operation. If you are getting clutch chatter when you turn, an oil change is in order. Generally, this only happens when the axle has been run and is warm. Cold, they rarely show any unusual activity. If you do rebuild the clutch's, be sure and get a complete rebuild kit, including center pin, axle gears and spider gears. Like this: https://torqueking.com/product/40430/qu40430-dana-80-trac-lok-dana-inner-differential-parts-overhaul-kit/ Again, if you do repair the clutch's, there are no shims to mess with. The carrier will just fall out and fall back together. The reason being, the carrier bearings/races will be worn/loose. If they are bad, you will need to change them. This is where shims come into play (they are behind the bearings) and they (bearings) press on and off. This is also a very difficult process and will require experience in Dana set up. The Dana axle is the most difficult of all axles to rebuild/set up. What wil440 is talking about is a housing spreader. The Dana housing should be spread for easier install of the carrier with new bearings. However, it can be done without one, just takes longer and ya gotta cuss a lot, Lol. This is one area where I disagree with John.....The Trac-Loc is a fine, strong, long wearing unit and will almost last forever with good maintenance. He is an off highway guru, lol. Most good quality gear oil has the friction modifier included, read the specs. If not, you need the additive. Since you tow, I recommend 85/140 regular oil or 75/140 synthetic . Additive: https://torqueking.com/product/40218/qu40218-dana-4-ounce-bottle-limited-slip-lube-for-powr-loc-trac-loc/ Picture of open and limited slip:

Can you tell if the slop is the bearing or just the rubber cushion? They are prone to rot away. The cushion is available separate. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=center%2Bsupport%2Bbearing&referer=semantic&se=1#

The only free manual I could find is this 1995 Ford Class A owner manual. It might help some. circuit breakers are on page 155. Fuel pump feed is #18 and or possibly #13. fuses on page 147 The pages are off by about 3 or 4 so you have to think outside the box to find them https://www.manualslib.com/products/Ford-Class-A-Chassis-3114896.html

I think Isspro will have the larger adapter fitting. You would need to drill it out and tap the next size, 1/4" if yours is 1/8". I doubt a pipe plug will seal either so that is out. If it would, you could drill another small hole for the adapter fitting you have. Pipe thread is tapered so you have to be careful and not go too deep with the tap. The deeper you go the bigger the threads. Fixing the hole you have with a larger one might be best so you don't drill another one.

Can you take a picture of the fitting and thermocouple? Is it this type? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/isspro-658sht/isspro-gauge-accessories If so, the fitting should be 1/8" NPT and should snug up with a turn or two.

Not bad at all! I might have beat that tho Made a round trip from home (Snowflake, AZ) to Mesa, AZ to pickup this trailer for my son, 7300 lbs. 340 miles, 21.5 gal=15.81 mpg. Keep in mind, this route is some of the worst ever. My home is 5800' elevation, I climb to 7800' then descend to 1500' with several mountain ranges along the way, with miles and miles of 6-7% grades....then turn around and climb back up the mountain with the trailer....

I reused mine as well, torqued to 120 lbs, with a Napa/Fel-Pro gasket. No retorque, 5 years and 100k miles ago.

Unless you already know what the gear ratio's are in the new truck, I would hang on to the tires that are on it. With 4.10's, you will need them. Even with 3.73's and the low 1st and 6th gear of the G-56 AD, you still might need them. Since hot shot hauling you can't always know what the weights are that you haul/tow, the bigger, higher tire capacity is a plus. What size are they? The 3rd gen trucks are heavy, empty...don't cut yourself short.

Will that work? Is the fan blades reversed also so that it will still blow and not suck, in your application?

Is your heater core Mopar or aftermarket? I wonder if there is a difference in flow/efficiency?

It is restricted for a reason, to protect the heater core from too much flow when the t-stat is shut. When I did my Cummins conversion on my '74 Ford I had to use the heater hose nipple from my gasser. When I did my first start I had a bunch of guys watching. When I revved it up one of the guys shut me down, he said the heater hose was swelling up. The full flow nipple was too much. Are you running a 190 t-stat?

Some info here: https://mopar1973man.com/topic/18070-can-someone-help-with-factory-height/ This set might work. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCE2775414?partTypeName=Coil+Spring+Set+-+Front&keywordInput=front+springs

Sometimes the output rod length to the master cylinder is off. Some are adjustable, some you may need to grind shorter. What happens is they can hold the master cylinder down slightly.

It is some old aluminum tubing from an RV awning that I filled up with 1/8" strap. Here is a link to the u-bolts I used. You do need to drill out the holes in the bottom spring clamp. They were easy to drill. The original u-bolts are too small and mine were rusted almost in half where they pass though the clamp. It is a catch all for mud/dirt. I bolted the new block to the overloads and the head of the bolt will fit in the original block. http://www.stengelbros.net/product.asp?itemid=14433

Starting to agree, a little Hauled a load of manure yesterday. I noticed a quieter engine at cruise, less smoke at low boost with some throttle, more responsive launch at idle and no rpm rise when stopping. I do still have a slightly longer overnight start with a half a tank of fuel. I am just going to run it until it gets worse, right now it is hit or miss. I will report back when I get some miles on it to see if the fuel mileage went up any. EGT's went down (level 3) but so did power. I have a load of cinders to deliver today, going back to my favorite level (5) and see. The temps are a lot cooler now. I was running on level 2 and 3 all summer.

I would check your toe in, they need some, about 1/8". Picture of my 285/75x16 tires with only 4/32's tread left, all original front end parts, 350K miles. Still has a good wear pattern for a 4x4 with a slight edge wear. I rotate about every 6-7k miles. I haul heavy, mostly off highway so I am hard on tires, about 28k on these.

If this is with an empty truck you have way too much air in them. 5-10 psi is enough, that is what I run in my Ford and '91 Dodge. I do not run bags on my '01. I also never add air when I load it up. As the springs sag with added weight the bag psi goes up on it's own, as they compress. Since I don't run bags on the '01, I added a block between the main springs and overloads for quicker contact, more capacity and used larger u-bolts. My truck is not leveled. When you tow or haul heavy in the truck, you need the oem rake, it is there for a reason.

No, power has nothing to do with syncro's. The clutch is released (no power) when you shift. Syncro's can be bad (poor quality) from the get go, bad shifting habits, the wrong oil type or poor maintenance, or poor releasing clutch, are possible reasons for early failure.

Installed the new injectors and tubes today. I haven't driven it yet, but it seems slightly quieter at idle. I did forget to plug the tps in, so now I have a check engine light, but I guess it will go off after a bit. Four hours for me to R&R. I didn't see anything unusual on the old pieces. I saved the tubes and mailed the injector cores back.

I am running it on level 2 now, tow mode. It pulls fine on that setting and holds the EGT's good. It was hard for me to get out of the level 5 setting because that was where I used it for years when I traveled sled pulling. However, I spent most of my time on two lane roads and needed/wanted the passing power. I have finally realized with my local roads/hauling, it is very rare to pass. There are still times I would like a higher setting (when a Ford pulls beside me with an 8" exhaust tip) but unless I am stopped I don't mess with it. I have tried to set it on the fly but I always touch the screen in the wrong place (my truck is rough) and end up on a different page and mess it all up.

I have not contacted them at all, however, maybe they read this forum, they just shipped today

10 weeks now, still waiting....

Which type seal did you use, rubber or teflon? The teflon one goes on dry. The biggest issue with a rear main seal is getting the retainer centered with the crank, block and oil pan. Take a few extra bolts out of the pan near the back for some clearance for the retainer. Use a couple of screw drivers between the block and pan to get some clearance. Then let the crank center the seal/retainer, you will need to make sure the bottom of the retainer is square with the pan. The real early industrial blocks had dowel pins for the retainer, they were self-centering.

Yes, I should have said most do.... Mine

That's apples and oranges. Hydraulic systems all use return filtration. Even your wood splitter. The bypass valve in the filters will save the system from high return pressure.