int3man

O.K. Well some how between being sent the link and ordering I ended up with a 2003 iQuad instead of the 2001 that I wanted. So they were kind enough to exchange it. Now back to waiting game. The sad part is I just got the truck out of the body shop. I'm adding the Fuel pressure sensor. I think it's important. Thanks All Michael

And does it have a Trans Temp option? Thanks

Hi All Newbie here. So the iQuad doesn't monitor fuel pressure levels? I removed the Edge and it did have the Fuel pressure gauge. I guess the solution is to install a 3 pillar with a fuel gauge, EGT and a Oil pressure gauge as a back up? I'll be towing every now and then would a Trans temp be more desirable? Or I guess can the Fuel pressure be added to the iQuad? Is there a Spare input? Well I just opened the box and read the instructions. I should have lead with that. Fuel pressure is available with an optional input. Still like advise for a3 pillar gauge pod. I like the old mechanical gauges. Thanks for your time and advise. Michael

Mine was similar intermittent cut out. The Fuel System Relay was greasy internally and intermittently dropping out. Good Luck Michael

HI All, Does anyone know what series Metra pak plugs are used on my 2001 Dodge? There are several sensors with the locks on the Metra paks broken and I wish to replace them. Thanks Michael

Hi All, I added 2 stroke for the first time this last weekend. And I agree that the idle sounds different. Not as Clacky as before! A Bonus!! Could just be wishful thinking but I don't think so. Michael

Do these have a separate tag that Identifies the gears internally? The old Dodges and Chryslers did, it was on one of the cover bolts. My Automatic 2500 has a Dana 80 in it! I was assuming that the gears were what was in the Vin Sticker. There is that word!! Thanks Michael

Have to Chime in here. Just a side note. I just purchased a ODBLINK XL at Mopar1973Man suggestion. I was impressed when I set the Boost gauge up on the Android screen and it read 14 PSI with the engine off. Seeing that I am 60-70 feet above sea level that is pretty dead on. I was going to diagnose my intermittent Oil Pressure Gauge on my 2001 but after looking at the loom I think that I will wait for the started to take a break and then work on the loom from below. Michael

Hi 2000Ram2500, No expert here but I (2001) chased an intermittent 1689 only to find out that the Fuel System Relay in the PDC was / is Bad. Making intermittent contact, random cut outs, getting worse, and worse. I just swapped it with a spare relay and the problem went away. Your mileage may vary. Good luck with your hunt. Michael

HI All, Mine is a federal and the Grid heaters have been off for a long time. No Codes. Michael

Passed Smog and Truck is now in my name!!!! Yippie!! Thanks All Michael

So am I looking at more meat around the dowel pin, or just the end of the hole smaller? Is there a casting number somewhere on the cover that allows us to tell from the outside? Date Cut off? Nothing that organized I assume.

So my question is. Is it possible to look with a borescope and see if the plate is in place? Go in through the breather hole. Thanks Michael O.K. Thanks for that. I appreciate it. Now I'm new to this so I have to ask, can you remove the breather and look down in there with a bore scope or something to get a peek and see if it has been done? I bought this second hand and I don't know what has been done. Thanks Michael

Is there a link to the KDP? Now my knees are knocking! Is there a fix that prevents catastrophic failure? Thanks Michael

O.K. Truck is running strong. I passed Smog today. Life is good once more. For me P1689 The FUEL SYSTEM RELAY was causing the grief. My problem solved. Your mileage may vary. Michael

O.K. So I'll bite how do you tell if you are lucky enough to have a KDP option. And keeping in mind that this motor was gone through. But the way my luck has been running. Thanks Michael

Yes it could be as easy as that. P1689 The FUEL SYSTEM RELAY was causing the grief. I swapped it with a spare relay and have driven it for 3 trips no Hick-ups. I'll post again in a week to verify. If it was in there since new it had 318,972 miles on it. So I took the old relay out and checked it out, it was greasy internally. If it was dielectric grease that explains a lot. Relays have contacts in them that need to make good contact, when you coat that contact area with non-conducting grease you shrink the surface are able to contact. This increases the possibility of welding or arching. When the relay or contact releases the current wants to continue to flow and it will arch as the two surfaces separate. Once the surface area gets small enough they will weld together at higher current. We used to have trouble with this on the 120 amp contactors for D.C. Power units. The bus garage mechanics would coat the cable ends at the contactor with the red anti-corrosion battery terminal protector. It would seep into the non IP67 contactors and dirty up the contacts. That treatment is only for the Battery end not Starter motor or elsewhere. Now to get through SMOG. Michael

Nope Somebody is still pissed! Can't catch a break. Drove it this morning after sitting overnight to put a heat cycle on it. Died leaving the driveway, Coughed in route, stalled during cool down and threw the CEL. Got home pulling P1689 Communication to VP44; P1693 Code in Companion Module; P0622 Generator Field. I replaced the Generator and was clear of this code. New ODEBEC II scanner arriving today. Michael So I'm searching P1689 and found this little jewel. Brought to us by Mopar1973man. Thanks Mike Could it be as simple as all that ? Now to play relay mechanic! Michael Swapped relay with Spare. Will test drive. Got 4K ohms to ground on the relay. Seems High! 12.5 volts from battery, need to check across relay. W-T has been done but the Alt output still runs to the drivers side. Measured 43 MV with my fluke from the battery terminal to the Alt post. I have to look that one up. Michael

Yea I was looking at the Vent blockage. I saw a truck for sale and the guy had an Ipad on a Windshield gooseneck, I found a 4 foot clamp on Gooseneck that I have attached to the seat base. I was trying to place the screen above the cup holder. I just need to fabricate a bracket and move this over to the passenger seat. Just need to get past smog. I want to own this before I get more monies invested in it. It has skin cancer on the hood and front fenders. and the Left rear Drivers door. Thanks for your time. I'll google fold down screen. Michael

Hi all, getting closer to getting the Piggy to Smog and closer to ownership. So I am planning on Quadzilla. I see that some of the Motorized screens offered Android screens Single DIN mount. So my questions are what fits a 2001. Are Android apps installable from the google store using your phone as a hot spot? I guess that would require WIFI as well. Bluetooth Phone Must Bluetooth Quadzilla Possible ODBEC II reader Bluetooth Back up camera would be another option. So that's what I'm looking for. Any one with experience? Thanks Michael

Well Fingers crossed. I dove back in, I had to remove the air horn to get to the VP44 Electrical. it was "Clean" and well Greased. So I kept going. So much for only changing one thing at a time. I pulled the ECM and cleaned the silicone seal at the bottom of the connector. Greased the pins with electrical improvement Grease. Wire brushed the Back side of the ECM where it was supposed to make contact with the block for ground. Greased all that with improved conductivity grease. Went over to the Passenger side and reworked the grounds for the PCM. Caught a little body ground on the drives side. I was reading an article that stated these Electronic controlled truck like clean good grounds. And traced out the mystery switches under the dash. Turns out that one of them was powering a Diesel eliminator box. So I found the instructions for that and yanked it out buy it's teeth! So Thanks to Mopar1973man I've "amazoned" a Blue tooth ODBEC11 reader (ScanTool OBDLink LX Bluetooth) that will allow me to read and reset the ECM Code that is pending. I'll report back next week after I get this piggy smoged! I hope! Thanks All Michael

Well I don't know whom I pissed off in this deal but it must have been someone important. So got home yesterday, drove the truck to put another heat cycle on it and clear the monitors. No Problem. Get up this morning to heat her up and go to the smog station. She dies in the driveway. Restart and she throws the check engine light. So No Smog this weekend. But she thru a code that said failure to communicate with VP44. So I'm disconnecting the batteries and pulling off the air horn and AAPS and inspecting and cleaning the plug to the VP44. One thing at a time. Hopefully this will put it to bed.

Not suggesting that you do it. But I saw a you tube where he got a Cummins to run with 3 wires? Something like that, it was a 24 valve I believe. But he didn't show where he drove the truck. And it is You tube. I would see what The Electronics guru has to say. Michael

Not to Hi-Jack this thread but. What will read the ECM Engine codes? It is my understanding that the cheaper ones will not read the ECM codes? Thanks! Michael

HI All, Fell and banged my knee getting of the stepstool to work on the engine (like a friend said 20 years ago it wouldn't have mattered, three days later still limping!), so I had time on my hands. So I ran an internet search this weekend. I found over 75 postings on the internet of the same problem, but no firm replies, I did this and that fixed it. So I found 3-4 that I think are the best options. Clean ECM contacts, Clean VP44 contacts. That makes sense as if you loose the fuel shut off signal, you loose engine function. That's what is it like you momentarily loose fuel!!! Last one was there is a 5 volt wire on the lower right hand side of the engine, that might rub on the AC line. Oh Yea, the other one was check the engine compartment grounds. I serviced the Battery terminals, but not the other ends!!!! Get home this weekend. Michael