dave110

I'm not much help but here's a link to a thread I started a while back. Some good suggestions although there are probably new offerings out there by now.

I never knew they had 4WAL in 96. Other than that what you have done is what I would have suggested.

I did a lot of research on this years back because I was so sure I'd do it one day. One day hasn't come yet. My memory was fuzzy but I dug up some old threads I had saved on another forum. If the engine does not even roll over then the middle black wire in the 3 wire plug to the Auto needs to be grounded. That is the wire for the NSS witch is no longer there because the Auto. is MIA. The 2 outside wires are for backup lites. If you simply ground the black wire the truck should start but the CC won't work because the truck thinks the trans is always in neutral. You should run that wire to the clutch safety switch if you have one. If not get one and use it then the CC will work too. Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out.

@98whitelightnin has done this swap. I tagged him for you.

Post a question down in the website forum. There's been some changes here lately and some permissions might have changed, not sure.

No that's not normal. Just kidding. I never realized there were celcius temp. gauges. Mine runs at 190-195 F. on a 190 degree F. t-stat. When you buy a t-stat up there do they come in celcius? Just curious. It does appear to be a little cool according to the normal range on the gauge.

If mine ever makes a million I'll buy the wife an oven big enough to put the whole dang engine in

In my case it kept a dying VP going for a while longer. Each case might be different though.

I did that with the last IP I had because of hard hot starts. Worked for a while. I used 2 relays in line to power the LP. 1 triggered off the ECM and 1 triggered off the power window fuse. That way the ECM is still in control, but power is cut 100% when cranking. Remember if the pump is wired to a key on hot and you're in a wreck the pump will keep running pumping fuel on the fire if there is one. Just something to think about.

https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting-1 will tell you how to hot wire the pump. I stole the link from Dripley's other post

Makes sense. I remember when the GM techs had ALDL keys they carried with them that plugged into an interface under the dash. The odometer would then flash in a sequence that was read similar to morse code.

As far as I know emissions codes came in 96 with the arrival of OBD2. In my state (of confusion) pre 1996 vehicles are only subject to a visual emissions inspection because OBD1 did not read the emission codes. Cali vehicles are most likely different.

For those who don't know I've discovered that LED are polarity specific where incadescent bulbs don't care which way the current flows through them.

Just itching to wrench on that head again aren't you?

80-90 gear oil for the summer..........................

I just read your signature. Glad I wasn't drinking a beer cause it would be all over my lap from laughing. That's funny right there.

Welcome to my world. 11 miles to work and 7 stop signs. Hard to make good mileage like that. Tires and brakes wear out a lot sooner too. Stop and go is hard on any vehicle. I'm usually around 16-17 around here.

Yep, sure is.

I learned something new the hard way the other day. I have a lawn tractor that is wired to have the headlights on all the time.. no switch. I went to the local alternator shop and bought a pair of 1156 LED direct replacements to put in figuring they would not get so hot and to help the charging system out. Put them in, started the tractor and nice bright lights. Took my tools to the bench and came back to darkness and the unmistakable stench of burnt electrics. Smoked the new LED's within a few seconds. I took them back and explained what happened to the old fellow there and he went on to explain that on a small engine charging system lights are run off the AC side and battery charging is DC. I was a little upset because he didn't tell me that when I bought them and I made it clear what I planned to use them for, and I was skeptical about the AC/DC explanation. I decided to check it out before going any further. I went home and started the tractor and put my meter on the light connector and sure enough it was 12.6 VAC. while on the battery VDC was present. I found a wire that was DC and hot with ignition on and used it to trigger a relay for the lights to run off the battery. LED's are in and happy now. So while LED's might say they are a direct replacement for a certain incadesent bulb you need to be sure of the application. FYI

I agree. I'd have to look to be sure but I remember it being just more than my 150lb torque wrench. 280 seems like too much. Yeah here we go

Keep 'pecking' away at it.

All this could be avoided by going back to the old fashioned way of handing out 'it's a girl' cigars

I like that. Could even put the brush in a drill and slowly spin it and work it in and out.

It's how they recouped all the money spent on the Carter lift pump

The last few pages of this thread talk about this subject.