Gregturley

In the future after putting the fitting on hose flush hose with water and blow out with air. Helps get rid of crap.

I've heard good things about the FTE and thought about using one without a muffler. I'd like to get more sound out of it but i guess I'm just trying to justify it for another reason than sound alone.

@CAMG3X have you thought about pulling your tank and cleaning it really good?

Looking for opinions on installing 4" exhaust. Any noticeable power increase over stock exhaust? Any noticeable drop in EGT? Aluminized or stainless? Muffler or straight pipe? Not worried about loudness as much as droning. What brand? Diamond Eyes, MBRP or something else? Thanks for any advice.

Ok didn't see that pic before and i eliminated my electric pump so I didn't use that part. I think you're correct though that looks to be pipe fittings. Once you get your bugs out of your set up i think you'll really like it. Just be careful not to over tighten the belt. It runs loose to the point you will think its going to go flying off.

@niebs_22 use paste or tape on anything with a pipe thread. Anything with a flare seals metal to metal. And i guess technically i lied. There are special sealants to use with JIC but thats typically for worn out fittings or extreme pressure situations. But never paste or tape and its not something the average person would have in their garage. What check valve are you talking about? If its the pressure valve that came with the fuel boss those should be JIC also. You can do a Google search on JIC vs AN fittings and learn a lot of good info.

That tee in your pic is not pipe thread. Its JIC. Its a flare fitting. They seal with a metal to metal fit. Do not use tape or paste on them. If they are leaking they are not tight enough, cracked, something. Don't listen to anyone who says use sealer of any kind on them, they are wrong. They do not seal through the threads.

At 20" vacuum this actuator lifted and held a 20 pound brake rotor for about a half hour. I was surprised with how strong it is.

The way we tested AN hoses we made up for the drag car was cap off one end, put a low pressure gauge say 30 psi max in line with it and pressurize the hose. Let it set and watch the gauge. If it dropped it was leaking. Kind of anal but it works. Spray bottle with soapy water will pinpoint the leak.

I didn't drop my tank when i did mine. Just cut the plastic line off and went from there up. Didn't do anything with the basket and have 18psi all the time.

Mechanical pumps will typically increase pressure with rpm

@niebs_22 driving pressure is low. Check your relief valve make sure you don't have any crap holding it open.

The actuator i used is for the ac system on a late model vic. God knows how long it will last under the truck but i have a near endless supply of them. I mounted it as far away heat as i could. Thinking this may help when using a stock valve body. I was thinking about buying a Dynamic valve body with my Trump money but I've got my buddy Thompson whispering in my ear. Guess i have a decision to make soon. @IBMobile I'll see what I can do with that.

Good point @Dieselfuture i assumed it would have been plumbed correctly and not trying to draw thru an electric pump. That could cause issues.

So.....my experiment continues. I added a vacuum actuator to pull the throttle valve (kick down) wide open on exhaust brake application. This will max out line pressure when the exhaust brake is on. Teed into the apply vacuum line and used a vacuum actuator from a crown vic and a bike hand brake cable. Drilled a small hole in the tv arm and made a bracket to mount the vacuum actuator. Used some old Holley carb mechanical choke parts to clamp down the cable. Zip tied to trans cross member for testing. This was all crap i had in the garage. Initial testing looks good. Everything moves freely both directions.

An air leak will definitely affect electric or mechanical in a bad way. All i was saying is that it is not normal with a mechanical only set up. There is a problem that needs to be fixed.

@niebs_22 you have a leak somewhere or a bad pump. If you have a leak on the return side it may be very different to find. I and many others have went pure mechanical with no electric lift pump an have no starting problems. These pumps move more volume and pressure than any electric pump can. More RPM, more volume and pressure. They are more reliable than anything electric. What mechanical pump did you use?

I edited the wiring diagram in the exhaust brake article to show diode placement. @Ironforger pre turbo shows more accurate cylinder temp. Post turbo is usually said to be about 200°F cooler. If I'm off on that number someone will correct me.

@dripley Pacbrake instructions say 99-up is 1 piece. My 01 stock hy35 is 1 piece, the hx35 on the truck now is 2.

@gimmie11s that's the exhaust housing for 94-02 according to Pacbrake. If you have a turbo that has a one piece flange you have to change to C14098 Adapter, #8 in parts list in pdf L1018.pdf from Pacbrake. Its the same part on the older turbos so if you have one or can find one just swap it to your turbo.

I found a flaw in my wiring. I had to add a diode to my led. I cooked 2 leds from current spikes from the coil of the solenoid when turned off. I used a diode from the under hood fuse box of a late model ford. I need to make a change to my wiring diagram. I'll edit it tomorrow.

@dieselautopower got it up and working. Wrote my 1st article on here about it. Seems to cut down warm up time pretty good and slows the truck good with converter locked in 3rd but haven't towed or hauled with it yet. Pacbrake seems like a good company to deal with. Guy there spent about 10 minutes on phone with me answered all my questions and verified part numbers for me.

Check out my exhaust brake article. 1st article I've ever done (and redone after Mike's input). I tried to cover everything and give a few different ways to wire it up. Rebuilding an exhaust brake

Thanks but im looking for an electrical valve

@Royal Squire if you need a new air cylinder they are easier and cheaper to find than vacuum cylinders. Good luck with it. I'm trying to find the solenoid valve cheaper somewhere. Got a Numatics number off it but have hard time finding it. That same valve can be used to make a 4wd low lockout set up also. @gimmie11s i found a used turbo on Facebook marketplace and worked out a trade. When i met the guy he said "got this too if you want it." and threw it in with the deal, nothing extra. He never mentioned it when we were talking.