LorenS

As I recall, that's what the plug looks like. Alas, even if I get it connected to this laptop, I have no idea what to do and cannot find any documentation to guide me! I tried to download the iQuadBT app to this laptop from the Play Store but if I succeeded, I sure can't find it to open it! I'm pretty certain I should've just bought an XZT, if anything. I'm clearly a computer ignoramus.

The joy of buying used is that the appropriate cord is apparently missing. The fact this isn't even mentioned in any documentation I can find on their website is absurd. I have no idea how to plug this into a computer. Same kind of plug as a Garmin GPS? I may have one of those cords somewhere, not sure.

Has anyone utilized "Spare" fuse number 16 for providing ignition signal to a tuner, etc.? Wiring diagram page 8W-12-6 shows that the fuse would be powered in both the RUN position and the Accessories position. I'm not sure if it's bad for the Adrenaline to get power while the engine isn't running; I can't imagine it'd draw more than the radio, which is the only time I really use the ACC position. Would be nice to be able to view Quad without my blasted grid heater drawing juice or the engine running. Quad recommends Fuse 9, and it differs in that it gets power in the START and RUN positions, but not ACC. Anyone see a downside to what I propose?

I know you addressed this to M1973M, but I will chime in anyway. I believe for fuel pressure you will want a stand alone gauge or a dummy light that comes on if pressure drops too low. I installed a dummy light in my ex girlfriend's truck a long time ago. One day while towing my Airstream, about 3 miles after filling up with diesel the light came on. Immediately stopped and walked to buy 3 new fuel filters. Had to change filter twice before all the crap we got at that filling station was cleared from the tank. Phones and tablets get stolen or break. If that happens, you lose your gauges! Not cool on a $$$$ VP44 injection pump.

You NEED some way to know if you're losing lift pump pressure. That should be first "upgrade" and I suggest a real gauge, even if you get a tuner (like a Quadzilla Adrenaline) that can display that pressure on your phone or tablet (optional feature). I like my gauges on the A pillar, some don't. I wish I had purchased the 3 hole pillar, in hindsight. I put third gen wheels on my truck and love the look. I put on third gen steering, love that, too. I replaced track bar with a stock unit a few thousand miles ago, and will do so again when it wears out. AC Delco "professional" from Rock Auto, I believe it's the exact same as the better one from NAPA. If you drive like an adult and keep tires reasonably sized, I can't believe a steering brace is needed. Stock air filter with quality filter is very good. Big Honking Air Filter isn't a bad choice, either, as mopar1973man and others have proven. I run a stock pump, but relocated to the frame. When I moved it I also installed a draw straw and 3/8" fuel hoses. I cleaned a lot of trash off of the pickup screen in the tank, like half a beer can full. All of this raised my pressure from 5-7 psi, to 9-14. Also put the required screen ahead of my lift pump. Other than the lift pump gauge, the W-T Ground modification may be the most important. It's an Article for 2nd Gens, just look for it, or open another browser and Google it, it will lead back to this website ?

Bought the used Adrenaline that was listed in the classifieds, and got my adapter from DAP. With the sub-par diagnostic procedures on Quad's website I am left with a paperweight. Any tips out there? The IQuadBT is not showing up as available in the app or to my phone's software. I have moved the jumper. It should have power and ignition on signal, and ground is straight to a clean battery terminal bolt. I have popped the hood and stood beside the BT to maximize signal. I have tried with the engine running and with just ignition on. Fuses all good, per ohm meter.

It's super easy to do the swap yourself. I got mine from retrofitsource.com

@Threadzy your housings look exactly like the ANZO units I messed around with for a while. I finally gave up and just put in HID projectors. Now I love my lights!

I'l have to check that out. Of course, the only way to know if it worked is to drive around to see if I engine dies again long before I'm out of fuel. The two times my truck has died, I was able to put in less than 30 gallons. So, it's not that the fuel gauge isn't telling me I have fuel when I don't, it's that the truck sucks air when I go down hill with only 7 gallons in the tank! Both times I was only a few hundred feet from the diesel pump to which I was heading.

@RockAuto needs to see this, in my opinion. Maybe they'll work to improve.

Considering I live at 97th, that's likely my place! Thanks!

Anyone have replacement radiator supplier preferences? Mine is leaking at the tank gasket. I don't need a super-duty, haul 25,000 uphill in the desert model.

Rock Auto is the worst. They absolutely refuse to work with a person when dealing with FedEx. Somewhere in this world is a front brake disc that FedEx days was delivered to my dad's shop. FedEx says they have the proof of delivery, yet will not send to me - my dad said he never signed for it - and RA refuses to view the delivery confirmation online or contact FedEx to allow them to share with me. So, I'm out $70. They also sell rear parking brake cables for 2002, 2500 trucks equipped with drum brakes. Unicorns. So, I'm out $11 there, too. They sell brake discs out of one warehouse and pads from another; more lunacy that costs more in shipping. They have good pricing but customer service is awful.

"every A/T3W tire is qualified by USTMA and TRAC for the Three Peak Mountain Snow Flake (3PMSF) symbol" Maybe THOSE will be my next tire! I had a set of BF Goodrich Commercial Traction tires on my old C20 Chevy and my 1995 K1500 Suburban, and they had the three peak mountain snowflake. Absolutely wonderful in the snow and pasture, and they didn't self destruct in the summer heat, either. They did ride a little rough for the poor half-ton Burb, though! Resolved by only running ~30 PSIG. Those BFGs don't come in 17s, last I checked, which is why I didn't buy them.

"under hood mouse nest delete" HA!

I love my tires (see signature). Have 40k miles on them and they still have over 3/8" of tread; they start at I believe 17/32". This is only my first set of tires on my truck, so can't really compare with others. I don't run heavy, around 7,800 pounds, and do a lot of highway driving to construction sites to reach 30k miles per year. Even my daily commute to the office is 98% interstate. I'd buy them again, but plan to try Cooper's American-made tires when I finally need a set, just to support my country. Can't complain about the Yokohamas at all. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+A%2FT+G015&partnum=67SR7G015

My fuel pressure sporadically changes and considering all the prior investigating I have done, I am wondering if a weak Overflow Valve could be the culprit, or if the ECM is commanding full flow. Seems my fuel pressure will go up a little AFTER a long pull, like maybe the VP44 senses its brain is getting hot and needs more flow to help cool it. My fuel pressure sensor is at the inlet of the VP44, which is equipped with a big, long-sweep Vulcan-supplied fitting, not a banjo bolt. I see the procedure for testing the Overflow Valve regulator is on page 14-84 of the manual (1618 of 2939 in the PDF) and seems pretty easy. Has anyone found this item to be a problem? I can't find my exploded VP44 diagram to know if this is before or after the internal pump, not do I know if that would really affect my pressure reading. On the plus side, if this valve is opening earlier and flowing more, that ought to keep my VP44 nice and cool. I have 10 PSIG even accelerating up hill, and sometimes my fuel pressure will go up to 14 (which almost never happens, even cold fuel at idle).

Holy smokes, a fused ankle? Certainly take your time with recovery, doesn't sound to me like anything that should be rushed. I hope you're feeling okay.

I'll be northbound tomorrow in the morning, southbound Wednesday evening. And will do it again every two weeks for at least a couple months. Sporadically after that.

@Blueox01, if you're interested in parting with your HX35, please let me know! I'd like to upgrade from my HY. Every two weeks I make my way up I-29 from Kansas City so should be able to meet you in Bellevue or anywhere around the area convenient for you.

Glad I could help!

If they're molded in, then you'll have to change them on the truck side. The kit I bought for HIDs, I could change it on the light side. I believe this is correct: https://headlightreviews.com/9004-9007-wiring-difference/ Towards the middle of the webpage there's a view from the back of the plugs, if that helps more. https://carhidkits.com/hid-kit-installation-guide/

That's what I figured, but wanted to be sure. Thanks!

Where do the NPT fittings go in this assembly?

Sure is. Pretty darn good deal if someone already has clear lenses!