CSM

If you need to hit a certain number of degrees on the alignment, check out my article... long winded but it has a table that converts inches to degrees for a two tape measure alignment.

Go find a parking lot on a sunday.

Tst products

Be careful. When my fuel sending unit failed it did the same thing. It would read higher and higher as it wore out. I ended up empty with a quarter tank left.

I'm a big tst fan as well. The smarty tst stack is my favorite thus far. Though, if smarty comes out with a 2nd gen UDC for the touch this year it will probably eclipse the S03 smarty by a big margin.

I don't know where I'm at and I'm right there with you.

Well, you are reaching the limits of my generalities and experience... Without seeing your truck, it is hard to say. It sure sounds like you have enough air, and bigger injectors wouldn't hurt you if it is all clean in theory. I would want to pick some brains at ATS and a couple other vendors too... hopefully somebody else here will chime in. I just don't have any experience with that turbo. Studs, in my opinion, are a definite need over 40psi. Long towing and extended driving over 20-25psi will shorten the lifespan of the head gasket. I think the main killer of head gaskets (generally) is poor coolant maintenance. IF folks changed their coolant annually or even every other year, it would mean a lot less problems with the head gasket. Studs don't hurt, but they aren't required for MOST singles.

Don't get me wrong, the comp will get you more top end with what you got. I am just talking about where I like to tune the comp / smarty stack to... That is the technique I use to find my "happy spot." My technique is different when using the Smarty for timing or something that I can directly adjust the timing. With the comp, as the levels go up, the fuel and timing increase. You increase the rate of the fuel increase with the sublevel.

In all seriousness though, I ran that stack for a while. Not a bad stack. You get the timing from the Edge and fuel from both. I never got a tune I loved, but it was fast. The on the fly tuning of the comp was nice if I decided to get crazy, or if I needed a softer touch for towing or slow moving traffic. Settings really depend on your setup and taste. All I can say is experiment, and start with the torque management settings at 1 or 2 at the most. Then, once you get something you like, you can try raising the torque management in the smarty. make sure to run no timing from the smarty. Any tuner is hard on things. How hot you get it, how much boost you run, etc, will dictate how much pain you put into the system. If you're just looking for a bit more speed up top (which I understand) then i would probably run the Smarty on a mid level even number, and the Comp on 3-4 with the fueling adjusted to the desired haze level. With 50hp injectors, you will max out the fuel of those injectors with that stack. If you have enough air, you will just reach a hazy point of diminishing returns... if you don't have enough air for that amount of fuel, then it will get slower, smokier, and hotter. I don't like being above the clean point of diminishing returns, as I am choked by my injectors and likely asking the VP to push way more fuel at higher pressure than it normally does. ETA; I did read online somewhere that the torque limit of the Dana 70 is 1750ft lb continuous. That means that if your engine is putting out 714 ft lb in first gear, you are at that limitation and you are hugely reducing the lifespan of the axle. Thats only 244 hp at 1800 RPM if the truck is static and trying to get a trailer started (or do a burnout). So, after my experience, getting heavy loads started fast with the tuners is bad juju. My axle was abused prior to me getting it, but I also towed hard and though I kept it under 25psi, I still think I did some of the damage. Max rated momentary torque is up near 7000 ft lb. Note, torque breaks parts. not horsepower. The lower the RPM, the harder it is on things for a given horsepower.

Don't do burnouts.

Any other parts you needed other than the top and bottom plates? Blocks? E brake cable?

I think I found an 01.5 one. 1000 bucks. These things are kinds hard to find.

Looks like drums... but I don't know if they are interchangeable. I kinda doubt it.

I'm looking for a 01.5 to 02 dana 80... if anybody has one...

Is there any markings on the axle to make certain what I have? I am going to pull the remaining good axle and check the splines, but how do we tell a 70U from a 70?

Or... just buy a 3rd gen and don't do crazy mods? haha.

I was too... which is why I redid my driveshaft. I never thought I'd kill a dana 60 or 70. I really think it was badly abused by the previous owner. It does look like if I can get the torn up hub off and broken shaft out that I will be able to chase the threads and reassemble. I am just worried that the force that pushed the hub off bent or damaged the differential or center section bearings. If I can't get the shaft out of the tube I'm going to need to totally disassemble it and push it out backwards.

You've got a dana 80. Much beefier unit than mine.

Huh. I am kinda bummed as well... I'm not sure what's missing there. I wonder what it would have done with the 12. How's the butt dyno feel?

This is what happens when I get stuck on dog monitor duty at 1 am while my sister is having a baby. Dumb crap... lol. though, I think it would have failed this year based off how easy it failed and the two flats indicating pre existing cracks in the axle. At. Nitto.

I'm running stockers. The turbo just began to spool when it popped. Probably 5psi at the most.

Im rebuilding it. I'm not shortening my one piece driveshaft for an 80... it was cracked in two places, which is really odd. I'm willing to bet a set of yukon axles will be fine after this.

https://imgur.com/H6oKXoM https://imgur.com/a/1HKhw

So, when back in my home town on some R&R/family time, I decided to do a simple quick, 5 sec burnout just for kicks and grins... right in front of my folks place just like old times. The turbo began to spool all normal, and BANG, followed by some minor crunchy sounds. No pictures as of yet, but upon removing what used to be the cap on the axle, out fell several one inch triangles of axle, metal chips, and the bearing adjusting nut that formerly held the bearings. Near as I can tell, the axle broke and wedged itself in there and pushed the hub off about a half inch or so, breaking the nut as it came off. The hub won't even come off as the bearings are wedged in there. They move slightly, but won't make it past the messed up tube and threads.

Ok, dumb questions... 6.7 manifold drop in for a 5.9 truck? What are 451s going for these days? After seeing your adrunio controller the other day, I really wish I had done this rather than my 62. For my dad's 3rd gen Rams, that adrunio controller and a 451 would be SICK!