CSM

Weird.

I don't know, but I think I broke a moog today. Im probably going to be changing mine soon.

So the gauge is at 14 even when it is off? Check your needle valve, might have bumped closed.

You and I need to go for a drive. Smarty isn't the end all of tuners by any means, but it is good value for me with the code reader and a fairly versatile tuner.

my bad. Even!

Personally, I like the smarty when properly tuned. I hate it when it is off. The owner/designer of the smarty really hasn't said anything about how it really works. All we know is from testing and guessing. I do find that it needs more at high RPM when I am horsing around though. I would try odd numbers and your edge too, that isn't a bad stack, but I never found a tune that I was happy with.

Drum or disk? Ebrake dragging?

It is vague what torque management does on the early autos... it may change how the PCM shifts and it may change the fueling at low speed. As it is supposed to work, torque management reduces the fuel below 35mph based on a multiplication factor. It isn't as big of a deal on manuals, but can make autos shift early and hard. It can really be hard on things, but can make it faster. It requires you to drive the shift points with your right foot carefully at times. I like driving lazier so I keep it at 2 and just turn on the TST if I want mongo power. Duration will allow you to fine tune the injector pulse duration from a given catcher level. basically more or less fuel. It is fine to tow with added timing and in fact better, just don't start with revo at 4. However, it is hard to add too much timing with a VP44. I would test it out and add timing to 3 and see how it sounds. It shouldn't be too knocky and sound like a 12v, but I can hear a difference between 3 and 4 timing, so I keep it at 3 max for my altitude. Just don't run on odd catcher tunes with the edge turned on. I think i am running as follows high altitude 6000 ft tune SW 3, TM 2, Timing 3, Duration 3 Low altitude < 1500 ft tune SW 3 or 5, TM2-3, Timing 2, Duration 3 With my 62, 125s, and low stall torque converter it is mostly smoke free and good spooling. At low altitude it was near instant spool and very good power.

I could be wrong, but I've installed two on two different trucks and the different was significant to me.

Keep an eye on your tires. Mine were unhappy when it was levelled and I was constantly rotating.

If your apps is stock, just go buy a timbo's apps. The resolution is far better and the truck drives better, the cruise works better, and the trans shifts smoother.

It isn't for everybody. The smarty, well tuned, is how the truck should have come from the factory. It isn't plug and play. If you want to stack, play around with the catcher levels and the edge levels. It will push a lot harder off the line with the smarty than with the edge alone. I like the TST - smarty stack. I have the smarty tuned for a really nice daily driver, but the TST can add crazy fuel if necessary for whatever.

Don't stack timing. Read the back of the smarty and don't use the +timing tunes with the edge. The smarty adds a minimum of 60hp on a stock truck regardless of the level. The higher the number the more agressively it gets that extra hp. With injectors and turbo/exhaust mods, you will see more than 60hp... possibly a lot more. For driving I really like the catcher on 3, then mess with Revo settings. Start with torque management on 1 or 2, get a tune you like, THEN adjust torque management. i find the trans gets really unhappy at higher torque management settings. Adjust duration up if you want more fuel. You can adjust timing a bit, and at your altitude I might try 3 and see how it runs. A lot of it is just tune, drive a couple miles, retune, etc. It will take a few iterations to find something you like. The theory behind it is long winded and complicated. For a simple method I start with fuel, and add fuel til I am happy with the throttle feel once the turbo gets spooled. You don't want too much timing, so it really knocks a ton as that is overly hard on stuff. However, you don't want too little, as your EGTs will get too high if the fuel doesn't have time to burn. Too little timing is really evident at higher RPM it seems with the VP44/smarty. Then after adding timing, I usually add one level of fuel, see how it drives and then drop back down if it is not smooth or is too smoky. The key is one step at a time, think about it, and then one more step change. Write the revo settings down with notes to keep track. Then, once it is all done, adjust torque management out of 1 or 2 and see how badly it shifts. Then go back to 1 or two... mabe three... haah.

I agree with you, wholeheartedly. Ive seen it as well in fires, farms, and oil. I loathe the EPA above all, including the IRS. However, the only real lasting thing that occured with their love in was to remove the spotlight from the ranchers being screwed and shifted it to some sort of real life reality show. I hope the Hammonds sue the hell out of the DoJ, BLM, et al. eventually. Yet now they have a far harder time gaining practical sympathy and judicial momentum. Im done with my soapbox, but I felt a responsibility as bod to post an opinion on the site.

Same here. I generally stay out of it and read the comments.

What is your point, Mike?

What about the basket on the line going into the box? isn't there a screen there? Could that be filled with crap or perhaps that ball/slot thing isn't aligned properly?

Was the area under the curve the same, corrected? Also, I agree with ah64.

Dont think I havent noticed. Just kidding around mike.

That's right, theres looking good carrying it. Thats where Mopar Man really has it together.

Plus, the government has shown that it can't keep secrets. Our enemies and organized crime would have the access in short order.

This is why I carry a pistol.

That sucks. I have mixed feelings with the Spokane Coeurdalene region... I spent some time at Fairchild. The steam plant and The Volstead Act are amazing.

I didnt see that there was no ecm signal... Sounds like ecm.

If youre lucky, it's the bulb... You can do a cluster test for the bulb here If that doesnt work, id start watching for a used ecm.