CSM

Does this mean that the tent (tarp) in the back of the truck is a thing of the past?

I still have the y link I have off my 02. I can measure that.

I dont know about the 4th gen... i didnt research that. I dont know what to think without comparing the parts.

I haven't gone out and checked them, but I read quite a few forums on this topic on CF and elsewhere and it seemed pretty much the case. I wonder if guys are installing the new style into the old taper and just torquing the bolts til its tight. I wish I had more concrete info, but that is the best I got.

@The_Hammer Here is what I found. 94-99 old style taper knuckles and pitman arm 00-02 trucks have new style taper in knuckles and pitman arm 03-08 trucks have the new style same as the 00-02 08.5-12 trucks also have the same taper as the 00-02 and 03-08 trucks

98 99 and 00 through 02 are different parts. The hammers article is for early, mine is for late. Check the articles. I think the hammers might be in 12v. I will answer any questions you have.

Its good tech.

MOAR! Excellent series done by an old retired machinist and shop teacher. Machine Shop Tips. Taps, tapping, threads, how to PROPERLY use a file, all you ever wanted to know about drill bits, how to properly use a helicoil, etc. Whole playlist Files, for example.

Cummins used to make and supply the Dodge techs with a stand alone pigtail that would let the engine run at idle with the VP plugged into it. We have talked about it here before but I don't have the details on it. So it is possible, but finding that info might take a while. I never put a ton of work into it. it would be possible to make a stand alone harness, just pull everything out of a truck and rig it on a test stand with some batteries. However, I don't know if it is worth the hassle unless you plan on test running a bunch of engines.

Good deal! Nice that you have the history and a local contact to assist with it.

Canadian, and all other socialized medicine works because you pay so much. We as a country pay for the world's drugs, research and tools.

the rich just aren't paying their fair share, bro. I deal with government healthcare. The bureaucracy sucks and it is designed by default to not give me or my family anything. Just like today, I just spent 4 hours trying to get a doctors visit for my wife and I got the finger. She MIGHT get in in a week... or a month due to a lazy jerk who didn't bother to send one email. There are individuals that do try in the system, but the system isn't for the benefit of the user. The best most reliable coverage I have had was through Halliburton and was heavily subsidized by the company, but it still wasn't cheap and was well over $100/mo + a $2000 deductable for non routine care.

I'm convinced this is the real reason why guys run external kill switches on street rods, not because they run that fast at the track.

I haven't seen your issue. For starters, here is the TSB on the codes in detail. In my experience with these trucks there are three "easy" possible problems that cause weird electrical problems. Your alternator is putting out enough AC due to a bad rectifier to cause bad signals. This has or is killing your sensors, PCM and ECM if this is the case and needs checked. There is an article about testing the alternator as well. Bad batteries. If your batteries are off, you could see some weird things. If you replace one, replace both. Bad or intermittent grounds. After these three, it starts to get more involved. I would check the TSB and alternator articles, see if you have good voltage on the batteries individually with cables disconnected, and then start running through the TSB stuff.

The issue I've got is that I need a new seat foam on the drivers side. Mopar doesn't make them any more.

That is the most country new song i've heard in a while that didn't come from Brad Paisley or a handful of others.

I can swap a carbureted small block mopar in and out in a couple hours. The Cummins engines should be quick if it weren't for all the electrical connections (I haven't pulled one yet)... Although it helps that we have a backhoe and two front end loader tractors rather than mess with a cherry picker. What takes the most time on the Cummins? Hyd clutch? Electrical? It can't be fuel or exhaust.

What he says about torque is the key. You may get some bearing/gear surface wear at high horsepower levels, but nobody other than Bonneville racers maintain that high of HP levels. HP doesn't kill most parts. Torque does. Beasty twins coupled with big tires and clutch dumps is what kills transmissions. For most normal mortals, this isn't a concern.

You're gonna need lots of rail road ties.

Honestly, if the red six speed truck that you posted looks as nice as it sounds, I would consider buying it. However, know that the truck is likely going to need a fair amount of stuff over the next few years. These days, I would rather have a truck that has been driven often but nicely than a low mileage truck. My real tie breakers would be any obvious lack of maintenance, underbody and suspension rust, and interior. If the truck drives and shifts good outside of that, whatever. I would expect a clutch and VP in the next 100,000 mi along with some suspension components.

This is possibly the best reference material ever.

Ohhh.... want.... You know the guy? that picture is at the former Black Hills building at 6th and Indiana just south of the mall.

That is where I am at when it comes to trucks. If I can't look at it, I really don't want to buy it. I've hooked up the trailer and come back empty from getting a car or truck several times.

If you sell it your truck will break down. Your truck seems like the sort that would keep running just out of it's stubborn Mexican pride.

Greenlee, ever use one of these? It is a rebadged Miller.