hdpwipmonkey

Sorry for your family's loss.

Looking forward to this report

Did the weird charge issue go away after replacing the PCM? Here is some info for the 1899 code.

Drilled and slotted. They came as a package from Rock Auto.

I have the Z36 on mine. Good stopping power. I about put myself through the windshield the first time i took it out after putting them on. Night and day from the ones that were on there when I bought the truck. I don't tow anything heavy so I can't say how well they work for that. I had them on for about a year but so far I really like them.

Those are awesome!

When I was thinking about putting the OEM filter back in with my system I was just going to get the FASS big line kit. It has the fittings and about a 3ft section of hose if you need it. About $50 https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-18586-fass-bbrk-1001-big-line-kit-banjo-bolt-replacement-kit-985-02-59l-dodge-cummins.aspx

Glad you figured it out.

If your pillar gauge and Quad are both saying 0 PSI then I think you got a problem with the turbo or a major boost leak (like a boot completely knocked loose). Your pillar gauge should get its pressure reading directly from the intake not the MAP sensor so with both of them reading 0 you really do have no boost. Unless your pillar gauge decided to die at this exact time

I'd remove the Quadzilla and connect up everything as stock and see how the truck runs. If it runs normal then I'd return the Quadzilla and get another. Sounds like an issue with the Quad.

Did the testing that I linked above show anything?

I put a FASS in mine. I did it myself. It's not difficult to install. If you have to have a shop do it, Pure Addiction is the only one I know in Hillsboro area. They are a little on the expensive side (probably because they are one of the only choices in town).

Glad its working good now. As for the lift pump, ultimately you'll want about 15 PSI or higher at all times to ensure the fuel is circulating through the VP44 (the overpressure opens at ~13psi). You're numbers aren't too bad but I wouldn't wait too long to get a better lift pump on there. If you only have to run it like this for 3 weeks to get it into the shop then I think you'll be ok, just keep an eye on that pressure reading. I see you're in Hillsboro, I'm just down the road in Cornelius. What shop are you taking it to for the lift pump?

I didn't see you say anything about the condition of the batteries. Maybe you have a short in one and drawing down both so bad that the starter won't fully engage...

Moose Mode

I looked in the FSM and for the stock lift pump on the side of the engine, it said normal current flow was 12A. I'm surprised it is that high...

I don't know for sure but FASS uses a 10A fuse for it's system, I can't see a small in-tank pump using more than that. You can check under the hood and see what size fuse is used for the factory pump (I think there is one in the PDC for the fuel pump ). The only true way to know is if you can connect it up and run it and check it with a meter like IBMobile said.

If you are still getting the 1689 code, you can try running through this for testing the ECM to injection pump comms. my bet is you got water somewhere it wasn't supposed to be and now you have corrosion that is hampering the connection. When you pull the connectors for the ECM and injection pump put a little dielectric grease on them when you plug them back in to prevent any future corrosion on them. You already replaced the ECM and the injection pump so it can't really be much else for 1689...

When I installed my FASS system a few years ago it came with the plug that you plugged into the connector that powered your stock fuel pump. Now they have it set up to plug into a ignition powered fuse under the hood (I don't know why they they changed). So you need to take the single red wire from the FASS supplied wire harness and using a butt connector connect it to the fuse tap (Add-A-Fuse) connector and then that fuse tap connector will get plugged into the fuse box under the hood. This picture is from their online manual.

I haven't heard of either of those two but the W-T ground mod is the important one that everyone seems to do (including me). Or the simplified version

I haven't checked mine but a quick internet search turned up a size of 21mm. Not sure how accurate that is though.

Driver's side, near the rear of the engine.

Awesome. Good to know. Our current weather here is high 50's to 60's so somewhat cool enough to trigger the grid heaters but not really needed. Might just disconnect them till winter.

I wouldn't mess around, I would just replace them. I've seen pictures of what happens when they stick closed. Your truck goes into "meltdown" mode. I think I saw on here that leaving them unhooked will trip a check engine light but if you're ok with that then leave them unhooked. I think @IBMobile has an article on how to do a switch for them that won't trip the CEL. That's what I plan on doing to my truck.