IBMobile

I would swap the fuel pump relay with another relay in the PDC and Fords have a fuel pump inertia kill switch under the dash that you might want to check. It's been my experience that a high pressure fuel pump will most likely fail on start up where the pump armature is binding and the voltage can't over come the drag. The pump may or may not work if tapped on. The problem may be in the ignition system with a failure on the primary side of the coils causing a general no spark condition.

So we'll never know if it was or not. If the duct temp goes below 32° there is a chance of the evaporator freezing and causing a blockage in the system. One type of thermometer can give a different reading than another. I've used a non contact thermometer to measure duct temps and have see readings change within seconds of each other with duct temps in the twenties and teens. A basic analog thermometer reacts slower and I've never seen a duct temp below 32° with one.

Was the A/C compressor clutch cycling on and off before adding 134A and if so how quickly was it doing it, the shorter the on/off cycle time the lower the amount of refrigerant in the system. How much 134a did you add? If the A/C clutch is staying engaged and the accumulator is cold with a duct temp of 34°-40° I'd call it good.

The pump pushes the fluid through really fast so on an empty system just starting and stopping the engine in a couple of seconds will empty the P/S pump reservoir. do this a few times until the reservoir stays full. Also there will be a lot of air entrained in the system and may take a day or two to purge it all and the steering may fell jerky until then.

JAG, this may help you diagnose the A/C problem.

For $60 I'd give it a try and see if I could save $800. I know that you're on a time line with that trailer but for that kind of money I'd move the pick up time back. I've rebuilt a few Mitsubishi turbos and taking it slow, keeping the rebuild area clean, and having the right snap ring plyers the jobs a piece of cake. Halve of the job is taking the turbo off and on which you would be doing anyway with the replacement unit.

That's what an oil drain plug kit is for.

The repair shops for MBZ and Volvo dealers that I go to suck the engine oil and trans fluid out the dip stick tube, don't bother with the drain plug at all.

If it's so good why don't any auto or truck manufacture install them? Because there not legal.

That's about what mine runs with the 4:10 rear end and about 2000 rom at 62.

Try this, connect a 14-12 gauge wire to the starter solenoid terminal that the brown wire from the starter motor relay attaches. Place an alligator clip to the other end of the wire and the wire should reach the battery. Keep the alligator clip isolated from grounding or power, I usually attach the clip to a piece of plastic near the battery. The next time the starter will not work touch the alligator clip to the positive post on the battery and see what happens. This bypasses the ignition switch, starter inhibitor switch, starter relay, and all the related wiring. If the starter works then your problem is up stream and I'd check the relay next. If it doesn't work then you have a bad starter.

JAG, I've seen you shoot. Get the cat to do it.

That sucks but at least you got it home. How many miles on it?

Now that's putting some miles on, 40k in just over a year!

redone So the red wire to terminal 86 is powered from fuse B or C in the PDC for the right or left head light respectively. Does the power to terminal 86 stop when the fuse is pulled? The yellow wire to terminal 85 should go to pin 20 in the high beam selector switch via the red/orange wire and is a ground. The black and white wires should be switched. Fused battery power to terminal 30 (black wire) and switched power out of relay through terminal 87 (white wire) to high beam terminals of the blubs.

This is another way of looking at it.

The other day I needed to take an intake manifold off a Volvo and one of the 10mm bolt heads is partway behind a thermostat housing. The distance between the manifold and the housing is about .30". A Snap-on 10mm crows foot is to thick to fit and would have to be ground down. Harbor Freight's 10mm crows foot was .27" thick and came in a seven piece set for $10.

Keep it up you big cluck and this is where you're headed.

I don't think you can cook brake fluid like you can trans fluid and the rubber in the cap is OK. I got the same results in the brake fluid reservoir that you got when steeping on the brake peddle, no fluid movement observed. This is from the FSM page 5-18 CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION Slow Brake Pedal Return 1. Excessive seal friction in booster. 1. Replace booster. 2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster. 3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose. 4. Damaged input rod. 4. Replace booster. BOOSTER FUCTION TEST page 5-17 With the engine off depress the brake pedal several times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push back against your foot. This indicates the booster is operating properly. I think you have a bad booster and the problem may be the spool valve is binding.

Wire diagram for 2 relay set up?

I'm glade to hear that the damage is not to extensive and may be easily fixed. That's one of the reasons I have a high def dash cam in my work van, see who did what with no he said she said BS.

Where's a good ice age when you need one?

I'm glade you're OK but that sucks. Do you have collision coverage on the truck?

There should be power to terminal 30 of the high beam relay only when low beams are on. When high beam is selected power is sent to terminal 86 and the coil is energized then the power will flow from terminal 30 to 87. When the head lights are turned on and there is power to terminal 87 and not 30 then I think the plug for the relay is is wired backwards.

The valve body needs a simple mod to get it to lock up in 2nd.