IBMobile

I tow about 9,000lb with a 4:10 diff and 245/75-16 tires, engine turning 1800-2000rpm at 55-62 RPM all day long in 4th (OD). No luging here.

The beauty of this is you can go to the Olive Garden for dinner and get your truck detailed too. Can't do that at Chick-fil-A.

I don't think a spacer is needed with a 265. Check this site out for tire size tools. https://tiresize.com/tires/Dodge/Ram/2001/3500-QuadCab-2wd-Dually/

Is that Italian or Portuguese virgin or extra virgin olive oil?

JAG1 and I went up the side of a mountain to get this picture. The camp ground we stay at is in the valley below just out of sight to the left.

I'll be getting there Friday afternoon on the 18th. This will be the first stop of a 4 week trip for me and my wife. I have 10 pair of solar glasses, a 10'x10' shade canopy, and a pot of coffee. Even if you can't stay till Monday for the eclipse come on down for a couple of days of meet and greet camping.

This is what I added to JAG1's truck. this guy was under JAG1's truck helping

If it isn't broke, don't fix it.

No, Oil on or in wires will not cause any interference nor will it cause a problem with connections.

The restriction is after the Raptor acting the way a fuel pressure regulator does in a gas fuel injected engine.

Restriction in the system between Raptor fuel pump →VP44→tank. Return valve sticking?

I would swap the fuel pump relay with another relay in the PDC and Fords have a fuel pump inertia kill switch under the dash that you might want to check. It's been my experience that a high pressure fuel pump will most likely fail on start up where the pump armature is binding and the voltage can't over come the drag. The pump may or may not work if tapped on. The problem may be in the ignition system with a failure on the primary side of the coils causing a general no spark condition.

So we'll never know if it was or not. If the duct temp goes below 32° there is a chance of the evaporator freezing and causing a blockage in the system. One type of thermometer can give a different reading than another. I've used a non contact thermometer to measure duct temps and have see readings change within seconds of each other with duct temps in the twenties and teens. A basic analog thermometer reacts slower and I've never seen a duct temp below 32° with one.

Was the A/C compressor clutch cycling on and off before adding 134A and if so how quickly was it doing it, the shorter the on/off cycle time the lower the amount of refrigerant in the system. How much 134a did you add? If the A/C clutch is staying engaged and the accumulator is cold with a duct temp of 34°-40° I'd call it good.

The pump pushes the fluid through really fast so on an empty system just starting and stopping the engine in a couple of seconds will empty the P/S pump reservoir. do this a few times until the reservoir stays full. Also there will be a lot of air entrained in the system and may take a day or two to purge it all and the steering may fell jerky until then.

JAG, this may help you diagnose the A/C problem.

For $60 I'd give it a try and see if I could save $800. I know that you're on a time line with that trailer but for that kind of money I'd move the pick up time back. I've rebuilt a few Mitsubishi turbos and taking it slow, keeping the rebuild area clean, and having the right snap ring plyers the jobs a piece of cake. Halve of the job is taking the turbo off and on which you would be doing anyway with the replacement unit.

That's what an oil drain plug kit is for.

The repair shops for MBZ and Volvo dealers that I go to suck the engine oil and trans fluid out the dip stick tube, don't bother with the drain plug at all.

If it's so good why don't any auto or truck manufacture install them? Because there not legal.

That's about what mine runs with the 4:10 rear end and about 2000 rom at 62.

Try this, connect a 14-12 gauge wire to the starter solenoid terminal that the brown wire from the starter motor relay attaches. Place an alligator clip to the other end of the wire and the wire should reach the battery. Keep the alligator clip isolated from grounding or power, I usually attach the clip to a piece of plastic near the battery. The next time the starter will not work touch the alligator clip to the positive post on the battery and see what happens. This bypasses the ignition switch, starter inhibitor switch, starter relay, and all the related wiring. If the starter works then your problem is up stream and I'd check the relay next. If it doesn't work then you have a bad starter.

JAG, I've seen you shoot. Get the cat to do it.

That sucks but at least you got it home. How many miles on it?