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Last time out with the 5th wheel the right side fender decided to customize itself. I was wondering if any one else has had this happen and what they did or have an idea. New replacements are $150 each which I think is a lot for molded ABS. There is aluminum trim fenders for $90 each or rubber trim for $50 for two. One other thought was take the other side off and have fiberglass copies made by one of my customers that glasses surfboards. http://www.icondirect.com/keystone-5th-wheel-travel-trailer-fender-skirts-fs710/ http://www.trailer-fenders.com/tandem-axle http://pacerperformance.com/products-footer/flexy-flares/universal/no-lip-side-mount/led-smoke-hi-5-cab-roof-light-kit-88-02-gm-style-detail

This web site has several web cams at different bird nests. You can waste a bit of time watching an eagle feeding it's eaglet or may be not.. http://www.decoraheaglecamalerts.com/

All of last year (1-1-2015/12-31-2015) my truck was driven just over 4,000 miles and the batteries are fine. If you're worried about a lead sulfate problem the truck would have to not run for months at a time. Driving the truck around a few times a month will keep the lead sulfate problem at bay. Don't do a short drive/idle cycle, the battery will further discharged and the alternator can not fully replace what's been taken out by the starter motor. Batteries naturally discharge over time and sitting in a vehicle with a patristic drain does not help. If you add high temps to the equation, 77° or higher, a battery will go flat that much quicker. Lead sulfate crystals will coat the plates and harden. When this happens the battery's ability to recharge is impaired and it's load capacity greatly diminished.

with that terminal clamp cracked your basically running on battery. Think of it this way, if the nut holding the cable to the starter motor was loose how well do you think the starter motor would work. You can buy battery cable ends at any auto supply store for an interim fix until you get that cable replaced. Order a new one or find a battery supply house that also makes custom cables or make them your self. http://custombatterycables.com/application/dodge_ram.htm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlEUqZSyo4I I see that the battery was manufactured in12/2012 so it's 3 years and 3 mo. old. The installation date tag was never punched out but batteries are usually installed within a couple of months of being produced.

Had the same problem a couple of years a go. I replaced the starter and all was good. The contacts in the starter solenoid were bad causing the starter motor to turn slow. Another year it was low voltage/amperage in the batteries causing the same problem. These engines like to spin fast making compression to fire off.

When backing up into a tight confined area, especially at night I use 2 way radios. I put one on the dash and have my spotter talk me in with the other. Think of it, the back end of that trailer is 40' from where your sitting.

This article from Engine Builders may answer your questions. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/1998/07/valve-stem-seals-materials-and-designs/

That's the type of grease that the axle manufacturer recommends for the wheel bearing of my 5th wheel. I found it in the Penns Oil brand at Wal Mart one year and bought every tub of it they had. I haven't seen it, Penns Oil brand, there since. I have blue grease loaded in my bearing buddies on the boat trailer. The best boat wheel bearing grease I've found is the Mystik JT-6 high performance marine grease. It's extra tacky and not runny/watery like Sta-Lub marine grease.

I found this article interesting about warped brake rotors. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

Thanks for the info and good work. I like how you used the flat washer between the nut and tool so there is no damage to the tool.

Sunset Sky in San Marcos, CA

Check out this video and there's a bunch more on the same subject. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCLXcY6Wy6k

A 2001 dodge ram will take 32oz of 134A for a full charge in empty system. http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refrigerant-and-oil-capacities/dodge-light-truck

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL When an air conditioning system is assembled at the factory, all components except the compressor are refrigerant oil free. After the refrigerant system has been charged and operated, the refrigerant oil in the compressor is dispersed throughout the refrigerant system. The accumulator, evaporator, condenser, and compressor will each retain a significant amount of the needed refrigerant oil. It is important to have the correct amount of oil in the refrigerant system. This ensures proper lubrication of the compressor. Too little oil will result in damage to the compressor. Too much oil will reduce .the cooling capacity of the air conditioning system. It will not be necessary to check the oil level in the compressor or to add oil, unless there has been an oil loss. An oil loss may occur due to a rupture or leak from a refrigerant line, a connector fitting, a component, or a component seal. If a leak occurs, add 30 milliliters (1 fluid ounce) of refrigerant oil to the refrigerant system after the repair has been made. Refrigerant oil loss will be evident at the leak point by the presence of a wet, shiny surface around the leak. Refrigerant oil must be added when a accumulator, evaporator coil, or condenser are replaced. See the Refrigerant Oil Capacities chart. When a compressor is replaced, the refrigerant oil must be drained from the old compressor and measured. Drain all of the refrigerant oil from the new compressor, then fill the new compressor with the same amount of refrigerant oil that was drained out of the old compressor. Refrigerant Oil Capacities A/C System 210ml 6.2oz Accumulator 60ml 2oz Condenser 30ml 1oz Evaporator 60ml 2oz Compressor drain and measure the oil from the old compressor - see text. The above is from the 2001 Dodge Ram service repair manual, section 24 Heating & Air Conditioning, subsection Plumbing, page 24-57. Draining the compressor then adding 7oz of oil to it might over fill the A/C system.

You my find this shot article on packing an RV helpful. http://www.rversonline.org/99ConfRVPacking.html

See if you can find a can of 134A that also has an oil charge in it. Sometimes I find them with 2oz of 134a and 2oz of PAG oil or a can with 11OZ of 134A , 2oz of PAG oil and seal conditioner. You might want something like this;http://www.autozone.com/a-c-charging-and-refrigerant-freon/r134a-refrigerant/quest-r-134a-plus-refrigerant-not-for-hybrid-vehicles-with-electrical-driven-compressors/233038_0_0/?checkfit=true Remember that a 12oz can is equal to ¾ of a pound so 3 cans will give you 2.25 lb. It is better to under fill a system than to over fill it though you want to get as close to the volume required as possible.

You may want to replace the accumulator. It separators the oil from the 134A and it also has a desiccant bag for absorbing moisture in the system. If the system has been opened for any length of time the desiccant bag is saturated. This will allow the unabsorbed moisture the possibility of freezing at the expansion valve and causing a blockage in the system and no cool is the result. Yes, you need to replace the oil that is lost when you change a component. The evaporator take 2oz of PAG oil and another 2oz if you do the accumulator. When changing any component you'll want to replace the O-rings for the fittings. Before charging the system you'll want to use the vacuum pump to draw the system into a vacuum. This will not only remove the air that's in there but also, and the main reason, remove moisture.

The only way to really know what's going on in the Steering/hydro boost system is to put a pressure gauge on the pump and see what the pressures are when in operation. This video may help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9rgkZ_R-Mc

Face south, stay still, now moss can grow on your back side.

1. From U. S. Department of Energy: Alternative Fuels Data Center: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/biodiesel_blends.html "Pure biodiesel (B100) contains about 8% less energy per gallon than petroleum diesel. For B20, this translates to a 1% to 2% difference, but most B20 users report no noticeable difference in performance or fuel economy." 2. From U.S. Department of Energy: National Renewable Energy Laboratory: 100,000-Mile Evaluation of Buses Operated on Biodiesel Blend (20): http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy07osti/40128.pdf "The fuel economy for both petroleum diesel and B20 groups was 4.41 mpg based on in-use fleet data. An approximately 2% reduction in fuel economy for B20 was measured in laboratory emission testing." 3. From Pacific Biodiesel: http://www.biodiesel.com/biodiesel/benefits/ "I want my MPG! Many alternative fuels have difficulty gaining acceptance because they do not provide similar performance to their petroleum counterparts. Pure biodiesel and biodiesel blended with petroleum diesel fuel provide very similar horsepower, torque, and fuel mileage compared to petroleum diesel fuel. In its pure form, typical biodiesel will have an energy content 5%-10% lower than typical petroleum diesel. However it should be noted that petroleum diesel fuel energy content can vary as much as 15% from one supplier to the next. The lower energy content of biodiesel translates into slightly reduced performance when biodiesel is used in 100% form, although users typically report little noticeable change in mileage or performance. When blended with petroleum diesel at B20 levels, there is less than 2% change in fuel energy content, with users typically reporting no noticeable change in mileage or economy. Superior Lubrication for Your Engine The injection system of many diesel engines relies on the fuel to lubricate its parts. The degree to which fuel provides proper lubrication is its lubricity. Low lubricity petroleum diesel fuel can cause premature failure of injection system components and decreased performance. Biodiesel provides excellent lubricity to the fuel injection system. Recently, with the introduction of low sulfur and ultra low sulfur diesel fuel, many of the compounds which previously provided lubricating properties to petrodiesel fuel have been removed. By blending biodiesel in amounts as little as 5%, the lubricity of ultra low sulfur diesel can be dramatically improved, and the life of an engine’s fuel injection system extended" 4. From GAS2: http://gas2.org/2008/04/10/biodiesel-mythbuster-20-twenty-two-biodiesel-myths-dispelled/#myth7 "FACT: Biodiesel contains about 8.5% less energy per gallon than petroleum diesel. For someone using B20, this means about a 1-2% loss in power, torque, and fuel efficiency. To put things into perspective, that’s about a 2 mph difference on the freeway if you were trying to go 55 mph. Millions of miles of onroad tests (aka trucking) have shown that B20 and diesel are practically indistinguishable. Biodiesel has also been used extensively in heavy-machinery, like tractors, loaders, and agricultural equipment, with no noticeable difference. B100 users may notice a slight drop in fuel mileage based on the small difference in energy content, but torque and power are usually comparable. I’ve seen a 1-3 mpg drop in fuel efficiency running B100. As an FYI, biodiesel has the highest BTU (energy) content of any alternative fuel (falling somewhere between diesel #1 and #2). Energy content of various fuels (per gallon, low value of range):" Regular Diesel Fuel = 128,500 BTUs Gasoline = 125,071 BTUs Biodiesel = 118,296 BTUs Ethanol = 76,000 BTUs In conclusion: in real world testing there is no noticeable change in power or fuel usage with fuel blends of B5 (5% bio-95% petroleum) to B20 (20% bio-80% petroleum). B100 (100% biodiesel did show a decrease in performance and fuel economy due to it's lower BTU value. The added benefit of increased fuel lubricity over the ULS fuel is a plus for the consumer in the form of possible lower maintenance/repair costs

Right you are! You too get a cupie doll. Driply's giving them out.

I see power steering fluid coolers on all types of vehicles. It can't hurt . I know that the power steering high pressure line right after the p/s pump can get so hot that I've gotten 2ed degree burns from leaning on it. check out these kits http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_21?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=power+steering+cooler+kit&sprefix=power+steering+cooler%2Cautomotive%2C216

Don't need a cupie doll. I married one.

After doing a little research in Diesel V Biodiesel I found that test results showed B5 fuel had a slight increase in fuel mileage and B20 was comparable to #2 diesel. Biodiesel also has an increase in it's lubricity rate. If you can get it for less use it. http://www.crimsonrenewable.com/mythvfacts.php http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/05/diesel-vs-biodiesel-vs-vegetable-oil/index.htm

I ohm checked my battery temp sensor as well as my grid heaters. The ambient air temp was 68° F. the BTS was 11,830Ω with one of my meters and 11,930Ω with another (harbor freight free-be). The grid heaters were checked by ohm testing from the positive post of one heater at a time to the common ground. the readings I recorded were 36Ω for the + post closest to the valve cover and 26Ω for the other one.