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Start with the ground mod then retest for AC voltage. When testing for AC voltage the engine should be warmed up and all unnecessary lights and accessories are off.

I've done a few rear wheel bearings over the years. They're easy to check; jack up the rear axle put jack stans under the axle and chock (block) the front wheels. With a helper start the truck and shift into 1st or 2ed gear. With a mechanics stethoscope or a long screwdriver listen at the axle just behind the rear brake backing plate on both sides and compare the sound.

Now that President Biden Has removed himself from the DNC presidential process and Vice President Kamala Harris has been elevated to fill that spot this song will be used to introduce her to the convention delegates. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhW6t4rEJwU

As of today, 7/21/2024, Joe Biden has announced that he is dropping out of the 2024 presidential race. With this news the White House has changed the President's official 2024 DNC introduction song. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgWyvnBHyOw

The Biden White House has released its choice for the music that President Joe Biden will use when he takes the stage at the Democratic National Convention in August. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMaE6toi4mk

Sounds like it maybe a tire balance problem.

Thank for the heads up. Good find!

Glad you found it. I've heard of speed sensors going bad, but this is the first time hearing that one broke off.

Which "cumminsforum" are you enquiring about?

Check the wires/connector at the speed sensor in the differential and the wires/connector between the cab and the bed to start with. If they are ok then then look at the abs controller.

Try this site. https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

You changed to an Edge EZ and the code still comes on as soon as the key is turned then the problem must likely is with map sensor or wires/connector. Try plugging in a map sensor without installing it and see if the code comes on without starting the engine.

Does this code come back as soon as you turn the key to on or do you have to drive it and generate boost over 19-20 PSI?

I use the 01

The factory heat exchanger not only cools transmission fluid, but all so heats the fluid to operating temperature in cold weather. With the average winter low temperature of 9°F in your area it would be prudent to retain the heat exchanger for winter drivability.

For heat shielding projects I use the heat shielding that car manufacturers use between the car body and the catalytic convertor. I can get it for next to nothing at a junk yard. It is made with up to seven layers of very thin aluminum sandwich between two thicker outer layers. It is very easy to bend and cut to fit or wrap.

If you don't have a coolant system pressure tester of your own, you can "rent" one from Oreilly auto parts store. You'll have to pay for it first then you have 2 days to use it and bring it back for a full refund. I've "rented" several of their tools over the years with no problems. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/air-conditioning---cooling-rental-tools/12095d53bcad/rental-tools-evertough-radiator-and-cap-test-kit/ren1/67085

That is the size, 12⅜" X 8½", I have on my truck. Here is a link to comparative size data for BHAF in the 24 valve 2ed gen, engine air and exhaust section. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/air-exhaust_56/big-honking-air-filter-r566/

Is there a place nearby that can test the alternator before you buy another one?

Is it worth it? I don't know. How many rear freeze plugs have you heard of blowing out due to heat in the rear cylinders. May be a problem with the lack of coolant pressure release during high RPMs along with some other underlying issue like weak freeze plugs.

Can you bench press 50 pounds? Tool needed to get the carrier out and back in is a rear axle spreader https://www.vevor.com/differential-housing-spreader-c_10334/dana-spicer-differential-housing-case-spreader-dana-30-44-50-60-70-80-p_010780674643?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=21040685019&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5v2wBhBrEiwAXDDoJW0ujeO9IT-MqMJpUAHGEaiOTnYXBl9kzBajCLoWtsREe5IpPrxQSxoCRycQAvD_BwE.

I never had to R&R the whole axle assembly to change bearings. Jack the back of the truck up and put jack stands under the axle. Now remove the cover and drain the housing. Remove the driveshaft and the pinion nut; I always market the flange and pinion, so they go back together the same as they came off. Remove the rear tires and axle shafts. Install the spreader, remove the carrier bearing caps and remove the carrier; be sure to mark the carrier bearing caps so they go back the same as they came off. With a mallet and a block of wood beat the pinion out of the housing. The front bearing should come off and the rear bearing can be pressed off and the new one pressed on. Remove the old races out of the housing install new bearing races, pion and new front bearing. Inspect the carrier bearings while out of housing. If they are bad press them off keeping the shims to back on to the same side they came off and press on the new bearings. Put the carrier back in and torque everything to specs. I've replaced whole rear axle assemblies in Volvos and Chevy Astro vans jacked up off the ground with a floor jack and another person to help man handle the unit. It's not hard to do.

I've done a few pinion bearings in Dana rear axles and they aren't that bad. You'll need a spreader to get the carrier out and back in, a big hammer to knock the pinion out of the front bearing/housing, a press to remove and install the rear pinion , and a big torque wrench. There will be a shim under the rear bearing, just reuse it when the new bearing is pressed on to the pinion.

I have a pack of flux coated bronze rods, 56% copper.

I've fixed leaking PS reservoirs that crack where the mounting bolts go through the sheet metal by using a brazing rod and acetylene torch; don't use JB Weld, it won't hold up to the vibrations.