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With out the ground for the starter relay, pin 85, through the NSS the starter will never work. The power flow is pin #85 to pin #2 (middle pin) of the NSS to the metal part of the NSS body which is grounded when screwed into the transmission case.

Some cities here in California have a 10.25% sales tax rate. They want to get your money as fast as they can. Nancy doesn't need a waiver. She has a tax payer supplied limo with driver and security.

I tell my customers, to justify the repair cost, that if they amortize the repair cost over 12 months it will be a lot less than the cost or even a lease payment. Another cost to consider is the amount of sales tax and registration fees on a new vehicle can be more than the repair on the old vehicle. Sales tax on a $60,000 here in California can be as much as $6,150.

Test ignition switch by volt test at pin 86 at starter relay plug. Battery voltage there when key is turned to start position. Test the neutral safety switch with ohm meter at pin 85 at starter relay plug in the PDC. One meter lead on ground and the other at pin 85. When transmission is in park or neutral the reading should be about 0 ohms. Using a 14 gauge wire between pin 30 and 87 of the same plug should cause the starter to run.

Look at all the fun you get to have. There's been a lot of discussion here on the best/worst ball joints. AC Delco, NAPA are good and MOOG, Spicer are not so good is the general consensus.

The connector (C106) for the CAD is at the right side of the radiator core support; see page 8W-90-21 and 8w-40-6 in the FSM.

Welcome to the mad house; sounds like you'll fit right in here playing with your truck. I'm not that bad, I just need good coffee to keep me working.

These trucks control units are very susceptible to not only poor grounds, weak connections at the battery, bad batteries, corrosion in the connectors but AC voltage from a bad alternator diodes. If the AC voltage is high enough, >0.03VAC, It will cause not only automatic overdrive problems but other drivability problems to the point of ECM/PCM failure. I strongly suggest you test for AC voltage with a quality volt meter, like a FLUKE multimeter, and read over that Ground Reference article.

Check the cable that goes from the alternator to the PDC where the 140 amp fuse and from the other side of the fuse and the battery for high resistance or bad connection.. Has the W-T Mod been done? See below.

Is this what your looking for?

With so many of us here that camp we can tell of our best and worst camp ground stays. Twice a year I try to get to Mono Village just outside of Bridgeport, CA. At 7100' your camping in a forest of large pine trees right next to a deep cold water lake with rainbow and brown trout. You can sit in a boat and fish all day or hike to high alpine mountain meadows. There is a lower lake next to this one and a large reservoir 25 minutes away. The camp ground is rather disorganized and when you check in they tell you to just find a spot and come back and "tell us where you're at". There are less than 50 sites with full hookups and the rest dry camping. I go around the first or second week in May and just about any time in October and I've run into a few forum members there at these times. If you go in the summer the week ends are really busy with Monday through Thursday no to bad. Camp sites with wild life.

Don't forget to test it for AC noise. Can you test the amp out put with the 60mm and then the 58mm pully to see if the amp increase is worth the cost of the Ford pully?

Crack open the injector lines one at a time. When you get to the offending cylinder the noise should go away.

Sounds like there is no power from the transmission control relay. Check for power at terminal 30 and 86 of the relay for power whit the key in the on position and go from there. Test this circuit.

Check this month's posts out.

Is that zero celsius or Fahrenheit?

If the hot leg insulation of the heater power cord rubbed through on the truck body there would still be 19 ohms when tested at the plug. If the ohm meter shows 0 ohms when the meter probes are attached to the hot led at the plug and the truck body this would be a short. If the test shows a reading of 0L or 1 then the wire is not grounded to the body. An open circuit is no connection. This is because of an open switch, a bad connection, a break in the wire, or high resistance due to corrosion. The ohm meter will show 0L or 1.

Did you ohm test the block heater circuit for a short to the truck body.

Have you redone the two ground wires for the PCM? They are spliced together lke the ones on the port side.

This might help, shows where to put the filter.

No, only going down hill with the switch. Ohm test between pin 87 of the transmission control relay in the PDC and the orang /black wire at the middle connector ( connector C2, pin 11) at the PDC. Should have around 80 ohms, the amount for the winding of the solenoid. If you have that reading then the connection at the connector is good and so is the solenoid.

Had same problem last summer. No lockup except coasting down hills with mystery switch on. Transmission ran warmer when towing on the flats by 10-20°F and over heated, up to 280°F going up hills. Did all the tests and replaced relay and solenoids the same as you have. Replacing the torque convertor, with a Dynamic overhaul, fixed the problem.

You may be losing prime over night. Try parking truck facing down hill. Wind chill temp has no effect on inorganic material; it's the actual temp that matters.

And when you were an adolescence you were looking at the Sears cataloged. Snap-On tool are great for the professional but overkill for the weekend DIY guy.

Is the chicken ready?