IBMobile

That's an Airtex E7153 fuel pump. It's rated at 55 GPH at 15-30 PSI and it draws 6.5 AMPS.

That 4 gauge cable goes between the alternator's B+ terminal and the positive terminal of the auxiliary battery. The 2/0 gauge cable goes between the negative terminal of the auxiliary and the negative terminal of the main battery. This ties the two batteries together with out using the 0 gauge cable and engine block between them.

Can you run the lift pump without starting or bumping the starter motor by hot wiring it? Get the pump to run on demand by hot wiring it. Get a 3-4 foot piece of 5/16-3/8 hose. Start the fuel pump and using the hose like a stethoscope, with one end in your ear and the other moving along the fuel system, to detect the "sucking noise". When you come to it, the sound will be loud and clear in your ear. Have you checked the flow of fuel after the fuel filter by placing a hose from the filter housing into a container and running the pump?

What @W-T was referring to is if you have a high output alternator (180+ AMP) then join the two batteries with the extra 2/0 cables so that they act as one. This will keep the batteries charged equally and the battery temp sensor does not get an erroneous reading from the main battery. If you have the stock 140 AMP alternator then one extra 2/0 ground cable between the two batteries will do. I have not added that to my truck yet. I did. I think so.

Is the A/C compressor not coming on at the same time when the fan is not running?

I found it in yesterdays newspaper, Hickory Daily Record. Local Chicken Man found on side of road after blowing stuff up.

My 4X2 truck on the left with 245/75R16 on factory rims. @JAG1 4X4 truck on the right.

Then a little after that a little of this

This is how I test a fan clutch. Visual inspection: Is there any staining on the clutch housing to indicate a fluid leak? There should be no leaks. Is the thermostatic coil spring still attached to the front of the clutch and not broken/cracked? Is there any play in the center of the clutch and the mounting nut? There should be no play. Does the fan blades spin freely with little effort, some effort, or great effort? If with little or great effort the fan clutch is bad. Is there any play/roughness in the fan pully bearing? There should be none. Check the condition of the fan blades. There should be no cracks or pieces missing. Operational inspection: Run engine until thermostat is open. Drive if needed. Now with the vehicle stopped and brake set, block the air flow over radiator, I use cardboard. Bring the engine speed up to 1500+ RPM and hold it there. If there is a roaring sound at this stage of the test then the fan clutch is locked up prematurely and should be replaced. When the temperature gauge indicator needle moves to the right of center and is over the 0, remove the cardboard and keep the engine speed at 1500+ RPM. The sudden rush of hot air will engage the fan clutch very quickly, about 30-45 seconds. You will hear a 'roaring' sound as the fan clutch engages and draws large amounts of air over the radiator. The temperature gauge should move back to the center position and the roaring sound subside as the coolant temperature returns to normal. If there is no roaring sound and the coolant temperature does not decline, reduce engine speed to idle then turn engine off. Fan clutch is not locking up and should be replaced. I've seen people check the fan clutch operation by sticking a hose, rolled up paper or some other soft material against the fan blades while the fan is moving. I don't recommend this type of test. If the fan clutch is not engaged the fan will stop spinning when the outside resistance is brought to bear. If the fan clutch is locked up the fan will kick out what ever is put against it and could cause damage or injury.

How is the air flow over the radiator cooling fins, rat nest or other obstructions between it and the intercooler? How is the coolant flow through the radiator cooling tubes. No blockage with calcium deposits or other debris?

Don't drag my coffee into this. We all ready have socks and sandals.

It's on the orange with black stripe at the middle connector (B11) on the PCM.

That's what I tighten mine to.

I had that problem once pulling a boat out of salt water. It was low tide and I had to back down to where there was algae on the ramp. Have you had this problem before or just this one time.

Depends on if their mom dressed them (with) or not (without).

Had one of those the other day. I was a service on an MBZ and talking to the customer about his car I asked him if he checked his oil level between oil changes. His answer was "That's what I pay you people for". Today I was in O'Reilly today and at the counter next to me a woman was buying a 5qt jug of synthetic oil. She asked the sales associate how long can she use the oil till she needs to change it. He told her 3,000 to 3,500 miles.

No need to drill holes. Take the cover off the left A-post and there should be an opening between the left side of the dash and the body. You can run every thing through there.

20-30 mA (milliampere) is normal but not more than 50 mA.

Mixing greases of the same or compatible base is no problem. If the grease base is not compatible then the lubricant oil can sperate or give no protection at all. When I can't determine what the grease base is I'll clean all the old grease off then apply new quality grease.. This is a compatibility chart for grease bases. The problem I run into is a lot of manufactures don't list the base type on the packaging.

No problem with air flow. There is a minimum clearance between the filter and shield of 1" and that's only in a few spots. The rest is 2" to wide open. The engine can breath like a race horse at Santa Anita.

Yes...Yes it is duct tape and it is the finest duck tape money can buy. Only the best for my truck. It was a little project I was trying out. I was making a heat shield for the BHAF out of the heat shielding that goes between a cars catalytic converter and the floor pan. This stuff works great, about 6 very thin aluminum layers sandwiched between two thicker sheets. 300°+ on one side and 95° on the other. The duct tape is to cover any sharp edges, then spry painter black. I took part of it off and ended with this. Yes that's my truck. It's gold over sliver. Under the hood is a dull gold. I haven't polished it yet.

@Mopar1970man Why are you insulating the hot part of the pipe from the condenser to the orifice tube? I thought that you would leave that uncovered to let the heat escape like in the condenser. You would only need to cover the pipe from the orifice tube, after the pressure drop, to the fire wall/evaporator to keep the cold in.

Blue Chip Diesel has the write up on trouble shooting the vp 44. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting-1

It's a snowflake entitlement mentality. "I'm in a hurry". "You're in may way", "Don't inconvenience me", "My time is more important than your time". It's worse at night and the weekends when they're not in school or work.