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REVENGE OF THE GHOST CHICKENS IN THE SKY

EV1 gauges for 13 years and I don't know if this place is still in business. I'm using ⅛ " air brake line to the fuel gauge with a small ball valve right at the main fuel line T fitting for the shut off.

Do you need just the relay or the wire harness built for it too?

This might help.

I'm running the Fuel Boss pump with a back up pump plumbed into the system but pulled the fuse for it because I've found that it isn't nesacery for starting. It is nice for purging the fuel lines with out having to spin the Fuel Boss by cranking the engine or with a drill. I too keep a spare belt under the back seat but still on the first belt. When I do need to purge air from the fuel system I refit the fuse, pull the relay that I installed and jumper between the relay receptacle contacts #30 and #87. This will energize the back up fuel pump which will stay running as long as the jumper is in place. Because I live in an area of California that requires my truck to be emissions tested biannually with an OBD scan performed I keep the relay installed with the fuse out. This will allow the ECM to energize the relay at pin #86, thinking it's the fuel pump, and not set the code p0230 Transfer Pump Circuit Out of Range.

A quality transmission/power steering filter has a bypass valve in it, like an oil filter does, other wise there would be a lot of burned up transmissions out there. So as far as losing your steering or brakes because of it, I don't think so. An inline filter does just that, it filters the fluid of different particulates. It does this two ways. First the fluid passes over a magnet which collects any iron particles. The fluid then passes through a filter which removes the other contaminants. The filter will in no way protect the fluid from thermal breakdown but will protect the pump, steering box and hydro boost from premature wear and brake down due to contaminated fluid.

These new vehicles are being made as light as possible to meet the federal Corporate Average Fuel Standards (CAFE), still conform to the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) requirements, reduce tail pipe emissions for the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and make a profit. With computer aided designs the tolerances can be taken down to where the fudge factor is engineered to the minimum allowed. The weight reduction in just the wiring harness has been reduced. The pre 1990 autos had heaver gauge wire in them IE: 16 AWG used for the park, stop, turn lights now there is 18 AWG and some systems, CVVT solenoid comes to mind, are using 20 AWG. Plastic bumpers, plastic doors, plastic fenders and plastic junk. Where lucky these trucks have made it this long. With bad EPA solder, ground wires just jammed together with out even a crimp. Auto trans that can't take the torque of a diesel engine, OEM lift pumps that fail every 15,000 miles, dashboards that crack into 50 pieces, et cetera. With out web sites like this and some decent aftermarket parts these trucks would have ben in the bone yard years ago.

Not good using the compressor wheel as a blender. The compressor blades may be out of balance and/or slightly bent. In the picture the blade at the 4 o'clock position doesn't lock quite right or it could be the lighting.

The torque convertor should unlock and the RPM drop. The TC lock up switch is put in to keep the convertor locked. I believe the APPs going to idle circuit sends a signal to unlock the TC.

I've been trying to keep up on this thread. Wish I could contribute more to the research but I'm busier than a one armed paperhanger. There are a lot of promising things being found and discussed. It will be interesting what the finale findings are.

All the cylinder head bolt torque specs I work with are similar to what you have, tighten to X number of ft-lbs then angle torque so many degrees. I never go back and recheck.

You can siphon, fill, run, siphon, fill, run until the fluid is clean. You take the steering box return hose of at the pump and place in a drain pan, cap the fitting on the pump, run the engine and fill until clean. Run the engine only for a few seconds at a time. There isn't much fluid in the pump and it's pumped out fast Or you can do this

I see this type of head gasket failure all the time in older Volvo engines. The head gasket is eaten away buy electrolysis and always by #1 or #4 cylinder in the 4 cylinder engine, #6 cylinder in the straight 6 engines.

@W-T you're right about the voltage spike. The proper relay is a must for system protection. When I was at the Volvo factory school the instructor demonstrated voltage surge of over 100 VDC in a 12 volt system by just disconnecting the fuel injection control module. The battery should also be disconnected before unplugging or reattaching any module for this resound. @Mopar1973Man said these problems didn't start for the first 10 years. May be it took 10+ years for a cumulative effect of corrosion, factory paint resistance and poorly maintained connections allowing the AC ripple to have an evict on the more sensitive parts of the electrical system. W-T, I've been to Paradise, CA a few years back when my son was at Chico State. It's really a nice little town in the hills.l

It's on a bracket between the PDC and the ABS controller. If you have a factory repair manual the description is at sections 5 pages 9-10.

No it won't. Sounds like you have a bad combination valve.

Check the pawn shops first if you can. I bought a used Fluke 77 for $75 at one.

You need a meter that has a 2 volt AC scale or auto ranging. 200V scale is not sensitive enough for these low AC readings.

I get RV products, like the Dicor sealant, from Amazon. They have good prices on those products and free shipping, without being a member of Prime, if the total amount of the purchase is over $50. The other RV needs are bought are from my local mom n' pop store in town.

If AC noise is low and DC voltage/amperage is good I would look elsewhere for the P1682 problem. The PCM comes to mind. It controls the signal to the voltage gauge and transmission.

Anyone ever use the rebuilt RV275 https://www.dieselautopower.com/rebuilt-rv275-marine-300-40hp-injectors-0432193635r

Good luck with your new home it looks nice with all the creature comforts. When I bought my 5th wheel I didn't even own a truck. I had the delivery put in the contract.

I received my recall noticed from Fleetwood this week. It looks like I'll be getting a new extinguisher to replace the 14 year old one for free.

I don't know what it will do in Idaho but in North Carolina it's been known to make you look like a chicken.