JAG1

Welcome from Oregon. That is just how Mike is.... for half a day I was having problems on my truck. Mike stayed by the phone for every call after each step of the way. He really helped me thru it. I need to send another donation sometime soon as this site is doubly worth it.

I spent $130.00 for the 2nd gen prefilter and 1st gen was $150.00. Both are Racor filters, the first gen was more money back then, because the filter head has a priming pump..... handy when there's start, prime, or pump problems. Drawback is the clear plastic water drain bowls on bottom. I built a protection plate under one down on the frame. It swings out of the way when changing.

Mike, most write ups on a diesel fuel systems will tell you that you should always have a prefilter. When buying my Raptor, I knew that from my diesel mech book. In 1996 I knew to add a prefilter to my first gen. I blame Dodge for not putting one on, but then again, it's probably a lot better quality buying your own set up anyway. I agree that prefilter is very important, but, not an inline 'jobby' or a small mesh screen.... It should be a good spin on filter and filter head. As for the ball valves, when I shut mine for filter changes and open them again, I only need to bump once/twice and she starts up again. No need to bleed off air because the valves stop the tank drainback when changing the OE engine filter that is the highest point.

You guys brought out some good information about these hubs. Even if you weren't looking for the mileage gains (which pay for the hubs at about 18-36,000 miles) the increased reliabilty and having a 2wd lower range is enough to make it viable. I get on rough enough roads to where a guy needs to creep along. This would be great for that.

Not sure now.... maybe newer Cummins uses green stuff. It was first developed by GM due to their cheaper head gaskets couldn't take the green and problems developed. I have always used green and never heard about this new orange antifreeze. Like I said my green stuff in my 02 is still very alkaline according to my Ph test kit. And my 92 has only had green changed twice in 400 K.

Do a google search. Orange antifreeze is not recommended in Cummins engine due to some silicone type seals in the engine block. This according to the University of Tenessee Agricultural extension article on coolant changes for farm equipment. I went out and tested my 11 year old green stuff and the Ph level is still well into the alkaline levels. My 400 thousand mile first gen has only had the coolant changed twice. Been runnin on green ever since it was new. Radiator just got hot tanked and repaired/ resoldered last year. Heater core still works great no leaks. Aword to the wise here to you young guys... If it isn't broke don't fix it. This means don't try any new fangled thing till its proven. Gm developed the orange stuff onlybecause they started 'cheaping out on their head gaskets and couldn't take the green.

Reading on the Cummins Forum, some old posts, I'm finding out the factory front bearings are kind of cheaply made. Cost a couple guys almost as much as the conversion kit to replace them. Not worth the headache getting stuck somewhere trying to get factory parts. This came from a truck owner who indicated the bearings are dealership part only. Don't really know on this though. I'm wondering if this means new bearings for the free spin hubs are readily available with the right part numbers?

I think remembering that he said he's going to a job that's a different situation he's used to .... may be very busey with that.

Me gettin concerned too, We have not heard anything from him in awhile.

Thanks for the write up. I'll look them up. Must be American made too I'll bet.

Copy that....... I counted 23 deer on a 30 mile stretch of highway on my last trip. It was still daylight and thought how lucky, since it close to sunset.

Anyone done this to their truck? Which kit would you recommend? Thanks.... Even a one mile to the gallon gain will pay back these hubs in 14,000 miles. I think it's worth doing. I hear complains on the stock set up anyhow... leavin' guys stranded 50 miles from nowhere etc. unable to get to a dealer for parts.

I think you might be right. It's the jealosy about not getting/ affording a Cummins. Deep down they know it's the only real truck Dodge owners don't need to prove anything by trailing someone anyhow

I would have followed this guy around till cops got there. I like tailgators! That's how my wife got a nice new car almost all paid for. Anytime I see a Ford truck behind us I know more an likely he'll start getting too close. Don't know why that is but it seems Ford trucks are frequent tailers. (Sorry for the 2 posts... forgot about 'multiquote option')

She was in the left lane getting ready to change to a left turn lane up ahead. I believe that's what the news said.

'Glamping'----- is that when you go camping in a Glamorous rig? Boy they sure build'em bare bones-y underneath but look real good with the fit and finish. It's a nice rig.... well worth the effort. I would not use hemlock framing again that why it rots so easily just from condensation. I'm 'pretty' sure douglas fir being the strongest of the evergreens used for framing, is about 3 times less dry rot prone than hemlock. I like to use clear verticle grain douglas fir because it's amazingly strong but very very expensive. I only use it when I save it out of an old building that was built with the old growth Fir. Western red cedar is the least rot prone but framing members should be bigger because it is not as strong. Anyhow enough..... been around woodwork all my life... ful time since 1977 and still love it so much can't stop the yammer and the hammer! When it's done, seein' your work so far, I know it will be pretty darn purdy

I knew it had to be somethin' like that Mines from my initials. had to add the number 1 cause someone else had 'Jag'. At least I'm number one in something in life. .

Sorry.... I was looking at the wrong member's profile Hope you getit fixed anyhow I bought mine about 2-3 yrs. ago from Source Auto which I'm glad because it might have been from some older batch/ order for their supply. So far it's been no problem. Is it possible to have a short backfeed thru a relay to the ECM? A discussion awhile back, something how it could do that, so lowering the amp rating on the fuse by ten amps. Never any problems so far.

Is there any way to identify if I have one of the older better built Raptor pumps? Just wondering if there is a way to tell.....Thank you

Dorkweed what did you do to give yourself that name? Of course I can think of much worse very aptly applied to myself at times

Yep that it is.... and I should drop mine off for you to get mine looking as good .

I would say I'm not going to be much help but, I think the new AirDog would come with instructions and a new wiring harness. I recommend making sure you get a new wire harness with it. Those fuses blowing like that I would be worried about affecting/ burning up the ECM on the side of the engine block. Somehow you have a slow blow short circuit. What size fuses are you putting in anyways? One last thought....Michael Nelson would be about the best guy to have work on your truck. He does repairs and is not too far north of you in Riggins, Idaho. About 130 miles, he'll get it right that is for sure.

I don't know for sure except that my tractor had intank screens. They eventually varnished up to where they were clogged. Adding a prefilter made it so I can change the filter when it needs changing. I also wanted screens out for better flow in the module anyhow. I had a problem for awhile where my Raptor was sucking air at 1/4 tank, during turns, stops and strong take offs. I then discovered my 1/2'' draw straw was short by a couple inches off the bottom of the tank. I've since lenghtened it and don't hear air anymore but won't know for sure till I get the truck out some more test runs. Removing the screens and little cylindrical shaped screen filter (one that unsnaps) helps with getting bigger holes in the bottom of the module.

mine's purdier than yours dorkweed

Here in Oregon it's cloudy and rainy so much, you get mud right after you wash it... also need flashlight to work under the hood