JAG1

Calling fire Dept. might save lives if you let them know. Fire, Life safety issue anyhow.

Looks like you just waxed that puppy. Does look nice! I notice you protect inside with the sunlight blockers

I don't have the AirDog Pump. Mine is a Raptor 100 with a prefilter in front of the pump, big draw straw and fuel lines. I fixed mine so the return goes into the fill neck since I want draw straw to pick up cooler fuel for the VP. I cut out the intank screens and unsnaped the old draw straw filter out (small plastic cartrige on the bottom) to help more flow into the module. I've only heard of one guy that upsized his main return line, but, not each line from injectors, just main line. I used to think this was a good idea, but, Mopar Mike says it's of no benefit so I left it alone.

Killer, I fully understand. I hope you get a smokin' deal on a great truck. If you could find one with a bad VP you might get a real deal.

Thank you for the Article/link. It is very informative.

I'm not questioning your character Killer I was questioning your gauge reading merely because up to this point you said you had the intank pump nothing about an additional pump was said till later. Also it best to tell the new buyer(s) about the differentials needing to be rebuilt, otherwise karma... universal balance...whatever.....won't turn around to bit you in the cheeks

I hope you figure it out with the codes. Everyone else passes me, maybe I have a bad IP and don't even know it

I think fixing an old truck, as long as it's not too far gone, is like putting money in the bank for the long run. Anybody can go get a new/ newer truck but, those that can bank the money, go the long haul as Cummins intended when designing these engines, that's the key to smart truckin' right there. But, if the truck is too far gone that's different.

If not I'd have to say those pressures can't be right The consenses on TDR is those pumps won't give off more than about 7-8 psi under light load. Can't remember exact number but, too low for vp cooling as I remember reading.

Killler, what is the fuel pressure under a load or say... half throttle?

IMHO, there is nothing better than owning a truck outright knowing whats been done to it (building it right) and knowing everything about what it will need, to build it right. Even if I bought a newer truck I'd still dump a bunch just getting it to where my old rig was (talking reliable upgrades and service). Killer, if you still have the intank pump, (very bad set up) showing 25 psi, somethings wrong with your gauge set up too.....need to change the whole fuel system IMHO. On a side note.... my 02 is perfect... looks like a new truck, lots of savings spent just to make it reliable (built right) I would not want to go thru that again and I paid 26 k for the truck to begin with.

My stove pipe kept rotting out in less than a year so I ripped it out and put in stainless pipe. 14 yrs later, it's still good. About your damper, I'd probably have one fabricated out of ss. If you can or have a fabrication outfit cut out the parts w/ ss. Seems to be the only way these days. Lots of folks around here that want very good quality are keeping our local fabrication shop very busey.

Thanks Anthony, I kinda knew this idea would get shot down. I also think it landed on the ocean, not broken up and then allowed to sink .

Hope this isn't a silly question, but, is it possible to fly a 777 out into orbit? What happens if you just let it climb as high as it can go? Wouldn't it get lost in space? Hope you guys don't beat me up too bad on this one but, a news search shows nothing along those lines being talked about.

I'm glad yer on track now. Watch your fingers at all times. It ain't worth it to get complacant or be in a hurry. Even if you just nick them can take long time to heal and hurts like you know what.

Anthony, I'm in the same time zone you are in. I'm in the pac N.W. also. You can call up till about 9 pm. I use diablo blades all the time. They are never actually all 100% true in their rotation which is normal. It has something to do with the stresses released in the wood as you are cutting makes the blade get hot and start to vere off course. Hemlock is very bad for that problem. It is a lot more white in color than all other woods and has loads of stresses inside it. when cut it warps almost immediatly. Even lesser grades of Fir if it is with a bad center cut out of the tree can be bad. It's getting harder to find a stick of lumber thats a quarter sawn piece and not out of the center of the tree. It's too bad you could not start with 1x8 cedar lumber. It has much better manners for what you are planning to do. Are you anywhere near Portland?

Anthony, give me a phone call..... I put my number in your PM's. Your PM does not work so call..... five zero three 577- 34 zero zero. Mike

Joe, Wilco farm stores has everything you need. There's one in canby and one in Oregon City. I generally avoid H.D. because I've had too many problems with them.

I agree with you Will. I used the same ones you are showing-came in my Vulcan big line kit. I thought that those types are called 'barbed' fittings because plumbers and suppliers call those 'barbed'. I have it confused I guess as my new Raptor pump came with the compressor hose type and thought those must be called the 'push locks' Will, I wonder if they should be called clampless barbed or something because of this confusion. I really don't know

Aren't the push locks showing some problems with some air and fuel leaks? Not all the time or every one, but, I did hear it's best to get rid of them so I did. I like good old stainless clamps anyhow since my push locks on my compressor hoses always wears out.. don't trust'em. Make sure you stay taper thread to taper thread when adapting the barbed fittings. The ball valves have a tapered thread so stay all tapered and you will have no leaks. Plumbing supply house is where I got the brass for mine.

mountaindan, is it missfiring only at around 1800-2000? Or does it do that at ABOVE THE 1800/2000 RPM? Say, at 2700 rpm? If it does, I'd say you got an air leak in the fuel system. Do the least expensive first bud. I got injectors, on my 1st gen, never been cleaned, still running smooth at 400 K. Truck runs great

Cool!

I used to put zip ties on mine to keep 'em open but after awhile I started to forget to put them on. Never been a problem.

I guess you are probably right. Mine says on it, 'for suction side only' . I 've never seen one say, 'for pressure side only'

Nice truck. Never seen a bed painted a different color but, with the step rail incliuded it does look good not going all red. On the concept drawing; my only thought is I know the cabs are stronger when there is a pillar between front and rear doors. I know that my cab on my 2002 wouldn't be flexing as much if it had one and it wasn't one big opening.