CUMMINSDIESELPWR

mike are they genuine bosch or rv nozzles on reman bodies?

i got mine on a push pull toggle.

ive had new ones be bad on install, and being so close to the pump it will drain the pump real quick via backflow

sealing washers on the input and return lines?

like mike said a collapsed hydraulic lifter would make gobs of noise

exhaust brakes are awesome in snow while in 4wd stops real fast! (ice different story)

i ruined an advance auto press, threads shredded up and had to get another one. luckily i rented!

i jack front and rear one side at a time, easy enough and ensures nothing gets damaged.

hahaha! either way i think until OP fixes air in system the problem wont be fixed.air is not yer friend.

when i bled my lines last week from new lp install i cracked 1,3,4 it finally cranked over and was spraying diesel like a crazy mofo. i expected this as it wasnt the first time doing it but i shut it down before i got hands in there. dont want to get injected.

oh ok, going back to my corner... :banghead:LOL

well there is your problem you are pulling air from somewhere in the tank. fix that and see what happens, (not trying to be a smarty):doh:anytime you introduce air into the system it will eventually be pushed to the vp and cause rough running/no start (if enough air). even my recent LP swap 3 days later had a bubble that worked through the system from priming that the vp hiccuped and bucked the truck a couple times then cleared it.

crack 1,3,4 let em bleed for a while to purge

yes be careful!

what is the fuel pressure when you have this issue? and if i recall, the diaphram thing was a misnomer, but too high of pressure will cause hard starts cold/hot. also what lift pump are you using? anyone correct me if i am wrong (ill learn too)

if i were you, id crack an injection line (#1 will work) crank it over and see if its spitting fuel. if not then you have problems. 3/4" combo wrench is what ya need, its a simple 5 minute check

im waaay overdue LMAO

hope for a speedy and full recovery brother!

you may have a valve over specced allowing it to vent and not fully close. id recheck tolerances seeing that you are positive nothing is in there.first part of troubleshooting, if it wasnt broke before, what did you change to make it broke

anytime i have any plenum open i always stuff a rag in it to ensure NOTHING gets in there.i would take that while plenum off and inspect each valve somehow.

sure nothing dropped into the intake plenum and is hanging a valve open? i would be wary to run it until you figure out what it is.

it will work, just got to get hardware to hook up to raptor stuff. weak pump is better than no pump for backup. the fuel boss has the stock pump inline for automatic backup. and you can tell it will be on as it does 8psi max.

yup!

well cold weather and slippery hands dont get them engaged fully so i put clamps on em.

So after 2 days of working on the truck due to a possible pump and crud in a check valve, i am now running only on the fuel boss for testing and purging. Long story short, i had to run a completely new supply line from the tank as i was not getting pressure. the first new pump seemed to be out of spec and wouldnt prime/pressurize. So after taking half the plumbing apart and inspecting the check valve i found a chunk of crud keeping it open and the fuel boss was hydraulically opening it up further creating a loop to where it wouldnt pressurize. So after cleaning it the system works as advertised! At idle i run ~15psi anything above 1800rpm im @ ~18psi.i tried to bring it down on setting 5 and it wouldnt go past 14psi.I was able to find all the original hardware plus the brand new OEM style lift pump i got back in the day when i replaced the vp but went with the raptor that eventually died. I currently have my system plumbed the way GDP has it in the instructions with the OEM lift pump inline after the check valve to preprime the system and hold as a temp backup in case a belt breaks of catastrophic pump failure.Things i learned from this instal.take your time, and when running the hoses, do one line at a time in sections and "piece" it together. you only have one shot to get lengths right and i had 5' left over (if you plumb to oem steel line from tank).be smart about line placement in engine. i zip tied mine up and out of the way to avoid pitman arm and steering shaft rub.heat the ends of the hoses with a blow dryer, they will push onto the pushlock brass fittings easier. (i put hose clamps on all mine anyways).ensure no lines are kinked, restricting flow.ensure bypass valve is oriented to flow toward the tank on the pressure line from fuel boss (you will destroy your filter lid) <-- this didnt happen to me.ensure check valve is oriented toward inlet of oem lift pump and that it functions properly before install.if for any reason the fuel boss doesnt prime and create pressure within a minute or less you may have crud in the check valve keeping it open making a low pressure loop feeding itself and you wont get the good pressure.belt slack basically i have mine to where you pull the belt to itself gently and it is as wide of a space as the small pulley. looser is better!and most of all,Working with rich at glacier diesel has been for lack of better words, excellent! He next day aired a new pump to me to eliminate the original pump if it has issues and he was very happy to work with me to get this right. He has made a life customer out of me. I have never had such great experience with a business much less the owner as i have working with Rich.I give Rich and his business 5 stars!