CUMMINSDIESELPWR

what does it do holding steady throttle with your foot? does it do this with fuel box unhooked?

after house sells ill be doing something like this and adding secondary lift pump. i just dont have funds right now - - - Updated - - - so i ran into teathing problems, the install was tedious but straight forward. However ive run into a snag and am currently working with rich to solve the no prime/no pressure issue. I will say that he has been a very standup guy to work with and he has made a life customer out of me! i give him 10 thumbs up! i will update when truck is running.

ladies and germs, i will be doing my install tomorrow as its cold and snowy out but i have everything prepped ready to bolt up and run.edited as i found all my old hardware and a new oem lift pump. so i installed per instructions from GDP.

my raptor is doing the same thing, bushings are making god awful sound and it cant keep pressure anymore.

i rolled 198000 recently

do you have the secondary electric lift pump inline? or are you just running the boss only?

ill be installing wed evening

oil psi can tell you many things, if there is a blockage, bad bearing, etc etc...

i ordered the fuel boss as well saturday seeing my raptor is taking a crap on me...

yup normal

well bad news, my raptor is on its way out, making bad bearing whine noises and pressure fluctuation from 25-10psi... so screw this i ordered the glacier diesel mechanical fuel pump. i have a stock lift pump ill put in place of the raptor for a primer pump. more to come

i need to do the shim and spring thing too, every once in a while the pressure will drop down from 20-22 to 12-14 then clear up. it does this about once or twice a month...

brick in a washer...

how not to get lost.step 1bring compass and map.step 2 find your way out.done

i paint my hubs. problem solved! lol

i bought it for both. love the second gen looks and love the second gen cummins!

normal, i get the same thing. fuel that is injected during startup builds up until piston speed reached optimum when the air is compressed fast enough to combust the fuel, until that happens unburnt fuel builds up and gets spit out. mind u this is only a extremely short period of time from turn over to running.

preferably zero slack, but i dont think 1/16" will hurt on just the steering box, but it is magnified via the radii of all the arms and such and is also cumulative from one end of the steering to the balljoints.every joint adds a little play. so if you have 1/16" on the steering, on the pitman joint to draglink, to steering knuckle, to balljoint, factor in the tie rod and trakbar...yer lookin at 1/8" on each wheel of play. this isnt good and doesnt even factor in the radial magnification. hope this helps

the death wobble.... yikes!

is your fan clutch locked up to where its spinning the fan full bore?

while you have the fan out make sure it spins freely, if it gummed up replace it $50 from advance. also inspect resistor if it is cracked replace it $35 advance. mine was so gummed from dirt it kept blowing the resistor and after the second one the guy told me to check the fan... the damn thing barely turned with my hand and was basically ruined. the squirrel cage comes off and goes on the new fan. took bout an hour to do both.

this i hear works if in fact your steering wheel shaft bushing is worn and there is radial play in the steering shaft going to the steering box.

grind me a pound would ya? LOL

the steering brace took out a lot of slop on my worn steering gear so it does work as advertised.

are you talking about the actual shock stabilizer or steering brace? if it is the brace, it is a good investment for anyone running oversized tires and or offroads a lot. the brace will keep the sector shaft bearin/bushing from premature wear. if its a daily driver with normal tires i wouldnt invest in it. i run 35" tires and offroad a lot so i need it especially with tue original box.