Jump to content

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

Unpaid Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

  1. i heard putting the EGT probe on the rear half of the manifold to read temps that include cyl #6 as it runs the hottest due to the cooling being towards the front. This way all the pistons will theoretically be cooler than #6 which will be the hottest (if all cylinders are balanced fuel delivery wise)This is how i did my EGT probe.pic below is a good example
  2. i would honestly have to say that with the VP having an ECU that can or will fail over time even thought the mechanical part is still good this puts it below the P-pumped in reliability. If the ecm kicks it... your just plain screwed and stuck. But i have some ideas about integrating a peltier cooler on top of the ecu to run after the truck is shut down due to the latent heat creeping into the vp with no fuel flow to cool.
  3. remember too when bottom tapping you may need to clean out the chips in the bottom of the hole so you can get a good bottom tap achieved. if not you will crowd the tap and F things up.
  4. i dont tow or haul so level kit evened things out quite a bit. after a while it will settle about 1/2". It does give the rig a better stance. cant comment on steering as i have to do the box and shaft replacement plus brace.
  5. this is from bluechip diesel http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html "Code 1693 only means there is at least one code in the other computer, which is the PCM, which has NOTHING to do with the fuel system related drivability problems." the other code i havent read up on. ill dig further and see what i can find --- Update to the previous post... p0382 its a grid heater relay code the other one is a p0380 found at http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/p0382-code-t109215.html http://www.dieselram.com/showthread.php?t=189065 more info i just googled ram 2500 p0382 code Mike, if i cant post other websites for diagnostics help let me know. hope this helps. looks like it all points to the grid heater ckts --- Update to the previous post... here is one that mike replied to. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/287745-p0380-p0382-same-time.html
  6. toss a pic up, this thread might give others ideas for their switches
  7. yep got to go inexpensive when i can! single homeowner and my own breadwinner! no gf/kids to worry bout though.
  8. bottom tapping is when you make threads all the way to the bottom of a blind hole without extending the hole.
  9. i saw that too but for $10 compared to $68 just for a mount and a switch....ill build my own for $10. thanks for the link though
  10. so after checking the wiring it turns out that the EB is wired to a switched hot and the on switch is just the ckt powering the EB. i just had to wire the push pull switch to the leads and BAM i got a stickshift EB switch
  11. ive not heard of any other stud to use myself. i have never heard anything negative about the arp studs. ive heard of others actually re-using arp studs with no issue, but unless i didnt have the funds for a new set i wouldnt do this
  12. my truck isnt an inverted barstool... HAHAHAHAHA
  13. ive heard of the valve cover molding ridges inside on the "ceiling" hitting the taller heads of the studs and some people grind a few spots down on the cover. 12v peeps do this too
  14. yes quite simple actually, gently drill any poolball of your choice and then tap it. its metric but forget what size. then put some threadlock on it and twist it on aligned, let it cure and it wont come off from normal use. i had 2 8-balls so i tossed them on!
  15. thank you for that link crusher, i have seen that before but i have 8balls on my stickshift and 4wheel shifter so they arent applicable to my setup. but it would work if someone had a stock gearshift knob you will see what i mean when i post pics up
  16. your are totally correct but i dont want to decipher all the wires, i just have to extend 2 and im done. i dont know why they didnt do that in the first place...
  17. i need a push pull as the EB will stay powered even after shutdown, a rocker could be easily hit to the on position and i dont want to drain anything. a push pull cant and in the pull position it will be on. so it has to be purposefully turned on, plus i like the oldschool stuff . i will integrate an led onto it just like the current one so i wont leave it on.
  18. so ive been wanting to put my exhaust brake switch on the stickshift and cant find anywhere that makes a push/pull switch premade for this application. so a trip to advance auto to frankenstien something together.i purchased a nice push pull switch and a small cheapo battery terminal.instead of the original switch being way down by the floor behind the stickshift from the previous owner it will now be easy to activate on the fly.i will work on this over the weekend and post pics and part numbers for anyone who wants to do this for any accessory switch.
  19. why swap out the 24v if it is good or did i miss something???
  20. i had a 2001 1500 5.9 eclb 4x4 auto, i was lucky to get 15-16 in florida with most dense air. when i moved up to colorado....it sucked bawlz. so i traded it for something with a turbo... :D
  21. dont know about mine, i do know that each tire inflated with rim is about #150 and i get to lift that up to the tiregate in the back! no sweat!now where is my spleen?
  22. i have been messing with mine, when i put it on setting 5 and have the low end response low i do about~16 @65mph with a steady foot cruising level highway.When i put the setting 5 to max low end response i shoot up to ~20-21 @65mpg same foot same level highway.I can even tell a difference in output when i do this. All this is on my edge juice with attitude. For the cruise to function at these setting cause it is so sensitive it has a delay cycle of too much too little throttle and its constantly on off. I will fix this by putting the cruise cable higher on the throttle arm.this is all with 34" tires and just reading whats on the overhead idiot console. havent done the math to figure out the true mpg's...:banghead:
  23. the guy he bought the truck from lived in arizona and told my neighbor he had the t-stat replaced with one that would open up full around 130. it worked perfectly fine, just not for the cold weather up here in colorado.