hex0rz

Geez! That thing is GONE!

Bump?

Take a bottle that you can use as a "puffer" and put any light powder such as flour, corn starch, powdered sugar, etc. and trace the oil leak. Should highlight the source for you pretty well.

Thanks, I appreciate it. I'd like to look into this more! I will not use the turbo as a band aid. I've been looking at the 4.10 gearing option. Found this: http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-5899-motive-gear-dana-60-ring-and-pinion-sets.aspx I need to look around more for better pricing options, though. Its pretty crazy to see 5.xx gearing. Would that be something to consider? Or is that too steep of gearing? I have always wondered if I could use the 1 and 2 gear to slow down more with the trailer hooked up. I dunno how they are supposed to be used technically. I did find a dana 60 at a wrecker back near home for $178. Its used though. But its 4.10 gear. They don't have any 70's though. I would like to consider the VGT setup since I'm still trying to get an exhaust brake. And convincing the wife to get a brake and turbo seperately would be harder than telling her about this!

That was a week ago! Don't ask me what I did an hour ago... I'm probably lucky to get out the door in the morning with my head on my shoulders still!

Those are some fine pictures!How'd did I remind you of it, BTW?

What keyword should I be using specifically to search for it appropriately? Does the 6.7 manifold bolt right on? The downpipe does not come with the turbo? If I had a 4" downpipe, it would make it that much easier for a 4" exhaust system, right? Man, ironic that the stock 6.7 turbo is great for us guys, but not good enough for the 6.7 guys. Can I make 40psi of boost with it? I'm starting to lean towards upgrading the flexplate and input shaft. I may even see about some other parts too. I'd also like to get lockup in 1st and 2nd gear. Can't remember if I read 1st gear lockup was bad or not. So its more of a fuel delivery aspect than boost pressure? 1500 degress?! I thought that was pretty much instantaneous piston melting craziness?

Alrighty, so I took a little time this evening to look over the starter. I can't say that I found anything more different than before I installed it on the truck. I spent some time soldering the brushes to the winding better. Had to breakdown to using a microtorch without the solder tip attachment. Also used silver solder instead of electrical or metal solder.I'm confident now it is not the contact with the brushes and windings. Something else is awry...Once I got it together again I hooked it up to my battery and "benchtested" it. Now, I'm confused! When I did it, the plunger pushes the pinion out, but there is no rotation. It just pops out and makes a clicking noise. The pinion just bounces.Mike, could you possible take some pictures of this indexing stuff you speak of? I dunno if this is whats affecting it or not. Should I snap pics for you guys to give you an idea of what I'm facing?

What gauges you get?

When I said, "Isn't that relative?" I meant isn't boost the same as cylinder pressure? Its a business back near home in Spokane Valley, Wa. I got my trans. temp. gauge from them. No, he said Special not single. I dunno what size my 75hp sticks are.. When should I go to a 4"? If ever at all? I dunno where I could ever begin to find a turbo? I've been looking into it a little and I'm unsure of all of whats involved? Sounds like there is a good bit of fab work for a person with a 4x4 truck. How is the retarding power of the turbo to work as an exhaust brake? I would still need a TC controller to make it work on my auto, right?

Geez! Southern Idaho is on fire! Thats a cool website! http://www.inciweb.org/incident/3567/ Looks like its not far from Wenatchee... He has not been on in a little while. Who knows? Looks like the map kind of shos point of origin of the fire as well? If so, looks like it moved south and not toward Wenatchee. Although, I dunno what county Wenatchee is in. That got to be one big fire!

Its been decommissioned to an extent... http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Nordberg/Nordberg2.htm

I'd like to hear it run..

So I just talked to a guy at a performance place. He said the VGT's are pretty problematic because of the vanes. It also can become pretty spendy after making the whole setup work. He said I would be better off just getting a bolt-in setup instead. Although, it does look like a cool setup! I'm really trying to increase power, pickup some fuel mileage and bring the EGT's down at the same time. I do not have an OEM brake, so I won't be worried about that. I've still got my eyes set on the Pacbrake system. Good thing about the pacbrake is that I can go to a 4" exhaust with it. I was hoping to ante up my boost pressures. I just keep remembering that for every pound of boost is equatable to 10hp. If I'm running a stock turbo and can only manage to lite the stock up and get it to max boost and then it gates-off, I'm only making as much as the turbo will let me. Cause technically I should be able to make 41-43 psi with my injectors and comp. I'm pretty ignorant of this side of the world, so I will say I can definitely be wrong in my thinking... I would agree with you about the gearing ratio. At first I was trying to think how I could make that work. But I guess there is not a while lot involved in switching gear ratios. Just get a ring and pinion and switch them out and your good to go! Now, with that being said though. If I go to 4.10's how much would my fuel mileage drop by for that though? I only suspect I will be pulling this trailer half a dozen times a year or so... Isn't that relative? I do not want to go any higher than I need that would end up requiring me to have to get studs and further transmission upgrades, etc. Where it becomes cost prohibitive for me to keep going. I do not want to use it for drag racing, sled pulling, etc. Just a street truck that can pull my house! Guy at the performance place recommend a super B special if I was going to do anything and take a step up... The other thing to keep in mind is I can only have my edge comp on setting 1. So with that setting and the sticks, I suppose that would be where I would want to match my turbo. Yea, maybe I'll just have to bite the bullet and go to a manual tranny instead... What about going to a 4" exhauts? I know it does not necessarily help increase power, but I assume it would help lower drive pressures and EGT's? I had a section of exhaust that was 4" in the system and I got it removed because it was corroding on me or something. After I it replaced back down to match the rest of the 3" system, I noticed the EGT's were higher running around. So I asked the guy about a propane injection setup and he says they can get them but also askd me why I wanted it. Told him for fuel mileage. Said he recommended the water/meth injection instead. Their description said a 1-2 mile increase but it also helps add power and lower egt's. Would the water/meth injection help me any or be of any benefit with where I sit now? I know, kinda off-topic.....

Nobody, eh?

I've got 75hp sticks and the edge comp. 5x5 gives me 120 horsies. That puts up there in the horse range, but my turbo is not going to use that much to make all that power. I would like to better match this with a turbo but have no idea which one would be right for me? I would like to shy away from having to do head studs, etc.I'm also hoping it will raise my mpg's back up as well? I do plan on an exhaust brake and I dunno if a 4" exhaust would be worth doing either?

http://activefiremaps.fs.fed.us/fireInfo.php?fireID=WA-SES-349 We've got a member here that is near the area. They are starting to issue evacuation orders. tsmithnw, is the member. Does not seem to be on very often. Hope he is doing okay?

http://www.kxly.com/news/spokane-news/crews-battle-fire-near-goldendale/-/101214/21230464/-/1234gw6z/-/index.html This fire has been smoking us out here in the Yakima Valley for a good week now. Sunrises make the smoke clouds look like storm clouds! Sure do wish I was doing the wildland thing!

Eh, maybe I'll ship it to you! :lol:I just could not go without fixing my truck. I had no option. Otherwise I may have not been able to get to work...

Mike, thank you for your help. I was not able to get it fixed, although. So I bought a new starter from O'reilly's. It comes with a lifetime warranty, $211 later...So, I decided to crack open the new starter and use the Larry B kit and make something out of the starter. I will have you know, these starters come with an oversize contact already in it! I took out the other side and put an oversize contact in that side. Plungers are identical.So, now I have an OEM starter sitting here that will essentially be a rebuild. Atleast good for another 100k miles. So, I think now that I do not have to worry about my truck starting, I can take my time fixing this one and making it right. Then I will try and sell it...I wonder if anyone will bite? Anyone need a starter?

Can you elaborate on this further for me?

Nice to see someone on here that is semi-local to me. I gre up in Spokane, then moved to Sandpoint. I'm out of town now, working in Yakima. Maybe our paths will cross someday!

BTW, you sig says you have a K&N air filter. Get rid of it...

Eh, thats the catch! Its a 140/100 watt solder gun. I'm not sure what you mean about indexing into the housing?I'm pretty sure I put the brushes on as good as they will get. I'll probably have to pull it again and look. I'm also concerned that maybe one of them is grounding out to the starter itself? I dunno.. :ahhh:Seems like there should be a better way to do this than soldering it. I'm wondering if buying a new starter would have been more worth it...

Need help! Can't get it bump since I was last poster...Mike, delete this for me when appropriate, please and thank you!