hex0rz

I'm having a hard time trying to locate the thread that I referred to on CF. They said to mount it on the line that comes out of the transmission towards the front of the transmission on the driver side. This line goes to the cooler on the front of the truck. Even still, I don't think that by the time the fluid reached the sender it would be less than 100 degrees... I will double check with the compay I bought the gauge from and see what they have to say as well when I pick the gauge up. If someone here can confirm with us exactly which line it is, I would appreciate it.

What hitch do you have? I got some dimensions to provide to pullrite that they will use to crunch and see how much of an angle of a turn I can take.

Man, last time we encountered a new guy with a neighboring dept. we had a sctructure fire and he burned up the pump in the engine! You guys still have steel cylinders? The composite ones are real nice. They even have smaller bottles now. I think its even got a higher pressure rating. Rated at 30 minutes, IIRC...

Who has a shortbed with a superglide?Having trouble figuring out the clearances for things and seein if they will work.Referring from pullrites manual for the #3346 kit, it says that dimension "A" should be centerline of leading trailer edge. What is defined as a leading edge of the trailer? It seems like in figure 1 it means the forward most point of the trailer that could possibly contact the cab. But then in parenthesis it says at the corner. Okay, well my trailer has scalloped corners. If I measure here, the king pin is located in front of the "leading edge".:ahhh:THEN, dimension "B". This works out for me, IF dimension A is good. But if not, that means I have to extend the pin box to remedy A, but then I cannot go over the restrictions of B?My trailers 104" wide. Manual says their #4400 is not meant for trailers over 96" wide?!...this is confusing and frustrating, all in the same. I do not see how this could not work? The guy that delivered my trailer used a short bed duramax with a curt manual slider! Did not even use the slider either!Only thing I can think of is that with the variables involved, pullrite would tell me that they cannot guarantee 90 degree turns......so why waste my time with an auto slider then, when I just watched the delivery guy back my trailer in with a manual! :banghead:

The builder is gifted. The buyer, waste of money...

...ahhh, widfire season. The joy of may things.Our little boy is all growed up!

...more money than brains.

Well, I went to the business today and the guy came out and helped me troubleshoot it. Took another trans. temp gauge that was made for a ford and hooke it up. Its all he had at the moment. It instantly read the temp. But it would not light up.So we put mine back in and he looked at it. Couldn't figure out what was going on. Got a test light and started poking around. We eventually figured out that my connector to the dimmer wire did not pierce the wire. So we took that off and hooked it up to the existing wire I have for my other 3 gauges. That definitely was a solid connection. Except even after that, the gauge would still not dim. Although, now with the test light, it showed it the wire functioning.As for reading, he was stumped. So he ordered another gauge. I'll have a new one I gotta go out and pick up in the next couple days.I located the sender on the output line from the transmission that goes to the radiator style cooler. Which I searched and found on CF that is the hot line I want to read from.When I had the ford gauge hooked up, I think it did read my trans. temp at 150. The gauge starts at 100 and goes to 280. But it don't make a lick of diff. if the gauge is bad. :lmao:If I still had the old gauge I would try and test the sender, but I don't. Not unless I can do it with a DMM?

Hey guys, got the trans. temp gauge installed. An isspro ev2. But I don't think its working properly. :banghead:I wired everything according per instructions. But the gauge does not show a reading on temp, nor does it dim.I have checked my wiring and I could'nt even fathom how any of it could be incorrect. I was thinking it was the gauge? Gonna go to the business I went to that I purchased it from. Did not know whether or not anyone would know whats going on?

Correct. I'm speaking of the 4 bolts that mount the fan to the block itself. Its a bracket for the fan/clutch. I have not heard of a timing cover seal. Its usually just rtv'ed on. Buy yourself BLACK rtv sealant and put a good bead on it... I do not think there is really any ways to tell if there is a groove without removing the cover. You could knock out the crank seal and look, but when I did that once, there was no way for me to put a new one on unless I took the cover off and mounted it to the cover first. You can get a crank seal/sleeve kit from O'reilly's. I had to do one to mine... I do not believe there is any difference between the two. As far as the kit goes, IMO, I think its just became a way for people to make an extra buck. The repair is simple to remedy. Disastrous if not prevented. Only time I could every justify getting the kit is if the pin ever fell out. Dunno where I would get a pin of that same make to replace it...

Alright guys, trying to install the gauge and pod, etc. Looking at the lines, I'm not sure of which line to connect the sensor to. Which is the outlet line from the transmission? Seems I have only 2 choices: 1. Line that goes to front cooler. 2. Line that goes to coolant exchanger.

If you still have the pin in place, don't waste your time buying the kit. Just get a fender washer from the hardware store for pennies and use a grinder to shape it into a tab. Thats What I did and it works like a charm!

I never took the fan itself off. Just remove the serpentine belt and undo the 4 bolts holding the fan/assembly on the block.

...that burst my bubble a little bit. I thought it replaced the OEM, not go over the top of it.

Yea, its a small world, after all. Thanks.

Yep, thats it. Everything is described to a "T". We thought it was in Missouri... Thanks for helping out. My father in-law raised the grandmothers kids. He received a call from one of the boys today about the news. None of her kids he helped raised was not murdered, thankfully. The man who did this was the boyfriend of one of the girls they raised... The girl is taking it very hard, I guess.. Very disturbing stuff, we are really saddened by it, and especially the fact there was a baby in the womb that died and the children... Man, bad stuff...

So, a priority on the list for the truck has been to add airbags to the rear. Back in my teens I got into the whole mini-truckin thing. It sits in he driveway now, unfinished. Dunno if I will ever have money to finish it to get her going again. But, the kicker is, I have an airbag suspension on it. I figure, instead of everything on it just sitting there, why not put it to use?I've got 2 compressors on it, 4 air bags, a big tank, lines, valves, etc. All needed to make a mini-truck do its thing. So, what do I need to get to put these parts on the dodge?The most I could really think of is the mounting brackets?

Alright, looking for anyone who lives in Missouri. Need to see if you have seen or heard anything on the news about this:Just recently, within a few days or so ago, my wife had some of her extended family murdered. I guess it was 6 people murdered and the guy was shot and killed by the police.If anyone here lives in Missouri and remembers hearing about this, please, I would appreciate a link to the story to share with her family.

You could leave it on 24/7. Won't harm anything. Its better if you do, in fact. Only thing you may notice over a period of time is a more frequent need to clean the sensors at the intake as soot will get backpressured. It also sounds like you have an auto? In that case, it will only engage over 35mph because of the torque converter lockup. Anything slower than 35mph, sounds like its not capable of lockup as it probably downsifts to 2nd. Some vehicles allow a 2nd gear lockup thoug. Valve body mods can allow for this also.

I would go gooseneck if I could. My truck is a shortbed. So doing a goose setup is not possible for me. It disappoints me enough already as I thought this brand spankin' new trailer I got would have been designed well enough to allow for towing with a short bed... I've gotta look into a capture plate now, too. I guess I'll try and sell the brackets when I get it or I'll give them away... I would think the brackets should work? The hitch comes with the super rail setup, so I dunno if your brackets are made to accept this?? If it will fit my truck and rails, I would gladly give you the $100 to buy them from you. Whattya mean, ride? As in drive up here? I can always pay shipping, too.

Well, I CANNOT add more than 3500. I would be over gross weight of the trailer. As you already know drip, I be pushing the limits. If I move anywhere, I do not want any of the tanks full. All empty for transport. Yes, it is used. But even with the used ones, I have not seem them any cheaper than $1000. What I'm trying to figure out is if it has any safety factor built into it. Yes its rated 16k. But what does it really hold? Does that mean I will push it past 16k? Certainly hope not! But just not sure about it all as I have never been in the RV lifestyle.

It has instructions. Just sucks in a way that it was not OEM. What do you mean cut a piece? Do the barbs push into anyting or is it just a means to add friction?

Martial Law #2 :banghead:

So a guy here locally is selling an Pullrite superglide. He is asking $650 for it with brackets and rail included. It came off his '04 dodge. Here is some pics he sent me: As you can see here, its a 16k hitch. My trailer can rate gross at 16.5k. If I were to get this hitch, would I need to worry about it failing with this hitch? I have a cargo capacity of 3500 or so pounds. I will be full-timing my trailer, but how much does one think they could put in a trailer to make 3500lbs.? I was thinking the hitch would do and would be okay. It sounds like a great price for the hitch as well. Anyone know if the brackets would work for my dodge?

ordered myself up a steering column gauge pod for a trans. temp gauge. Its an autometer pod. I'm a little thrown off by it. There are no obvious ways of mounting it? It came with some sticky tape and barbed fasteners. How are these pods monted properly? BTW, I have not broke into the column to see what to expect yet. I figured someone on here ought to know?