hex0rz

Right on, it seems its been a day late and a dollar short for me to realize that you have not even made a presence recently.I'm sure the work is still there, building all those chick-fil-a's and all!

Well, me, being in the North part of Idaho, we have had our fair share of wolves. I have not physically seen one as of yet, but have encountered tracks and the likes. Paw print was BIGGER than my HAND! My father in law saw one just north of town a couple years ago.Many people get to see them and even occassionally get visited by them even around their houses. It just depends on how often you are out in the woods or in the right spot.In CDA, ID, the local paper released an article last year warning residents of the city that they should expect to see wolf presence sometime in the near future. THE CITY!!!I carry a .45 and ALWAYS a rifle with me into the woods. We've got Grizzes, cougs, wolves and the infamous bigfoot.

What did you do specifically for checking for blowby? A compression test would really only be the real way to test for that. But, you would have different problems than your oil level rising.First, its a good idea to check and see WHAT is causing your oil to rise. Is it antifreeze, or is it diesel? Oil will be a creamy color if there is antifreeze.Diesel in your oil will need to have a "paper towel" test performed to get an idea of any diesel in the oil. Take a paper towel, let one drop of oil fall onto the paper towel. Make sure the towel is not folded. Allow the oil to soak into the towel. If it quickly dissipates and becomes more transluscent, then you have diesel in the oil. Especially if the drop turns into about the size of a quarter.This is by no meas a professional way at determing fuel level in the oil. An oil analysis or physically pulling the injectors and getting them bench tested will be the best way to tell you what is going on.I would also advise against driving the truck until you can figure out what is going on. Diesel does not make a good lube!

Whatchya mean?Does my modded valve body change that?

I've lost my touch on resources with the net... Used to be able to get anything I wanted off of the net! Is the autocad hard to use or navigate? - - - Updated - - - Lol, ehh, which one do I wanna pick?

I put a spring on mine and I was able to find a size spring the OP in the CF recommended, but it to me seems too short. It was probably pretty stiff to be using. When I first installed it, I got to almost 3k rpm before it would even shift out of 1st. Stretched the spring more and now I got it to shift into 2nd at about 2k rpm. Wont shift into 2nd with a heavy throttle until about 2,200 rpm. Shift into 2nd at about 18mph and 3rd at about 30mph.I noticed that shortly after, the 3rd lockup occurs. Downshifting is not much noticeable and any extra "braking power" is not increased.Dunno how to tell if I can feel any increase in line/clutch pressure, but then again I dunno how to feel what constitutes a slippage either...

Dang you... I want an autocad program so bad! I have so many inventions to draw up...

Because of the injector being stuck open, I would look at the cylinder that it was in for washdown with a compression test and/or do an oil change or analysis as the diesel fuel from that injector probably did some damage.

On my old truck that was a GMC, I could remove a PS line and drain the fluid out that way. But when I re-did the seal with the kit I flushed the PS fluid and I tried every line to the pump and none of them blew fuid out of their lines.How do you flush the fluid from the PS system?

What about this product? Anyone use it before? http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/

Which one specifically?

So I did the spring deal and I dunno what to be looking for on how to have it adjusted at. I did a zip tie and I had it to where it would shift into 2nd at 20mph and 3rd at 30mph. Bought a spring like the guy said on CF and 1" seems too short. Wont shift into 2nd until like 25mph and 3rd until 35mph or so. Gonna stretch the spring more to make it shift sooner so it is not revving so high and later. What would be a good adjustment?

Well, gave ATS a call and played 21 questions with a guy, "Allen". Seemed pretty cool. Real patient with my questions. Seems like the CoPilot would be a good thing to have for my exhaust brake and general towing as well. Asked if he thinks my tranny would be able to handle it and he said that I should be fine as long as I keep the settings up higher than 1 and 2.Although, $600 is hard to swallow...

Dang! Man, that is no good....Last year, I got a AD165 and in less than 6 months the pump burned out on me. Kept blowing fuses. Turned out the pump seal went bad and the fuel got into the pump.Called AD and they asked if I had a warranty. Yep, they 3-dayed it I think for free. So far so good...They seem to be REAL black and white with someone if you don't file your warranty.

I got a quote from line-x locally for some work and was not too impressed. I then became convinced that I will DIY it one day when I find alot of time on my hands. I've looked into this: http://www.alsliner.com/alsliner Alot of people swear by it. Look at this: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/accessories-installations/173825-als-liner-diy-spray-bedliner-kit.html Great thing is, they allow you to color match, make any texture you want, and for alot cheaper!

HA! Yea, I looked in my owners manual and it wont even list 3.55 gear.... LOOK AT THIS! http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/towing-hauling/470937-whats-heaviest-youve-towed.html ^ These boys are pulling some extreme loads!

Would you mind providing me with the link on CF? I tried to search it up, but only came up with people asking questions on how to adjust it...I was quoted for the flexplate job from the same guy I got the transmission re-built from. I think it was like $600. Flexplate included or less if I provided.I dunno whats involved in replacing the input shaft though..As for 2nd gear shifting, I dunno what to feel for when doing it. I use my 2nd gear shift quit a bit when going on off-ramps, or going downhill. But I dunno if its locked up or not.

The chart has the data I listed in my first post. The dry weight of the trailer at 13,xxx K lbs. includes the furniture, etc. Not including the things I would have to add. I have replaced my radiator and gone through the cooling system. I plan on using an exhaust brake in conjunction with everything else. Biggest thing I think is suspension. But I don't get why that would matter much about how much I can tow/haul as its the same for the 3/4 trucks but fall in different category's because of their tranny, gear ratio, etc. I dunno if they will ever go with hitching it up and towing it, but then again I never asked. I have never had to deal with a DOT cop. Can they pull you over for the hell of it just to see if your compliant? That does'nt sound right to me... I would not have to go through weigh stations either, would I? Also, how could they even tell, in reality, how much I would weigh? Pin weight for the listed trailer is 3100 lbs. Going dually is out of the question as well. The boss lady would have my rear if I pushed that idea. Are you saying I should stay away from the 5th wheel in general or just this one specifically? Well, ultimately, I'm banking on going to Yakima, Wa for about 2 1/2 years worth of work by fall. Pull it from North Idaho down that direction and stay there. Probably about 4 hour drive one way. But I would like to occassionally come back "home" once a month or so and see family. Dunno if that would be defined as frequent...

Elaborate on this spring on a tv cable thing and the gear selector? I also stated in another thread that pacbrake never told me it was necessary to have billet in the tranny to use their EB. Not to say it would be a bad idea, but I don't have the money to throw at it again like that for the moment. Hope I don't regret it... I keep leaning towards pac-brake but man, the vacuum setup is so tempting. Less crap to put on the truck, it seems. I have tossed the idea around to convert the truck to a manual, but the wife would kill me... I plan on getting a trailer, either a travel trailer or 5th wheel for work. I live in the PNW and we do have mountains and grades, etc. I would prefer to have one as I do not want to have to rely on just the brakes and gearing on the truck. The more braking the better! I'm not sure exactly what the tow valve body has entailed in it. The owner of the tranny shop told me he'd put one in for me as I told him that I had plans on towing/hauling with it. The most he told me is that will rev higher than OEM valve body. I'm not sure if it will allow 2nd gear lockup. It might have the capability and he just never mentioned it. I would like to know more about the ATS copilot as I read a little that it can help me attain the lower gear lockup, etc. But I dunno if its reliable or not and whether they fixed the problems I have read about?

Hmm, this brings up a good question...Where are these ABS sensors located? I have an ABS light on the dash, but I have yet to see where the sensors are located, etc. I do not remember ever having to disconnect anything of the sort on the rear or front ends.Pics?

:2cents:Go with heavy steel and put some sort of bedliner on it.That'll be what I do... Al's Liner!

Maybe the vacuum pump or hydroboost?

http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/steering-box-stabilizer.htm ^Give this a try. http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/ ^ This too!

Does pacbrake use the ATS copilot on their auto setup? I see pacbrake endorsing ATS' copilot on their site. They do not specifically mention it with their auto kit though. Just on some pages they mention the copilot. Your statement confuses me also; I talked to pacbrake and they said that an upgrade on internal parts was not necessary to use it. ALSO, the TC switch is something I personally would never recommend. I've read way too much about the risk of damaging the tranny. Some have recommended only if you have all billet in the tranny. Its a costly risk to take IMO...

Alright fellas, I need to put this issue at rest! I'm torn on what to pick for an exhaust brake! I have an auto so its not as cut and dry as it would be for someone with a manual. If you guys would not mind, please use the poll. I'm trying to obviously keep the cost down, but when some have better features, technology, etc. it is worth paying a little extra. Exhaust brakes themselves are not as an issue as is the controller for the transmission. Was looking at the ATS coPilot as I was reading I could control the point at when the tranny would unlock. Therefore controlling how effective the EB would be at a slower speed.. If you have a suggestion of a different product, post up!