Doubletrouble

Finally have pics of the auxilary tank for those of you that are interested. I need to clean it up, maybe polish it and make it shine again. Then test it for leaks. I was told it does have a small leak on the driver's side (as the tank is installed) so I'll have to look into that.

I'm considering the gravity feed as well. Not sure which way I want to go just yet. It would be cool to just flip a switch and start transferring fuel. On the other hand, gravity feed is a pretty simple setup, no worries about a pump failure.

I'll check out transferflow, thanks! A friend of mine had an inline pump on his. He did forget to cut it off once. But only once. He had fuel coming out of the filler cap and down the side of the truck.

So I came across a deal on a 90 gallon L shaped auxilary fuel tank to mount in the bed of the truck. It's used but still good. I have never had one nor mounted one in a truck. I was wondering if someone on here has had one and mounted it. Any tips on how to do so? Also, if you have one are you gravity feeding it to the main tank or did you install an inline fuel pump? I have a small inline pump on the shelf and was thinking about using it with this tank to fill the main tank with a flip of a switch. Thoughts?? I'll be getting the tank sometime over the weekend so I'll post up pics once I have it. Thanks for any input.

Great write up @Mopar1973Man, I to noticed a difference over the winter in regards to the intake air Temps. Once I installed my winter front my IAT came up considerably and she ran better, better mpg's and a bit better heat from the vents as well as faster initial warm up. I am still running the stock 190° thermostat and noticed these differences with no tuner.

New alternator is now installed. She's alive!!! Removed the old one and spun the pulley and the bearings seem nice and smooth. Had a conversation with @Mopar1973Manyesterday, I think I will rebuild the original with new brushes and regulator, clean it up and stock it on the shelf for a spare. Never hurts to have apare parts!

Not really, I'd have to drive 1/2 hour to get to a test bench. New one should be here today.

Ugh, I'll be honest. I didn't check any of that and I never got the pcm protect fuse installed. I know the alternator was only putting out 12.5 volts, if that was output. It could have been battery voltage. No 14v present so I ordered up an alternator. The truck is my daily and need it back. At the moment I'm stuck using my dad's mustang. Talk about 10lbs of taters in a 5lbs bag! Man those cars are small!

Fired up the truck this morning to go to the tire shop for 4 new tires on the rear axle, got 1 mile down the road and the "check gauges" light lit up. Voltage low on instrument cluster. Thought maybe the 150amp breaker tripped in the charge lead. Nope, it was fine. Turned around and went back home. Pit a voltage meter to the stud on the back of the alternator and she read 12.8v. I guess it's time. Ugh!!! If it isn't one thing it's another!

I can't speak to O'riley's but I used to be a loyal autozone customer. I have noticed in the past several years their quality has dropped dramatically. Their "lifetime" parts are cheap Chinese made garbage which allows them to keep handing you a new replacement every year or two. I have a local Napa store near me and I have to say the quality of the parts there is much better than AZ. I will pay a bit more to save on doing the labor involved all over again. In general though, replacement part quality I believe has suffered everywhere to some degree or another. Just my $.02

Is there also a friction modifier that needs to be added to the diff oil? This is something I need to do this year as well.

So either the adrenaline installed the issue stopped or was it the repair on the map sensor plug?.....or, is it still doing the same thing?

Definitely do the crank case breather mod. (I believe there is an article on that as well). That cleaned up the front on my engine, also helps to keep my new radiator from getting all oily.

This is the carnage from my nv4500 after having the oem oil in it for I assume 187k miles. I bought the truck used so I don't know for sure if it had ever been changed. I rebuilt the trans myself and on @Mopar1973Man's advice I now use the sae 50w in the trans.

The atf is for the transfer case

I like @Mopar1973Manput 50 SAE trans oil in my 5 speed after a recent rebuild. So far I'm happy with it. I do notice it being a bit thick on cold morningmore start the engine (clutch in) and let her run til the oil pressure builds the release the clutch and let the oil in the trans circulate a minute before I take off. It don't take long to notice the oil in the trans has warmed a bit.

I don't completely disagree agree with you @Tractorman, the oem injectors will run a long time. To a person that owns one for a long period of time the change would be minute. The big issue long term is that if an old injector were to fail in a worse fashion it would suddenly dump fuel like mad into a cylinder and wash it out scarring the walls and wiping out the rings. Now there is a rebuild needed. Alot of what we do is preventative maintenance. These engines will last a very long time if cored for and the warning signs taken seriously. Not saying that this scenario will be on every injector at a given milage but it does happen. The prevention is worth the expense. Back to the OP's original issue. I see that he has an H.O. vp44 pump. Could that have an impact on the timing changing as he states? @Mopar1973Man may be able to answer that, myself I don't know for sure. Just a thought.

Thanks @Mopar1973Man, I couldn't have explained it that well.

@Tractorman, I don't feel signed out at all. All opinions are welcome here. Just trying to help a fellow 2nd gen owner out. @Mopar1973Man may be able to explain the relation of idle to weak injectors better than I can. My theory is this: the injectors fire when the pump pressure overrides the spring of the injector. Springs get weak over time, I think we can all agree on that. With as many cycles as these springs see in a lifetime there is no doubt they will loose some tension which in turn changes the timing of the injection event. Weak springs will fire sooner (advance) over time. Also, the internal needle and seat inside the tip will also wear and not seal as well as when new. They will begin to leak. I've driven large diesel trucks for many years. Injectors do wear out, go bad and cause issues. When I changed my injectors I went with 100hp from DAP, I noticed immediately that it would start up a bit faster in the colder weather, when it was warm out even quicker. That has just been my experience.

Being the idle is above 800 and the load is at 0% your injectors may be weak. If you don't trust that scanner can you borrow one from somewhere? Just to get you an accurate reading. When my injectors were bad my truck idled at around the same as yours and showed 0% load at idle. I believe they were the oem injectors with 150k+ on them. Generally that don't last much past 100-120k miles.

With your scanner hooked up look at the engine idle speed and the percent of.load at idle. That will give a clue to the health of the injectors. Engine should idle at 800rpm and load should be roughly 5%. If there is no load at idle and the idle fluctuates it indicates the injector pop pressure is low. There is also a possibility it could be something in the ecm.

The keys are selected when the pump is being tested and calibrated. They are a specific size to obtain the proper timing for that particular pump.

I won't claim to know alot when it comes to a vp44 install, I have yet to do one myself. I do know that if you don't use the key the new pump comes with it can mess with things. I don't know if the pump will compensate for something being "off".

Mainly watching for engine load change for no reason. On flat ground, cruise set the engine load shouldn't change a whole lot. If it is then something may be causing the timing to fluctuate for no reason. Engine load is what would cause the computer to change timing.