Doubletrouble

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/19825-nv450-5speed-blew-at-184k-miles/?page=2 hopefully the link will work. That'll take you to it.

I did not do anything with 5th but the previous owner did. It had a non oem nut on it. It was a split nut with a small bolt to tighten it up on the threaded shaft. When I did the rebuild it came off with little effort. I belive it would have failed eventually. Tranny had 183k when the bearings failed. The bearing aren't considered a weak point. I belive the bearing failure is due to the thin oil used per oem and possibly lack of proper oil change intervals. When it failed I had put about 45k on the truck so I blame both the PO for not changing the oil and also myself for not doing it when I first purchased the truck. As far as swapping to a 5600, there really is no gain in my opinion. The final ratio is very close to that of the 4500 and parts availability is an issue also parts for the 5600 are much more expensive. The 5600's weren't as widely used as the 4500. 4500's could be found in dodge, GM and ford trucks along with the likes of panel trucks such as FedEx or ups use. If those trucks were a diesel and manual trans it was essentially the same engine/trans that we have in our truck. (The big panel trucks, I think they're like a 2.5 ton platform) A friend of mine at the moment is rebuilding his 5600, it going to cost him close to 3k just in parts. I did my 4500 myself with new upgraded clutch for about 2k. The clutch was half of the cost. I posted a thread on the rebuild, find that and you'll see what all I did. And I listed all the costs at the end as well.

True, I was thinking of my situation. I to was considering welding mine a year ago or so as a precaution, I didn't. Fast forward to late October '23 and the trans grenades. It wasn't the 5rh gear, the front counter shaft bearing ate itself. Had I welded the 5th gear I would have had to do what ever it take to cut through, remove, the main shaft. I also like to know when something is done correctly rather than wonder if a bandaid I put on something will hold. In the end, it's your truck, do it however you want. I'm just offering my opinion based on some of my experience.

You would have to cut through the gear itself and the shaft. The gear when installed is very close to the case so getting in between the gear and case to cut the shaft will be nearly impossible.

The problem with welding is that will complicate things later and still may not hold. The core issue is the oem main shaft is not fully splined for the 5th gear. It causes the gear to wobble on the splined shaft which in turn works the nut loose. Even welded, with the torque the engine pushes through the trans will eventually break the welds ad well. I would run it til you have to rebuild it and do it right, replace the main shaft with a full spline piece, use a 5th locking system and loctite.

If you really don't want to pull it at this time you could look into one of the 5th gear fixes out there. They usually come with a new 5th gear, a different design nut/keeper. There are a few designs out there. This could be done in the truck. You'll have to pull the T-case of course. Then remover the tail housing, 5th gear is right there. I would not recommend welding it, that will create more issues later when you do dig into it to do it right

As for IAT, I use a winter cover I ordered from Geno's Garage, one of our vendors here on the site. It works very well. We were in the single digits one night I checked with my obd scanner while driving 60mph getting 80°F at the IAT. And the whole thing is behind the grill, can't even see it and keeps people honest.

@kbf98520, you've come to the right place. I've been hanging out here for roughly 4 years now I think. I've learned alot. I also have an '01 (see sig) it's a fun truck to drive. My favorite so far, ive owned many trucks over the years, this is my first diesel.

I don't know what exactly happened or who may have voiced an opinion but I for one would like to keep up on the progress of your journey through cancer. Whatever was written and shared in the posts was there to just communicate your progress, struggles and coping mechanisms. If someone don't agree with any of that then that's fine but do we really need to make issue of it? Everyone deals in their own way, to each their own I say. I hope you reconsider your decision @Mopar1973Man. You have been here helping everyone on the issue of trucks among other things. I'd be happy to be here and do what I can to help you in your time of need. We have never met face to face but I consider you a good friend.

Have you checked for ac noise in the charging system? I see you did the w-t ground mod but did you take a reading before and after? Just curious. Also @Mopar1973Man, would you have a pic of the military style battery terminal you mention above? I've been considering installing new ones on mine as well. Thanks.

I'm up for a zoom call over the weekend if we could coordinate a time that works for a few of us I'm up for it

Woke up this morning and checked the outside temp on my weather app. It's a toasty 1°F here with wind chills sitting at -23° , it's a bit chilly out there.

That would be a great time! Somehow some way maybe we can make that happen.

Yes @JAG1 it is. I see it daily since I drive for a living. The lack of courtesy on the road anymore is disgusting to say the least.

My bet would be the starter is bad. Just my $.02 I've had old chevy trucks in the past that had the same problem, tap the starter with a hammer or something and she starts. That'd be enough to get you home so you could replace it

I don't know what new spec would be on resistance. I didn't think to ohm the new one before install. I know the new one works though. She started just fine at work this morning at 30°F and I could see the dash lights dim when it cycled on, voltage drop on the gauge also.

Replaced the grid heater today, all seems well now. Got it done just in time as we have a cold snap coming in this weekend. Saturday nights low will be 7°F. Gonna need that grid working! Very straight forward repair. Simply remove and replace. I put the ohm meter on the old one. Not sure what specs are but it showed about 21 ohms on each post to ground. Seems high to me but I could be wrong.

Pack a large cooler and stay hydrated, that's a long drive!

@Tractorman, I didn't take it the way you think. I just kinda wanted to share a little of what I have had going on. I didn't take your comment any sort of way at all.

@Tractorman, I haven't had the time I haven't shared alot of my personal issues lately but I've been very busy. My mother had a serious infections back in August due to diabetes, diabetic ulcers on both her legs. She was hospitalized for about 8 weeks. Just after she got to go home my dad was in a serious head on accident totalling both dodge ram 1500's involved. He is still in a nursing home for rehab. Hos accident was on Oct 27th. So I've been busy dealing with all their stuff. Caring for mom, running around taking care of insurance issues from the accident, prepping their house for mobility purposes so they can both get around better and eliminate some of the possibility of them falling since the live in a slip level home. It's been alot to take on and I thank my wife everyday for her jumping in to help as much as she does. Anyway, in a nut shell, priorities have been shifted to my parents for a while and my winter preparations were kind of sidelined.

So here lately it's been getting colder and things have been working just fine. WTS light comes on, then off and she fires up just fine until....... When getting ready to leave work a few days ago I went to start her up.lile always but when I hit the key she didn't fire right away like normal. It hit one 1 or 2 cylinders and began to chug and huff smoke like mad. It caught me off gard so I immediately shut her dow to evaluate the situation. I listened for the lift pump, it's working, but I noticed the voltage gauge wasn't dipping like it should with the draw if the grid heaters. So I then cranked her over and let it run, it fired on a few cylinders again and after a few seconds smoothed out and all was good. Next morning after the truck sat out in 25°F Temps I Bagan diagnosing. First with a test light then the DVM. The grids are getting power but making no heat what so ever. Didn't even get warm to the touch. I've ordered a new unit from Amazon (would have used DAP or Genos Garage but I need it quickly), should be here Tuesday. Not a difficult fix, just thought I'd share in case anyone runs across these symtoms.

Snowing here this morning as well. I don't know who ordered this but I'm not ready for snow yet.

I don't know about ya'll but the older I get the more I don't like the cold so I'm a fan of global warming!

We may be getting some here in ohio Saturday. So far they say possibly 1-3 inches

I finally have time to put together a price list of what i bought to do this job. Sorry it took so long...... @Royal Squire Allstate gear: counter shaft Part # NV22657 $174.25 input shaft Part # NV25356 $62.50 master rebuild kit Part # NV4500-KITA $379.80 shipping $55.28 total $671.83 Transmission Parts Distributors: cast iron tailhousing Part # 334770A $125.77 Thoroughbred Diesel: South Bend Clutch Part # 13125-OK-HD $962.40 Amazon: NV4500 input shaft bearing retainer $39.95 5th gear nut wrench $15.50 Fel-Pro 40650 rear main seal kit $32.90 Other various expenses totaling $146.00 Grand Total $1994.35 the other various expenses were a few tools needed and the 1 Gallon of oil for the transmission.