Doubletrouble

We will put a deposit down in August for next season (2024) so we will have it as long as we want doing it that way. We can also leave our camper on the site through winter for $75. That way we don't have to tear anything down and move it. Just pack it all up and secure things for the off season. Some things will come home such as the golf cart and maybe outdoor furniture.

Campground is located in Wauseon Ohio. Season starts April 21 through Oct 1. Season passes start at $1550 per season, that includes electric. Most seasonal spot do not have sewer so you either transport it to the dump station or just pay the campground to pump out your tanks ($14) They have a bunch of different events through the season. This year they added the first annual car show. Don't know if they'll allow motorcycles but if they do I'll put my harley in it. I see you did some research @IBMobile, the camper is 36' with 3 slides and weights are correct.

As the title states, we are going seasonal at our favorite "local" campground. It's about an hour drive from home but out in the middle of farm country. We've been going there as weekenders for the past 3 years and love the place. We have a few friends that are seasonal there as well so we decided to do the same. Per camp rules our 1994 Coachman is to old so we also had to purchase a newer used fifth wheel. We found a 2012 keystone cougar we liked and put money down on her. We will be able to pick it up on May 6th after they go though and do service and inspections and fix a couple things I pointed out. For the time being we are keeping the '94 for travel purposes. That way if we want to travel with a camper we don't have to uproot the seasonal spot. This is our spot, the camper will be gone to move ours in, the deck and shed stay. This is the 2012 camper we bought to go out there. I will post more pics once we get setup.

100% on all of that. I made sure mine was factory stock unmolested. That way I know exactly what was done and when and by whom. I have been the only person to touch her with a wrench since I got her and it will stay that way.

You can buy a tester for a 7 pin/blade plug on the truck. That would tell you instantly if the short is in the truck wiring. In my experience the issue is usually the trailer wiring.

I'm jumping in kind of late but am I understanding this correctly, the $400 fixes the ecm, harness was tested/repaired and a replacement pcm? If so, I don't think that's unreasonable really. If I had major electronic issues like this I would hand it off to ACS and gladly pay the $400 if it got my truck back on the road. I have spent more on frivolous things. I need my truck. I hope @JJSNOW can somehow work through this. I get that things can get very frustrating and it can ignite a short fuse at times.

I to would stick with 2nd gen. They're pre-emissions as well so you don't have to worry about any of that. Thing is, how bad is the cylinder wall scored? If it isn't bad a good hone could fix it. If your not into rebuilding it consider finding a good running replacement. I'm not sure what a 24v goes for separate from the truck, guess would be maybe 2k-3.5k ? Which is a far cry from the 11 plus you mentioned.

I don't know how attached tou are to that truck but just for comparison, $13k would get another running truck in my area. I've seen them go for less than 9k, might be worth looking fir a donor engine that runs and do a comp test on it before purchase.

Finally had a moment to pull the battery out yesterday, put it on the charger for the night at 2amps. Load tested it today, it tested good. Reinstalled it then fired it up for the first time this year! She rumbled to life with a vengeance, sounded like music to my ears. Might be able to get a short ride in tomorrow.

At least you have a good idea on the direction of impact. You'll be able to push in the opposite direction to counter the damage. There may be some metal stretch, I've heard you can "shrink" it using heat then quickly after apply cold. May be worth googling. Lol Keep us posted as you go and we like pics, just sayin.

I don't blame ya, I'm not a fan of it anymore.

Replacement cover looks very good. I've been looking around for covers and honestly I think I might just find some decent seats from a salvage yard. It would be alot cheaper. Lol they get some premium prices for them covers. We'll see though.

@Tim Waldo, ok gotcha. I remember reading some of the original post of the vp44 issues. I guess I just forgot who it was that had posted it. Got me a little confused. I'm all better now. Lol

Is that Styrofoam? It can't be snow.......lol

I don't recall this being mentioned prior to now. Did I miss something?

Did it tweak the front door frame to? I would try to fix it. I'm no boddy guy by any means but I think it could be done. On a side note, may I ask where the seat covers came from? They look pretty good.

After I looked at the pic I understand your concern. The sensing end within the intake melted. I assumed the plug end melted. Somehow there is an excessive amount of heat getting into the intake track. Do you have boost gauges? Was it building that same amount of boost? I would think a valve hanging open would affect that reading? Maybe with the engine cold, pull the valve cover and check valve lash? Also, inspect the turbo for shaft play? I don't know if it's possible for heat to transfer to the pressure side due to a failure within the turbo? I'm spitballing here, I'm sure so.one else may have better ideas. I'll be watching, I'm curious of the cause now as well

This stuff here made by S100. Works great, leaves the black looking almost wet and new. The spray tip you see goes on the can and has a wide spray pattern for better coverage. Just a light coat on a cold engine and let it be.

There is a product to spray on the wrinkle finish of the engine. Turns it nice and black again, like new. I do mine once or twice a year depending on how dirty it gets.

It's been a bit warmer lately but the warmth seems to also bring rain. I haven't had a chance to get the Harley out yet.

Glad to hear you finally got her back on the road! That's great! Those ground issues are a serious thing, even more so with an automatic trans. When dodge engineered that they were not anticipating these trucks longevity. With the cummins engine and proper maintenance along with some modifications to the wire harness they will run a very long time. There are a few other factory short falls but most of us have fixed those by now also.

Not sure I've heard of these. But I'll do some checking.

Interesting idea.

I saw that on tiktok. Wow, terrible for the driver of the car. Hope they weren't injured. Sadly that would do nearly the same thing to a heavier vehicle as well. As far as your comments @Mopar1973Man, you are absolutely correct. Even just changing the backspacing on a factory wheel with spacers will alter the stresses on wheel bearings and steering. Add in poor maintenance practices and you have a catastrophic failure like in the video above and someone gets hurt.

I will need new tires by the end of summer. Thinking about using balance beads to keep the tires balanced through the life of the tire. I've used them in motorcycle tires with good results. Never in car/truck tires yet. Shocks, are newer KYB.