Joe_Pool

Well, here is the "rare" winter cover. Attached are a couple pictures of the winter cover that came with my '02. I just put it on a new grill for display purposes. The cover wraps around the grill and covers about 6" of the hood. It attaches with Velcro, straps and wedges (no tools needed). It can be rolled down and secured with attached straps. This is the OEM winter grill. It has a split zipper to open. It has a non-absorbent felt backing and an upper "air wedge" to keep it tight to the hood. First picture is fully open Second picture is fully closed Third picture shows portion that goes over the hood

I have been running Odyssey 34M-PC1500 AGM batteries for 8 years so far with excellent results (880 CCA @ 0 degrees F x 2 = 1760 CCA total). You get a battery that fits the tray, has the standard top terminals and SS studs for accessory connections.

If you haven't decided on air suspension yet, you might want to look at this companies towing system -- air front replacement and 4-link rear. https://www.airbagit.com/category-s/2292.htm Scroll down to your year frame.

Just a note for all of you rebuilding your TracLoks. Match mark the case halves as the bearing mounts are machined with the unit assembled. Also match mark any parts to be reused (internals don't like to be rearranged). The close up is of a factory paint match mark and the overall shows match marking for reassembly. Hope this helps.

Check local rental yard -- you may be able to rent a case spreader (be sure to have a dial indicator -- no more than .015" spread!).

Might also check cmgearworks.com Large supplier of OEM Dana/Spicer parts (located in Springfield, MO) Dana/Spicer 2003857 TL overhaul kit 295.00 [Dana 80, 35 spline, Dodge & Ford] Clutches only 225.00 [old p/n 2003819 -- new p/n 702009, for D70 or D80]

NIsaacs You might want to try loading that skidsteer the other way (back it in). The way you have it, it is a "float" load -- not enough on the tongue. Float loads don't add enough traction weight on the trucks rear axle. Just a thought to consider in the future. Joe

What year is the truck and is it a 12 or 24 valve?

For speed adjustment: (new tire diameter*/original tire diameter*) X speedometer reading = corrected speed * can be mm/inch/feet... -- both must be the same units 235/85R16 = 31.7" (235mm/25.4mm)" X (.85 X 2) + 16" = 31.7" 245/70R19.5 = 33.0" (245mm/25.4mm)" X (.70 X 2) + 19.5" = 33.0" 33.0/31.7 = 1.04 Multiply indicated speed by this number to get actual speed (+4%)

Assuming that you were in 6th gear (.73:1). Axle ratio = [(engine rpm) (tire diameter in inches)] / [(mph) (336) (transmission gear ratio)] ? = [(1825 rpm) (33.4")] / [(70 mph) (336) (.73)] answer = 3.55 rear axle gear ratio If you pull the diff cover you will find that Dana gears are marked on the ring gear like this. At the top you will see 43X13, that is 43 teeth on the ring gear and 13 teeth on the pinion. 43/13=3.5384 or 3.54 gear ratio.

If you have a bed mounted fifth wheel or gooseneck, bed tilting is a no go unless you like removing and reinstalling those mounts. If no bed mounted hitch, the following will work: Remove DS bolts and loosen PS bolts (just a few turns holding). Loosen exhaust to lower it in the rear. Disconnect the fuel fill and breather hoses. Remove any ground straps, etc. that will impede bed lifting. Remove spare tire and lift tube that goes through the rear crossmember. Disconnect rear wiring connections and conduit from clips to allow slack. Use a bottle jack and wood (2x8s) blocks on top of DS tire and against inside top of wheel well. As you lift the bed, place blocks between frame and bed and you will have plenty of room to pull the sender right out of the top of the tank. Don't force it -- if it doesn't tilt easily look for any missed fasteners, wire looms, etc. The bed will tilt nearly 45 degrees if you need it. Joe

For axle shafts go to ECGS (East Coast Gear Supply). On left side of home page go to "Dana 60 Corner" and click on "Dana 60 axle/stubs shafts" Scroll down to the 4th row and click on the 35 spline CAD delete axle shafts for 00-02 Dodge. Part numbers are: AX-D60-35CAD-LATE [the long side -- passenger side] [$245.00] AX-D60 35CAD-S-LATE [the short side -- driver side] [$245.00] You will also need the seals that pop up on the pages -- due to larger diameter shafts. [$45.00 each] With these you can then use a 35 spline diff of your choice, including Tru-Trac.

For me the 32 spline inners are fine with an ARB and a Dynatrac NoSpin hub conversion -- the best of most worlds. A 35 spline inner conversion to match my 35 spline outers would be a nice upgrade (1.37" to 1.5" shaft diameter). My truck is a non-CAD type (major weak link already removed by Dodge).

Pull the axle shafts and get actual length numbers. Then check Rigid Axle and Torque King as possible suppliers. Torque King will make custom inner shafts. Might get lucky and find an older model that will fit -- will also need different inner seals due to 1.37" vs 1.5" shaft diameters. Note: pre '94 are 35 spline D60, '94 - 99 are 30 spline D60 and 2000 - 2002 are 32 spline D60, you won't find 35 spline stock after '93. Also throw in that 2001.5 - 2002 added non-CAD to the axle, this is why there is very little info on inner axle conversion.

It is quite common for the ratios not to be identical, such as 4.10/4.09 and 3.54/3.55.

You could also upgrade the inner shafts to 35 spline and install a 35 spline Eaton for a D60. No need to change out the entire axle.

If it is a standard 5V 100 psi unit, this might be worth a try https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-Sensor-or-transmitter-100-psi-5V-for-Oil-Fuel-Air-Water/114160901232?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D0df75f4260b24bf688330474eb372f24%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D223214923228%26itm%3D114160901232%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bDemotion%26brand%3DAnxingo&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 I used one in the past to replace a $150 Autometer sender and it is still working just fine (looked identical to the original sender and used the same plug connection -- 3 wire: ground, 5V+ and sense).

I use Lube Locker self sealing gaskets -- no sealer required and they are reusable (tend to check on a regular basis).

I've got a driver side a-pillar cover -- Agate (dark charcoal) with the speaker hole in it if your interested. The clips and alignment pins are all intact, looks like new. I think it came out of an '01. I'm in Free Missouri (not St. Louis, Kansas City or Springfield).

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I do not think that a 32 spline Dana 60 Truetrac is available (only 30 spline front and 35 spline rear for D60 2nd Gen Rams).

2000 - 2002 should be 32 spline front (1994 - 1999 should be 30 spline) and 35 spline rear. I suggest pulling at least one front inner shaft to confirm the spline count. I prefer ARB air lockers so I can control when they are open or locked. A locked front diff is a pain unless going in a straight line (hard to steer), but will keep you moving and most LS differentials will cause some torque steer.

Weathertech in channel wind deflectors/rain guards -- same set for 16+ years.

I use Sta-Lube EQUA-TORQUE differential friction modifier made by CRC. It meets GM#1052358, Ford #M2C118-A and Chrysler #4318060. It comes in a 4 oz tube and is enough for most diffs.

Has anyone converted a set of sport headlights to HID (D2S or MLED2.0) on the low/high bulb? Is there enough room in the housing? I am wondering as I would like to use the high beam bulb socket for a warning strobe light.

If you notice, there is a small hollow boss by your middle finger tip. My mirrors had a plastic "rivet" with a large flat head there to keep the wires in the channel. I guess they saved $0.01 by not supplying the retainer!