flagmanruss

The guy coming in from the left is the *** hat. Talk about aggressive! He could have cut in behind the object of his anger (in front of the camera guy). Instead he goes in front & cuts another guy off. Glad Russians don't have Second Amendment!

I'm running a Quadzilla XZT+ (unfortunate that they are out of business). I normally run in the +30 mode which gives a bit more pep but is the same as a mileage max. It's mostly timing with counters the smog settings. I'm not towing real heavy but the extra +60 is much nicer on hills where I'd have to down shift before. One can never have "too much power" but needs to control the skinny pedal. The XZT just plugs into harnesses under the hood... no wire taps. It's not a "programmer"... it just takes the readings from the factory sensors & alters them to fool the computer... can not exceed the max OEM fuel, just alters when you get it. I don't know what I'd buy to replace the XZT. There must be something that does the same job.

I can't imagine why anyone would install the brake controller so far to the center of the truck.

On my 01.5, the plug is reached easily, belly down on the driver's floor. The knee panel has very few screws along the under edge & a few pop out ones near the top... pry gently! Since the plug is above the Emergency Brake mechanism it's an easy reach. I have the tow package so not only do I have the plug but a factory extension harness to plug into the truck. All that was needed was to mate to my controller. I mounted my controller on the left side knee panel which was convenient until the MS impaired my left side. I was loath to chop the factory extension harness so I coiled it & put a zip tie on it. Where is your box mounted that it's a problem?

The bled door is electric in the passenger's foot well. Heater Treater only deals with the blend door fix. The air vent outlet is vacuum controlled. If it fails it goes to the default DEFROST. The selector is over the hump near the driver's foot.

They say not to do it but we used a radiant kero heater all night in a tent in primitive camp. We used a 3" tube under the tent flap to bring in fresh air & one through the door flaps behind our bed to vent. We tested CO & never set off the alarm. WE slept in a bed up off the floor. We use new type CO detector in the camp trailer with the furnace on all night & have had no issues. CO is heavier than air. We sleep in a bed up off the floor. Our CO detector is ON THE FLOOR next to our bed. Any build up of CO would start at the floor level so should trigger before we breathe too much. I think these combo CO/Smoke/Fire detectors mounted up high are flawed, code be damned. Heat exchangers can fail. The shop at my ex's... had a oil/hot air furnace with a cracked fire box. Just a steel plate laying on top of the crack. Not used for sleeping, so no issue.

If you have blower running & varying speeds... then the motor & resistor are good. I would suggest dropping the motor in the passenger's foot well. I have found a mouse nest in the "bird cage" blower wheel... I've also found mouse fluff clogging the evap. If you find mouse sign... you should clean the resistor housing where it sticks into the air flow of the heater duct... mouse fluff will hold the heat in & cause the resistor to fail from over heating. It's annoying to get the heater back but only 3 screws. You'll know a lot more after this basic investigation. If mice are getting in, use SS steel wool (pot scrubber) & shove up under/behind the hood hinges where the cowel drain is. The water can still drain but the mice can't get through. It could be a blend door issue but lets find out if there's a clog first.

A lot of shops can't turn my brakes because the center hole is so big. I've had some turned successfully. I also had a brake problem that drove me nuts & ended my relationship with the only close shop. They missed it 3 times... but I don't use my brakes much & then gently. so it seemed alright when I got the truck back but a month later was back in the shop... they "did" the brakes 3X at $200 a pop. Never thought this is the same guy back again. Duhh!! I took it elsewhere & the guy replaced a rear rotor (rear discs 2001.5) that had a slight warp. I think I was so gentle on the brakes that I wasn't engaging the rear regularly. But when it did, it was terrible. Oh, before that I had front discs expand & drag the caliper frame... only thing I noticed was bad MPG. Even towed with it. A state inspection missed it, the dealership couldn't find it. A year later a old school state inspector found it when he lifted the front to test ball joints... and couldn't turn the wheels by hand.

As soon as I put it on, it warmed right up... hit 60 the day I exercised the truck. Hawk eye on the temp gauge but was running empty. It did go up to center & then dropped back slightly on the highway. We'll be back in the freezer tomorrow, cooled off today...

I don't know what the watt rating is but I have an outdoor timer on the side of the house. I've been using it 10 years or more, on & off. It's the kind you insert tabs to trigger the on/off cycles. The only thing I had to do was sand a bit off the HD extension cord so it could physically go into the slightly recessed receptacle. It does not get that cold here, a couple of hours is sufficient. I don't have the truck plugged in right now... it's running the outdoor Christmas lights.

I can't find my earlier posts on this... Every once in a while, the truck would not more than grunt. I'm only using it intermittently every couple of weeks. I have a 1.8A solar trickler on the dash into the always on lighter plug. The thing is, a hour on charge or a jump will fire it right up. The batteries don't seem to take much charging to spin it over. My first thought is dirty connections. We caught a nice warm day yesterday & I cleaned all the battery terminals with wire brushes. They weren't really bad as I have the treated felt washers under them all. I did see a spot on one that just looked a bit oxidized. I found one terminal (Pos on Driver's side)... I backed off the nuts first... and the terminal seemed to come off easier than the others. Hopefully this is it. It's been a couple of years since I had the batteries replaced at Sears & I've not had them apart since. Possible that the best cleaning job wasn't done then. There might be other connections that need service... I suppose the batteries might be failing though these incidents have happened in warm & cool weather. To top it all, the LED has failed in my solar trickler... It's still putting out power, but without a tell-tale... not convenient to verify correct operation. I'm looking at replacing it with a bigger solar charger but they seem to require a diode & regulator... I started it with a 6A charger after an hour, brought it up to the door for me to work on... cleaned the terminals & ;eft a tiny float charger on overnight. It started right up this morning & I took it for a ride to charge up. Passed the test... but intermittents can do that.

A friend rescued me a while back with a jump starter & I decided that I ought to own my own... Sure, probably start more gassers than diesel BUT worst case would be one of these stone cold diesels. So I'm looking for recommendations from those who own them. What to buy, what to avoid? Those who have them... do you carry in a vehicle or store them in a shop or central location? Thanks!

Any of the dry media filters should work fine. Many of the Cummins conversions (drop Cummins into other make vehicles) do use a BHAF (Big Honking Air Filter) directly on the turbo. BHAF is a term we use for any of the large filters that will fit directly on the air intake tube. The oiled media filters... invented for gas engine race cars to keep birds out of the intake... just don't filter well enough for diesels & the oil can cause big problems as well. I wish I'd known before I wasted my money on one... but I got it off before it oiled my turbo or dusted my cylinders. The stock airbox can leak & let dust in but if properly sealed has enough flow to support considerable HP upgrade. I believe the filters with deep pleats from later model trucks will fit the earlier housings fine & have more surface area.

I have the stock air box back in for winter but no cold air tube into the fender. I should have duct taped over the fender hole. Maybe I can still do it. I don't know how hard it is to redirect warmer air in the Cirrus which I'm driving daily... without even figuring my MPGs are sorking big time just on the rate of tank drop. No easy grill block like the Dodge.

Wife went to put my truck back... she slammed the door. Next thing she knows the power seat has gone crazy & run her to the roof! HA! HA! (Truck was stopped.) Don't slam the door! A couple of years ago, I had this same thing happen at 65 boxed in on a crowded highway through the city... Nothing to do but keep driving. The empty oil bottle in the door pocket can fall forward & hit the power seat button. (In my case an unavoidable bad pot hole initiated the sequence... before I replaced shocks, I might add.) I thought I had the oil bottle (TCW3) retained so it couldn't do that. I'll look at it today when she's not here.

We did it yesterday. Only lost one SS lock nut down between the coolers & the bumper.

I've had senders stop working or go intermittent. Diaphragms rupture too. Several times, the senders had oil in them when removed. Great fun. Try the easiest/cheapest things first.

My inclination would be to look for High Pressure SS hydraulic braided lines with the correct fittings. My second choice would be to go back to a hot rod shop who does stainless solid lines.

Just clean all the connections & connect them properly when you put them back!

I used to pull all the batteries from our winter storage boats & we stored them indoors on shelves. Back then there were no battery maintainers with the float function so we used trickle chargers. Each shelf had 2 chargers working & we moved down the row every couple of days. Typically we had 100 batteries to tend. We checked & added distilled water at beginning & end of winter storage. I have also used a trickle charger on my backhoe with a extension suspended (off the ground) from the barn... where I had it on a timer, set to run 1 hour a day. Not perfect but the best I could do. In my truck, which can go a few weeks between uses, I've used a solar trickle sitting on the dash or wedged into the back window... connected to the bottom always on power outlet. These days, I've gone over to maintainers... they're available cheap... and less worry about over charging. I have one larger one & 2 small ones from Harbor Freight, plus a 6/2 trickle charger

She had put the trailer tightly in between an old steel welding table (outside work table) and a low stone wall which had already broken the new Left LED taillight. We pulled it forward by hand 6" and broke the new Right LED taillight. Seems like a lot of my work will have to be done over. She says, I guess it wasn't a good place to put it. (Then why did you put it there! AAARRRGGGHHH!!!) Note: this is Friday the 13th! We've got a serious snow storm coming tomorrow & where she had put it was even worse than where I had it as far as places to push snow. It's unlikely I'll be able to get back to it. I wanted to get my big electric mobility scooter out to move the trailer, but she insisted we must use the ATV... which she has in the furthest barn beyond my reach. Then proceeded to put the chains on while waited for her to come back. I put the hitch over the snow plow on the ATV, hooked on the safety chains & pushed it (much easier to park trailers with front hitches.) I tried to explain it to her but she would listen so I got on the ATV myself & pushed it mostly under the gooseneck of the horse trailer. (I moved boat trailers with front hitches at our boat marina for 17 years... before she & I were married.) I ordered different LED tail lights but again they were cheapest in pairs... cheaper than a single light... so I will have the 2 on the shelf when I get a chance. edit I have figured out she must have pushed the trailer in at an angle which allowed the first light to rake the low stone wall, then she straightened it... which put the edge of the other light behind the steel bench leg. Doomed to failure from the start.

Actually lead wheel weights make decent target bullets for pistol. I had a commercial bullet casting business with Magma machines. http://www.magmaengineering.com/ I made Lyman #2 alloy by adding a small amount of tin & antimony to wheel weight scrap. Rifle caliber bullets should be harder because they are faster. Proper lubrication of cast bullets is essential. Some guys swear by blue lube, others red... both are wax based blends of paraffin & bees wax. Magma used a 50/50 blend in the hot lube machine. Primitive Muzzleloaders commonly used patched bound balls. I am a reenactor. The patch is usually lubed with grease of some kind... animal fat seems to work best. The patch should be between the ball & the bore... so lead never touches metal except in speed shooting & buck & ball loads. If you are doing this, you are advanced & have no need of this discussion. Civil war era you get into hollow base mini-balls & modern projectiles which need to be lubed (messy). I don't shoot inlines & have no knowledge of their loadings.

My tail pipe rusted out & fubally disconnected from the muffler. I removed it before it could damage anything else. I ran with just the muffler... sooted up the whole underside of the truck... stock motor. Then the rear end of the muffler can fell out. I bought an all SS turbo back kit off ebay. Worked fine. I had to heat a few of the welded on supports to get proper fit. The 'muffler' is a glass pack straight through can. It sounded good running empty & the wife wore ear plugs towing heavy (camper). I put a FTE swirl resonator in as far forward as I could get it. Not quiet but much more livable. It would have been less work to put the resonator in at original installation. There are 2 grades of SS exhaust. The more expensive takes a better polish (I could care less). The less expensive (most of mine except the straight through muffler & tip) are just as rust resistant. I will never have to replace the system again.

I know I didn't get back to screw down the deck boards... it's a really struggle to accomplish anything (I'm typing with one hand, must do about everything one hand... ) I'm unhappy about this. I really wanted to have something nice for a change. Trying to do this keeping the costs down is not easy.